Good rule of thumb is to always use put the cover on if you have the time and are able to (obviously at a stoplight is not a good time to do the deed).

Putting the cover on keeps the fabric from flapping, turbulence sometimes causes the little fasteners to pull out of the frame, but mainly, the cover keeps dirt from getting on the fabric which collects and shows dust and contaminants very easily. Its safe to drive it w/o it, however.

 

up to 25 mph I don't put it on. upwards it is advisable.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RWpU...layer_embedded

 

good one beav!

 

I love the idea, I read the whole thread end-to-end and was immensely entertained. Now, I want to know -- can I get one for my 2010 XKR convertible?

 

Glad you enjoyed the thread....it is my favorite also .

Alas, no, I have not developed one for post-2006 models. The system was extensvely redesigned for 2007 and would need to work on an entirely different principle.

I have had perhaps a dozen requests to date for the later model version. I do plan to develop it at some point, but I cannot say definitively when. Check my website (below) from time to time for possible updates.

 

Finally got mine installed today, it's only been sitting in my toolbox since May.



Followed the instructions and everything went as described with no problems.
Thanks Steve!

 

Steve's Holiday Sale pushed me over the edge and I purchased the kit right away. Last week I reserved an afternoon for the install. Prepped the work area and put beer in the fridge in preparation for a victory celebration in the evening.

All was going well with just the usual Jaguar demons like broken door card fasteners and a difficult to replace door control module (finally removed the connectors to re-insert it in the door then reattached the connectors).

All the posi-taps went on just fine, I routed the cables into the fender, removed the wheel well liner and discovered I was missing the fog-lamp access panel (ordered) as well as a thin spot wearing through the liner from tire rubbing (that's another thread).

Got the cable routed into the engine bay and started to remove the fuse box power cable. People, if that nut is tight, do not, I repeat do not, turn the wrench harder! See the photo for the result.

Project and Jag down for a week while replacement part finds its way here from Texas via eBay. Had to manually put the top up as I work in a carport - I suppose that was good practice for a real emergency.

Fuse box arrived Wednesday PM, installed box and went back to work Thursday AM. Project is now complete, and I love standing back and watching it work! Time for that beer.

Only other note is to be extra careful and use lots of light when picking out colored wires that are "close". I found I had attached Steve's blue with slate stripe to my blue with white stripe wire. Steve's support was spot-on when I told him the symptoms. Once I corrected that everything worked.

 

It is unfortunate that the fuesbox cracked like that. After over 100 remote top installations, as far as I know, this is the first occurance of this. I am guessing that it was way overtightened at the factory or by a mechanic at some point. It is an 8mm stud, so it should be torqued to about 23 Nm. Therefore I think that no more than 40 Nm should be required to release it, allowing for some tolerance and aging. The plastic mounting normally has no trouble handling this amount of torque.

As a precaution, I am going to add a recommendation to the instructions to spray the fusebox nut with WD-40 or equivalent at the start of work. This will give about an hour or so at least for it to soak before it is necessary to remove it. Hopefully that will minimize the chances of this happenning again.

Thanks for your feedback and I am glad you got it resolved and are up and running!

Steve

 

A belated report of my installation. Like the RealGauge, it went in very smoothly and the instructions are very clear to remove all doubt in what to do or when to do it. Like Beg3Yrs, I too had problems with the fuse box. My problem was much more benign - even after following the instructions to soak the latch, when I pulled on it it came apart in my hand, leaving a fragment firmly lodged into the slot preventing my removal of the box to complete the installation. With Dremel tool in hand, I cut the remaining latch pin out of the box, and then fashioned a replacement out of a stray piece of plexiglass I had laying about.

Having the remote top really is the best mod you can make to the car. Even my wife was impressed, and thought the cost was worthwhile - and that kind of response doesn't come often!

Steve

 

The used replacement fusebox was fully populated with fuses and relays. I've got lots of spares now.

 

Love this mod, and the install was great. Had some panel clip breakage, but just used epoxy and the door is fine. Got some replacement x-mas tree plugs and used about 1/2 of them, reusing some of the original (but glad I had some new ones as needed). I took the opportunity to secure a part of the panel that was pushing out and also the window adjustments (found elsewhere on the site). It's been months and the door operates better than when I started. Another bonus was that I was having intermittent error codes on the door control unit, and during this install found the short in a bent connector going to the door! Very happy I did this one.

 

I just want to thank you all for posting your experiences with the remote top mod! I am glad I have been able to share the 'man, how cool is this!!! ' moment that I had when I built the first one with so many other owners.

I still have a few left in stock at the $169.95 price this month (w/free shipping) before the price goes back up in January.