My first attempt at this, hope I am doing it right. Briefly, I came from UK. to US. in 1981 as a British Car Tech. at a Jaguar/British/Fiat/Subaru Dealership in San Diego. did all Jag. schools, Became ASE Master Tech. got Cal Smog License, I was the highest earning Tech. with fewest comebacks for a few years. I then managed a kit car company, that produced a Ferrari Daytona Kit. Over the years I have worked on almost every make of car in the world. As well as a Russian Tank, boats, antique and modern motor cycles, commercial vehicles, and for the last 15 years, 25 to 60 year old double decker buses all over the US. and Canada. The thing most of these vehicles had in common was no wiring diagrams, no manuals, and there were no parts available. Being an English cheap skate, I have always tried to make, modify or repair parts, make my own tools, I refuse to buy over priced parts like "brake switches" unless absolutely necessary. I was about to retire 5 years ago when my Ticker decided to go into "limp home mode", I had Stents fitted, 3 days later I was having a heart attack, drove my self to the Hospital, the next day had a Quad Bypass. went home after 5 days, 5 days later my chest wound burst open, and leaked juice's within 1 hour I had a pair of large *****. I drove myself to the hospital again, next day I was opened up again and my Sternum was removed when I returned a few days later, I had 8 tubes hooked up to vacuum pumps sucking the poison out. I had a Hospital acquired, antibiotic resistant staph infection, which took 2 bags of antibiotics dripped in every day for a month to get rid of it at a cost of several million dollars. My ticker is so week that last August I had a Pace Maker Defibrillator fitted. The reason I have explained this to explain why I have to use more brain than brawn now.
After my orange safe mode warning started coming on, no cruise control, and cruise switch red light out, I started reading every thing I could find on the subject. The brake lights and gear selector solenoid were working fine, so the fault was probably the cruise switch was always open. After reading what a pain it is to refit the switch, (6 hours and a divorce in 1 case) I would attack the task from outside the box. Before I removed the switch, I drove around to purchase some Micro Switches to replace the original ones, as there was no way I was going to buy a new switch, Problem was I did not know the switch size, I tried Radio Shack, Fry's, Grainger and a few others, the problem here is, they all list dozens of switches, but they don't stock any, because they have to be ordered on line. I purchased 6 switches from a surplus store for $6.00. I had already repaired the micro switch in the trunk latch for the trunk lamps, but it had quit again, so I would need one there. My XK8 is a 1999 with 82,000 miles. I have had the car for 1 year, and have only put 2367 miles on it, during this time, the Tunes (Harmon Cardon Deluxe) have done their thing, display and Antenna work but no Tunes. door mirrors only up and out. drivers seat switches broken, memory stopped working, steering wheel not moving when key removed. Both door windows doing every thing but the right thing. Safe mode+ code for intake air temp sender, had to replace MAF sensor, Jag price, $300? but sensor same as Subaru etc. paid $20 on E Bay. Another fault comes and goes, after locking car with key fob I get a strange beep, on a couple of occasions after a few minutes the alarm horn goes of. I have to go back to the car to turn alarm off, and find the trunk is unlocked and the gas flap is open. on other occasions I have found the trunk unlocked, and the gas cap open,????
Back to the brake switch, before undoing the 2 x 8 mil nuts holding the switch, I drilled a 1/8 th. inch hole in line with and 1/2 way between the 2 nuts, I drilled through the car body and through the switch bracket,



Drilling the 1/8 th. inch hole 1/2 way between the nuts.

then remove the 2 nuts, this is where it got interesting for me. I used to lay on my back with my head way under the dash, and suck up the pain, (no more), the worst was to try to press the brake pedal, to release the switch, and to get both hands on the plug and socket, my defibrillator in my chest was being pushed into the bottom of the steering wheel.



2 ft. LENGTH OF HOUSE ELECTRICAL WIRE PUSHED THROUGH DRILLED HOLE INTO CAR

The wire should have landed on the carpet, behind brake pedal, take the switch to the wire, push wire through hole in bracket, bend the end of wire so it does not go back through hole. press and hold brake pedal down with stick, (it will be easier with engine running), I pushed switch up as high as I could behind the pedal, then went outside and pulled on wire, the end of the 2 threaded studs were in sight, and I only had to jiggle the wire a bit and the studs came through their holes, have the nuts ready to screw on.
The first time I did this, and connected the wiring, I found the brake lights were on all of the time, also the wire I used was stainless, and much to stiff. The 2nd time I used Electrical Wire. This time the brake lights again stayed on, this time I found that if I forced the brake pedal up by hand the brake lights would go of, with the ignition on listening to the movement of the gear selector solenoid was easier. I tried loosening the switch nuts, and moving the switch did not help. I finally placed a wooden stick on the front edge of the switch bracket, and hit it with a hammer once, moving the switch forward slightly, this did the trick, perfect. I checked the micro switches when the assembly was out, both switches were fine. I think in my case the Nylon ratchet teeth were worn,


1/8th hole drilled in switch bracket

An idea for mounting larger switches on side of switch bracket, leaving original switch assembly off.




Possible way of mounting switches, on switch btacket