The original nuts would not go on my replacement mounts either. Between that and the paint, sheared studs was the result.

Like you, I tried another nut I had in my spares and it went on fine. A little late to help, but it fit fine.

 

That is a bit of bad luck. 8mm should be OK at 30NM. Obviously not up to spec, they probably used steel that is too soft or not heat treated to meet the right spec.

 

What supplier/brand?

Don't suppose they used SAE thread and didn't bother including either nuts or
a notice of the change?

Even so, you should be able to crossthread and still reach 30NM without
snapping the thing. So weak steel on top of bad thread.

 

I know nothing about structural engineering but would have thought these would be different forces -
With the nut cross-threaded it would be 30NM purely rotational rather than being translated into a pulling force (putting the stud under tension).

 

Because of the problems with the Jag nuts I didn't use any of them, instead I used my own stock of nyloc nut which screwed on no problem, till the shear.


Here are the two studs.



I have decided to reuse the top plate form the old bushes for the time being.


I drilled out the 3 pop rivets. the internal bush parts actually look in good condition.



Paint stripper





Citric acid for the next 24 hours.







I keep it hot with a cup water boiler, it tops out at about 65 degC

 

I see you have the same weights as me!
You probably don't need them now with all that physical work on the Jag

 

If the nut was locked, yes it would be rotational. You can shear a bolt with purely rotational force.

For example, removing a rusted nut can shear the bolt and no additional tension is being applied.

Still interested in knowing the brand since more than one person has managed this trick.

 

I bought them at this distributor David Manners Ltd - Jaguar Parts, Daimler parts, genuine Jaguar parts, OEM parts and reproduction parts from David Manners Ltd


The item had no manufacturer info on the packaging but was listed as an aftermarket part.


Having reported the problem they have done the responsible thing and removed the item from sale. I have a call with them later today.

 

I'm waiting to see the results of the citric acid bath rust remover.
A friend gave me some supposedly high power rust remover that is used in the aviation industry - I painted it on tonight and will check it again tomorrow but as it's gone cold now I'm not expecting too much.

 

Top mount before and after.





The top plates are done, I took the other parts out and gave them a bit of a wire brush to get rid of some more of the paint and popped them back in for a few more hours.





The citric acid is great for small parts but useless on the chassis.

 

I'm pleased with that, a little bit of effort and patience goes a long way.

 

Truly amazing results - the stuff I am using turns the rust black!
Where do you get the citric acid powder from and what is the water/powder ratio?

 

Its about Ģ10 for 4kg here Citric Acid


I usually use about 1kg to a bucket, but do not really measure it out carefully, just done by eye. You have got to keep it hot to work well though.

 

Well I am now getting fast at this, 2 hours 30 mins to jack the car, remove the wheel liner ......then pull out the shock, rebuild the top mount, and refit to the shock and get it all fitted back on the car.


I drilled out the pop rivets from the mount with the sheared stud to get the new foam rubber parts out then fitted them to the refurbished mount.





I needed the G clamps to get it compressed to the point where I could pop rivet it back together.





Sealed up.

 

With this construction you will have problems with ride
height.

 

What is the point of this post? Are you saying it will be too high or too low?


My previous ride height was ~413mm at the front and I wanted it to be less than the target spec of 401 but within the +/- 15mm variation of the target height of 401mm.


My ride height is now 395mm, exactly where I wanted it.

 

[QUOTE=RaceDiagnostics;1095829]What is the point of this post? Are you saying it will be too high or too low?


My previous ride height was ~413mm at the front and I wanted it to be less than the target spec of 401 but within the +/- 15mm variation of the target height of 401mm.


My ride height is now 395mm, exactly where I wanted it.[/QUOTE

Thatīs what i meant, but i didnīt guees that you will that.

 

So my current setup is all new upper and lower wishbone poly bushes, new top ball joints, 18 month old lower ball joints, new shock upper and lower bushes. One black spacer removed from beneath each of the springs. No eccentric bolt on the lower wishbone, and castor shims as per JTIS.

This was my readout on the hunter machine today, it is the first time the car has been within spec an all parameters at the front.


I am not worried about the rear at the moment as the back axel will be coming off in February, the chances are that the toe adjustment will bring the camber into spec, I am also sure I will find various worn bushes back there too.