Do I need to fix it, if it's not broke.

I just bought my 2001 XK8 and the Jaguar Dealer sugested that I change the hydraulic fluid for the converible top. The top works fine. I bought the hydraulic fluid, but should I really change it? Why not wait till it stops working? It probably has never been changed. Ron

 

There was an early and different hydraulic fluid used that evaporated and was recommended to change. The attached TSB provides the details of that recommendation. The conversion to the latest fluid is based on a '99 VIN number so you need to verify that. You also need to educate yourself on the top latch high pressure issue. Sooner or later you will have a hose failure at the top latch resulting in the 'green shower'. I have had two XK8's and the hoses were replaced a total of 4 times so replacing the hoses do not solve the problem.

There are two solutions, neither created by Jaguar, in fact, Jaguar never fixed the problem until the '07 complete redesign.

See the following links for discussions on both:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=27132

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=42013

And YES, you need to fix it before it breaks!

 

Sorry, here is the TSB:

 

One known cause of line rupture is the fluid turning to mush; probably due to excessive heat in the headliner cavities. Given the fact the system is self bleeding, and removing the pump housing and reservoir is not that difficult; I would proceed with draining and refilling as a precautionary exercise. AFAIK both the Pentosin CHF 11S and the FEBI 6161 are acceptable refills. Check Gus's page on this project.

 

Ron,
Chances are that the fluid in your system is good. You can check this by going to your trunk and gain access to the pump and it is located above the C/D and GPS systems on the right. If the color of the fluid is Green then it should be OK if not you can use my procedure on my page to change the fluid, it is less intrusive. http://www.gusglikas.com/AutoRepairH...lOperation.htm The additional links are not to frighten you but to make you aware of the many opportunities. I hope this helps!

http://www.gusglikas.com/RoofHoseReplacement.htm
http://www.gusglikas.com/AutoRepairNewHydHose.htm
http://www.gusglikas.com/AutoRepairJ...esRelValve.htm
http://www.gusglikas.com/AutoRepairHydHose.htm
http://www.gusglikas.com/AutoRepairHydFluid.htm

 

I just had mine changed. It was @ $65. PM can't hurt.

 

You should also look into the pressure reduction valve...an easy install. There is a thread on it here at the forum

 

Hi Test Point, Thanks so much to you and Gus. Today, I changed the Hydraulic Fluid and installed the relief valve. Gus's instructions were great, but you do need to turn the manual to the closed position. The instructions did not say to do it. When I tried it after the install, it did not work. Then I looked at it and I said that I never closed the manual valve. NO LEAKS and the top operations is fine. I doesn't seem any slower. I am so glad to operate at a lower pressure. Hope that I NEVER have a leak like you did....... Ron Gerst

 

Gus, Thanks so much. Your oustanding links walked me right through it. I am so glad that I installed the relief valve and changed the Hydraulic Fluid. Since the pump was out, it was easy to drain the old fluid. After I checked for leaks and operated the top several times, I changed the fluid again. Old fluid looked pretty good. Top operates fine and doesn't seem any slower. It is nice to know that I am operating at a lower pressure to save those hoses. Just a note, your instructions need to add turning the manual valve closed at the end, but it didn't take me long to figure it out.

Again Gus, I would not have done it, if it wasn't for you. Thanks for all your time and hard work. Ron Gerst