Drivers Side Window stuck half-way up/down
With Ignition on II..
With the Hood UP.... Operated passenger window... works ok. both up/down.
Drivers Side Window went up 'half-way' and stopped.
No up or down using the switch.
Tried using ignition key in the door to raise window... no good.
Fuse checked ok.
Tried with ignition ON and OFF.
Battery OK.
What to check next...?
With the Hood UP.... Operated passenger window... works ok. both up/down.
Drivers Side Window went up 'half-way' and stopped.
No up or down using the switch.
Tried using ignition key in the door to raise window... no good.
Fuse checked ok.
Tried with ignition ON and OFF.
Battery OK.
What to check next...?
A, great list of observations.
1. Assuming window is NOT cockeyed:
You try the switch. Any noise from window motor or regulator at all?
Yes = something jams it look at horizontal window track.
No = need to test for 12volts at motor connection.
Either was the door card is coming off. Ever done it B4? 20 minute easy job 1st time 7 minute job each time after that.
Door card off, unplug motor connector. Check for 12volts.
Yes = bad regulator (cheap on eBay, much easier to install than you think)
No = find the open (as I recall window fuse isn't Isolated to window only - everything else works right?)
Ask 4 help if needed.
John
1. Assuming window is NOT cockeyed:
You try the switch. Any noise from window motor or regulator at all?
Yes = something jams it look at horizontal window track.
No = need to test for 12volts at motor connection.
Either was the door card is coming off. Ever done it B4? 20 minute easy job 1st time 7 minute job each time after that.
Door card off, unplug motor connector. Check for 12volts.
Yes = bad regulator (cheap on eBay, much easier to install than you think)
No = find the open (as I recall window fuse isn't Isolated to window only - everything else works right?)
Ask 4 help if needed.
John
A, great list of observations.
1. Assuming window is NOT cockeyed:
You try the switch. Any noise from window motor or regulator at all?
Yes = something jams it look at horizontal window track.
No = need to test for 12volts at motor connection.
Either was the door card is coming off. Ever done it B4? 20 minute easy job 1st time 7 minute job each time after that.
Door card off, unplug motor connector. Check for 12volts.
Yes = bad regulator (cheap on eBay, much easier to install than you think)
No = find the open (as I recall window fuse isn't Isolated to window only - everything else works right?)
Ask 4 help if needed.
John
1. Assuming window is NOT cockeyed:
You try the switch. Any noise from window motor or regulator at all?
Yes = something jams it look at horizontal window track.
No = need to test for 12volts at motor connection.
Either was the door card is coming off. Ever done it B4? 20 minute easy job 1st time 7 minute job each time after that.
Door card off, unplug motor connector. Check for 12volts.
Yes = bad regulator (cheap on eBay, much easier to install than you think)
No = find the open (as I recall window fuse isn't Isolated to window only - everything else works right?)
Ask 4 help if needed.
John
Nothing appears to be out-of-alignment!
Door Card... easy to take off... all ok so far....
Tried the switch buttons again...
Passenger window operates ok.
Drivers side... no movement..... and NO sound heard from switch operation.
ALL the sealing of items to the inner door panel remain 'stuck' in place.
Peel back at bottom reveals inner part of door frame and motor/mechanism sealed in plastic...
Looks as new....
As I have no movement and no sound.... can I assume that the motor is faulty and will require replacement...?
I have a local Jaguar specialist that I can take car to....
Is this now the best course of action...?
A,
First question is power getting to the motor? Can you get to the plastic wire connector / connection that sends 12volts to the motor?
Pick a ground spot for probe 2 and this test.
I couldn't tell if you took door card off or just bent it back? Lets assume you removed door card as you should. Unplug window motor connector. Grab your volt meter, set to DC Voltage. Ignition on, test your ground connection.
Open the fuse box on side of dashboard. Since ignition is on all fuses are hot. Touch one probe to a metal part of a fuse. Other probe to your chosen ground point. 12volts yes? Ok use that as ground for this test. No? Find a good ground.
one probe in the connector, other probe in or against your ground spot..
Operate drivers window up, then down buttons. Any 12volt reading?
No? Probe other wire in the connector (i forget how many wires in that connector). No voltage again? Press buttons repeat test.
Bottom line 12volts reading from the switch says regulator motor is bad. Its sold as a unit, so new regulator needed.
Friend if you could take the door card off, swapping the new regulator in isxwell within your ability! I've posted step by step instructions on here.
I bought a replacement regulator on ebay. Not very expensive at all. Knowing me I posted the price in that instructions post, but far easier to just Google "eBay 2003 jaguar drivers window regulator.
Your call but I bet you can do the job for $45.00 (or whatever the eBay price is). I imagine a new regulator will cost a few hundred dollars, plus at least an hour time for the tech!
I'll try to find a link to my post for you.
John
First question is power getting to the motor? Can you get to the plastic wire connector / connection that sends 12volts to the motor?
Pick a ground spot for probe 2 and this test.
I couldn't tell if you took door card off or just bent it back? Lets assume you removed door card as you should. Unplug window motor connector. Grab your volt meter, set to DC Voltage. Ignition on, test your ground connection.
