I've done most of the usual jobs on my 1998 coupe and it was always in the back of my mind that the fuel pump must be due for replacement. That was the kiss of death as last night, with the car parked outside and I needed to get it in the drive that I had a no start. Then it kicked in , ran for 5 seconds then died. This continued for a bit until it ran OK to put it where I wanted it. The MIL light didnt show and there were no codes. Fortunately I bought a pressure test kit a week ago, stuck it on ,fired her up ant it showed 38psi .Now she was running good at that point so there was no surprise that the fuel pressure should be good. That was at midnight last night. I left the guage on overnight and it dropped from 38 to 18psi. I put the ignition on and the guage went to 30psi. Tried a start and it was lumpy and cut out after a few seconds, pressure now showing 20 psi. I dumped the pressure with the guage and then put the ignition on, 30psi again. Now I'm uncertain about the correct pressure, I've seen 40 psi being mentioned and on jagrepair.com there is a pump replacement procedure that mentions 30 psi. can anyone confirm what the pressure should be and when? I'me sure that the reading of 20psi with ignition on condemns the pump. I can hear the pump running so I know it has power, I did think about if it was the filter but surely it would be either blocked or clear and not swap between the two states, filters dont just clear themselves. before I start has anyone got the part number for the fuel pipe disconnection tool for the tank or can you use a universal version?

Thanks

 

Follow Gus's proceedure linked below. The line removal tool I used was in a kit that had assorted sizes that I got at Autozone. Do as Gus did and drill a hole in the removal tool and attach a string to it. You will likely drop it several times and there is little room in that area.

JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

 

Grabbing at straws here, but you said that you could hear the Fuel Pump running. There is a remote possibility that the Fuel Pressure Regulator is acting up. This could cause the symptoms that you describe.

 

Paul,
I did think that too and I have a used one that was on an intake manifold I bought off ebay. However as the car has done 126k miles, the fuel pump is due for a change. I'll put the replacement regulator in after I've run up the new pump.

 

Forgot to mention that I got a replacement pump(new) for £18, it cost me more than that for the fuel pipe disconnection tool!

 

Tried the spare pressure regulator but exactly the same symptoms, so a new pump is the only option. Just need to figure out how to disconnect the fuel lines from the tank without dropping the rear suspension, I know it can be done but I'm struggling to see how to. It would be dead easy with the rear sub-frame out of the way

 

Actually dropping the rear suspension down a couple of inches is no big deal, remove four mount bolts and let hang. Very difficult to get lines free still. If there is any dirt present you cant even get tool in. Wash and blow fittings first. Also, pad the left upper corner of the tank to prevent denting the inside of quarter panel when pulling back as happened to mine. Had to have a pump replaced on a trip, can't do it in a motel parking lot.

 

It would be easy to drop the sub-frame as it was out only a year ago anyway. however , I've read that is possible to change-out from the rear speaker hole and by cutting a 6" hole behind the rear seat. No need to remove the tank pipes or drain the tank

 

+1 on phancs point. In fact I'm planning to cut that hole in my 98 and get it out of the way. Then when the fuel pump fails it will be so much easier to replace.

I'm just hesitant because this hard to envision exactly where to drill.
John

 

There have been a couple of threads on changing the pump through the speaker hole on coupes, but I didn't think they had to cut an extra hole.

I did the cut through the parcel shelf on my conv. and riveted a plate to cover so that it would be easy to replace the pump if on a trip.