Reverend -- You are absolutely correct, all he had to say was that they were asymmetrical, or that they had to be mounted the same way!!! Instead he just looked down his nose, over his bifocals and just said it couldn't be done...

And they 'owe' me a detail on my next return

 

The 97Y, etc. represents the Load Index (97) and Speed Rating (Y) - assuring that the tire is appropriate for the weight and dynamics of the car and the manufacturers design limit for the tire.

Good explanation is here:

Tire code - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

 

That seems small, but it appears to be a typical setting. Mine has even more negative camber than yours, and I've been able to keep the tread wear almost completely uniform over the tread section with an adjustment in air pressure.

0.10 and 0.15 seem to be reasonable.

I just checked my alignment by the jag dealer last month, my rear numbers are as follows:

Camber
.... Initial ......... Final ......... Spec Range
L : -1.0 .......... -1.0 ......... -0.9 to -0.1
R : -1.0 .......... -1.2 ......... -0.9 to -0.1

Toe
L : 0.35 .......... 0.15 ......... 0.10 to 0.25
R : 0.05 .......... 0.15 ......... 0.10 to 0.25

My fronts were setup like this

Camber
.... Initial ......... Final ......... Spec Range
L : -0.8 .......... -0.8 ......... -1.2 to -0.2
R : -1.1 .......... -1.1 ......... -1.3 to -0.3

Toe
L : 0.30 .......... 0.15 ......... 0.05 to 0.20
R : 0.35 .......... 0.15 ......... 0.05 to 0.20

Caster
L : 6.1
R : 5.7 <- I'm trying to get this caster a bit higher, getting it farther forward so it is a couple tenths greater than the left side; dealer won't adjust this as part of the alignment, only measure it. Remember, my original shim arrangement on the upper wishbone was lost when I did the front shock replacement myself.

That would eventually start to affect the inside edge, maybe some feathering observed? Was it pulling a bit right? If not, the caster may have helped correct the tendency for the toe-out to pull it right.

 

Matt, whoever did your alignment made the camber on the right rear worse. and they didn't bring either wheel to within spec. What's the deal with that?

And you can adjust the shim yourself. Just take one of the thick shims and move it from the back of the wishbone to the front. That will shift the entire wishbone back slightly and increase your caster. I don't think caster is going to affect your tire wear, though. Increasing the caster is just going to make the car track straighter down the highway. It will take slightly more effort to initiate a turn.

 

I dunno about the rear camber 'slip', my guess it wasn't touched due to it being 'in spec', unless you specifically ask...but by the time you find out, its already off the rack and finished. maybe the rear toe adjustment altered the camber just a hair, but again...still in spec, so nothing was done?

This alignment was done AFTER I found my indy shop had installed the rear spring hat on top of a nearby hose or wiring loom. I freed it myself and re-tightened the hat - that was the reason behind the initial toe difference, probably camber affected too. I had it aligned with the jacked up rear shock hat about 3 weeks prior to this one.

 

I'm beginning to think these may be OEM tires? Is there a date code somewhere?

I know they would now be 11 yrs old, but it's only got 42k miles. Maybe a second set? If so, the toe in to the extremes may have just caused the tire wear?