Open the fuse box on side of dashboard. Since ignition is on all fuses are hot. Touch one probe to a metal part of a fuse. Other probe to your chosen ground point. 12volts yes? Ok use that as ground for this test. No? Find a good ground.
one probe in the connector, other probe in or against your ground spot..
Operate drivers window up, then down buttons. Any 12volt reading?
No? Probe other wire in the connector (i forget how many wires in that connector). No voltage again? Press buttons repeat test.
Bottom line 12volts reading from the switch says regulator motor is bad. Its sold as a unit, so new regulator needed.
Friend if you could take the door card off, swapping the new regulator in isxwell within your ability! I've posted step by step instructions on here.
I bought a replacement regulator on ebay. Not very expensive at all. Knowing me I posted the price in that instructions post, but far easier to just Google "eBay 2003 jaguar drivers window regulator.
Your call but I bet you can do the job for $45.00 (or whatever the eBay price is). I imagine a new regulator will cost a few hundred dollars, plus at least an hour time for the tech!
I'll try to find a link to my post for you.
John
Well no price but here you go:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ight=Regulator
In that post there's a link to more instructions.
John
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ight=Regulator
In that post there's a link to more instructions.
John
A,
First question is power getting to the motor? Can you get to the plastic wire connector / connection that sends 12volts to the motor?
Pick a ground spot for probe 2 and this test.
I couldn't tell if you took door card off or just bent it back? Lets assume you removed door card as you should. Unplug window motor connector. Grab your volt meter, set to DC Voltage. Ignition on, test your ground connection.
Open the fuse box on side of dashboard. Since ignition is on all fuses are hot. Touch one probe to a metal part of a fuse. Other probe to your chosen ground point. 12volts yes? Ok use that as ground for this test. No? Find a good ground.
one probe in the connector, other probe in or against your ground spot..
Operate drivers window up, then down buttons. Any 12volt reading?
No? Probe other wire in the connector (i forget how many wires in that connector). No voltage again? Press buttons repeat test.
Bottom line 12volts reading from the switch says regulator motor is bad. Its sold as a unit, so new regulator needed.
Friend if you could take the door card off, swapping the new regulator in isxwell within your ability! I've posted step by step instructions on here.
I bought a replacement regulator on ebay. Not very expensive at all. Knowing me I posted the price in that instructions post, but far easier to just Google "eBay 2003 jaguar drivers window regulator.
Your call but I bet you can do the job for $45.00 (or whatever the eBay price is). I imagine a new regulator will cost a few hundred dollars, plus at least an hour time for the tech!
I'll try to find a link to my post for you.
John
First question is power getting to the motor? Can you get to the plastic wire connector / connection that sends 12volts to the motor?
Pick a ground spot for probe 2 and this test.
I couldn't tell if you took door card off or just bent it back? Lets assume you removed door card as you should. Unplug window motor connector. Grab your volt meter, set to DC Voltage. Ignition on, test your ground connection.
Open the fuse box on side of dashboard. Since ignition is on all fuses are hot. Touch one probe to a metal part of a fuse. Other probe to your chosen ground point. 12volts yes? Ok use that as ground for this test. No? Find a good ground.
one probe in the connector, other probe in or against your ground spot..
Operate drivers window up, then down buttons. Any 12volt reading?
No? Probe other wire in the connector (i forget how many wires in that connector). No voltage again? Press buttons repeat test.
Bottom line 12volts reading from the switch says regulator motor is bad. Its sold as a unit, so new regulator needed.
Friend if you could take the door card off, swapping the new regulator in isxwell within your ability! I've posted step by step instructions on here.
I bought a replacement regulator on ebay. Not very expensive at all. Knowing me I posted the price in that instructions post, but far easier to just Google "eBay 2003 jaguar drivers window regulator.
Your call but I bet you can do the job for $45.00 (or whatever the eBay price is). I imagine a new regulator will cost a few hundred dollars, plus at least an hour time for the tech!
I'll try to find a link to my post for you.
John
A. to the small triangle speaker cover
B. to the Courtesy Light
C. to the switches that operate the windows
With a fully charged battery...
The passenger window works ok.
The drivers window sits in the mid-position.
When I press the r/hand switch to operate the drivers side window,,, there is no clicks or sound whatsoever.
With the Door Card removed I am faced with a black 'sticky' cover covering the inside of the door.
When peeled back I can see the door motor and assembly which is encased in a clear plastic cover.... looks original.
My question:
'unplug windows motor connector''... where is this connector located.... so I can test. and is there any on-line instructions for taking out and testing/replacing the motor.....
Help is much appreciated....
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Every time one of my windows misbehave, I have found the following works.
1. Both doors closed / Engine running
2. Raise all windows as far as they will go
3. Cycle the top all the way down
4. Cycle the top to closed position holding the switch in place until top and windows stop moving
No answer as to why this works, but it does
PS On both cars 1998 XK8 Conv
and 2001 XK8 conv
Good luck.
1. Both doors closed / Engine running
2. Raise all windows as far as they will go
3. Cycle the top all the way down
4. Cycle the top to closed position holding the switch in place until top and windows stop moving
No answer as to why this works, but it does
PS On both cars 1998 XK8 Conv
and 2001 XK8 conv
Good luck.
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