The same thing will happen where ever the wire becomes fatigued, at any hinge point. If your window suddenly stops operating, or a speaker stops working, there is a better chance of finding a broken wire at a hinge point, than a failed component. It will also save you considerable pain, messing around inside a door.

It happened more frequently on the older high line Jags, because Ford hadn't taught Jaguar the use of relays yet, and smaller lower amperage motors were not yet being used.

I remember the size of the cables going from a window switch, in an XJS, and it surprised me, because the Audi's of the same vintage had wires a third of the size. The Germans were relay monsters, and had them hidden all over their cars, so there is overkill on this subject also........Nice post......Mike

 

I had the same problem with the trunk lid switch but noticed something else! The light for the license plate was not working. Guess what? That wire is in the same wire bundle (trunk lead link harness) as the trunk lid button. I had to solder both of them during the fix. Everything works great....right now....!

 

Thanks. Fixed my boot lid release on my XF - 2 wires were broken and another 3 needed fixing

 

Thanks - Fixed my XF 2.7 in UK - 1 cable inside the flexible conduit that goes through from the boot lid to the car was broken - just threaded a new cable through and snipped off the cable each end where it joins the plugs and hoorah - it fixed 2 things at once, my boot switch and my number plate lights - must have been an earth cable perhaps? Very happy with this simple repair. Thanks to all who contributed.

 

On lines of what you folks are talking about I am going through the same issue with my XF 2010, the physical key ( inside the fob) is able to open the trunk however the Fob by itself is not- i do not even get the beep sound, nor does the button left below of my steering wheel open the trunk, do you think my car could also be having a wiring issue or is it a fuse gone bad? does anyone know how to check the fuse for this problem?
thanks in advance for your help

 

Hi,
On mine the button on the boot stopped working but the fob button and internal release button worked, just not the one on the boot itself. That said, if the doors are opening ok with the central locking then it likely is a similar problem, just a different wire to mine that has broken as it has to receive its power from the same clump of wires. I don't believe it has a separate fuse from the rest of the central lock system, so if thats working then investigate power received at the lock. Fortunately its all a very simple task, if its that clump of wires..

 

The challenge is that since the car does not recognize the truck as closed it does not let me lock the car and i have to be very careful of parking in public parking lots

 

Appears to be a sharp edge inside the boot frame where the wires pass that eventually shears these wires in 2 after a while of slamming the trunk. After you repair the break, not a bad idea to pad that wire section with plenty of electrical tape or whatever you think best before pulling the harness back inside the boot frame. Not something you can get to inside to file down very easily. Most trunks need slamming a little, but sure not on the XK's. Caught my wife slamming mine after she took out her packages. Hard habit to break.

 

I have the same problem as Jhaguar. Everything works except the button on the trunk. I think I will start tracing from there.

 

Opened the truck today, at this point in time trunk lid switch, the fob button and internal release button are the once not working the only way to open the truck is to use the Physical key inside the fob. working on the problem still

 

It was the same problem, the sharp edge had cut the wire , fixed it finallly thanks

 

Didn't see this thread until now. Had the wiring problem several months back. Finally located the break, fixed it, and added a thick, sacrificial layer of adhesive heat shrink. Unfortunately, the rear has new struts, and closing the boot/trunk now requires substantial commitment/velocity. My wife now can barely close it. Unclear if she would drive with it open.

 

ALL over this... Perfect timing

 

Fantastic thread, same problem here and repaired nicely!

 

Thanks everyone for the pictures and the description of the problem. This was my exact problem as well (2 broken wires within the harness). Easy remove the harness from the car, and fix it on the bench with a soldering iron. I added a little extra wire to each run (maybe it won't make a difference). However, now the 3rd brake light is working as normal. Greatly appreciate the tips regarding where to look. Thanks everyone.