Back on Jan 14th jnportchello launched a thread on this topic. It quickly grew to 24 posts so I'm doing a follow up as a new thread for brevity.

Issue: drivers door sags.

Findings: door must be nearly closed to see the movement.
No room to insert endoscope.
When door opens all the way I could see some small movement on the door travel limiter (center hinge like item). This obviously has no impact as it is not weight bearing.
As mentioned in previous post I hoped to find a loose bolt to tighten - no luck

Yesterday I thought to myself "why not look at the door gap shift as I close the door the last centimeter and its forced into proper alignment." Gave it a test. Sure enough the forward gap (hinge side of door) clearly showed the biggest change at the top.

Thinking that this tells me the issue is with the upper hinge, I opened the door and felt around it. Nothing! I tried pushing the door open to the stop thinking that stress would highlight any problem. Once again - nothing.

Well I figured I might as well try the same test on the bottom hinge. As soon as I did the gentle open to the stop test, it showed. There is a small vertical tear in the metal supporting lower door hinge on the side closest to the driver.

I can't imagine why it took me so long to figure this test out, but it's so darn simple I figured I would share it.

Not what I wanted to find for sure. I know where my mind will point so let me ask and clear this idea out:

Would you agree that there is pretty much zero chance that epoxy and a rivited backing plate could mend this? Just trying to save $$$ if I could. The only other option will be is for me to find someone to weld it like several of us have done.

If I could take the door off myself (disconnect wire harness, remove door card, leave window in place) what should one expect a reasonable welding charge would be?

BTW, it's ok to leave window in right?

Thanks for your advice. I hope this short circuits the troubleshooting for the next guy.

John