After a recent bout with P0037, I replaced the downstream O2 sensor, passenger side. I also did the "hard reset" and an OBD reset (TorquePRO, bluetooth ELM327, usual).

Of course, this reset trips all the monitors to re-test everything. After a few trips back and forth to work, all the monitors eventually cleared (including O2 sensors), except "Components". I read "components" as being some form of sanity check on the various sensors that contribute to the engine management function, like coolant temp, and air flow.

Separately, I have built a quick screen in TorquePRO with the more important parameters like fuel trims, fuel pressure, etc. One of them is intake air temperature. Somehow, for the last few weeks, the reading has been consistently high, on the order of 10 to 15 def F above what the A/C ambient temperature reads. I realize none of those are lab-quality sensors, but the ambient temp seems to be a good match for the actual temp, as per the weather report. FWIW, I have the factory air box, nothing fancy.

So, I removed this sensor from its recess at the end of the intake tube, and cleaned it with the CRC air flow meter spray from the parts store. Did not seem unusually dirty, but cleaning it seem to make the element a bit more shiny.

Question: Should the intake air temp really be that far off? Is this possibly the source of this "Components" monitor not finishing? I guess I could throw a new air flow meter and see what happens, seems to have some cheap ones available on eBay...

 

Intake air temp should be very close to ambient when the car is started cold. After warm-up in will normally be few degrees higher due to engine heating effects due to sensor placement in the air-mass meter.

 

Well, "Components" monitor finally cleared, P1000 was replaced with P1111, and all is seemingly OK. I am still not terribly happy about the air temperature reading being so far off, so I ordered a replacement IAT/Air Flow meter. It seems like these sensors are used "everywhere", so reman units are available for downright cheap on eBay. I'll post an update.

 

If you do a repair in future just don't clear the codes. They self-clear AND that leaves the monitors set.

 

My original problem was with the heater circuit of an O2 sensor. I was under the impression that in order to force the re-calibration for a new O2 sensor, a reset was required. I am guessing that if I did not, the heater part would have probably reset just fine, but the computer would have possibly relied on the calibration of the old/original sensor. All worked out in the end.

 

No, not required.