fuse locations/size
#1
fuse locations/size
Hey guys,
I can't find my 1999 XK8 convertible's service pdf... can someone tell me:
1. Where the fuse is located for the back-lighting of the three center gauges?
2. Where the fuse/circuit breaker is located for the auxiliary heater pump?
3. Whether or not I need to do some sort of 'reset' to get the heater pump working again?
Just when I was bragging to Dennis that all was well... I loose heat and back lighting.
All the instrumentation works as well as the backlighting for everything but the oil pressure, voltage, time.
The heater vent controls work, I can send the air to the floor, the a/c ducts or the defroster. At highway speeds the heat is strong, but as soon as you hit the off ramp, the temperature drops. The engine is running normal, the temperature rises normally and stays within a normal range.
Please and thank you,
Sabrina
I can't find my 1999 XK8 convertible's service pdf... can someone tell me:
1. Where the fuse is located for the back-lighting of the three center gauges?
2. Where the fuse/circuit breaker is located for the auxiliary heater pump?
3. Whether or not I need to do some sort of 'reset' to get the heater pump working again?
Just when I was bragging to Dennis that all was well... I loose heat and back lighting.
All the instrumentation works as well as the backlighting for everything but the oil pressure, voltage, time.
The heater vent controls work, I can send the air to the floor, the a/c ducts or the defroster. At highway speeds the heat is strong, but as soon as you hit the off ramp, the temperature drops. The engine is running normal, the temperature rises normally and stays within a normal range.
Please and thank you,
Sabrina
Last edited by Sabrina; 01-20-2015 at 07:37 PM.
#2
Under the hood, fuse box on driver side, number 10, is what WhiteXKR said in another post, which runs the heater aux pump. I seem to recall it also powered some other non-essentials, not sure though. Maybe it is also why your lights are not working.
Ooh, just realized you wrote Cambridge, which I am guessing is the UK, bot Boston. Soooo, is the fuse box under "bonnet" on driver side still? I think it is.
Ooh, just realized you wrote Cambridge, which I am guessing is the UK, bot Boston. Soooo, is the fuse box under "bonnet" on driver side still? I think it is.
#5
#8
hey Dennis...
per your drawings, the fuse is #15 and the relay is Relay #1 for the heater valve and auxillary pump.
Thank you so much!
I swapped the 10A #15 fuse with another, I rotated all 7 40A relays from one slot to the next (since their slots are not numbered like the fuses are)
HEAT, HOT, not luke warm, even at idle--thank you.
Still looking over the diagram for the backlighting on the 3 center gauges...
Test Point, thank you, does the 2002 have the same oil press/clock/voltage cluster as my 99?
I just noticed that Dennis' chart shows #15 engine fuse box as the fuse for the heater pump whereas the 2002 diagram uses that fuse position for the AC pump, so your caveat is well taken.
per your drawings, the fuse is #15 and the relay is Relay #1 for the heater valve and auxillary pump.
Thank you so much!
I swapped the 10A #15 fuse with another, I rotated all 7 40A relays from one slot to the next (since their slots are not numbered like the fuses are)
HEAT, HOT, not luke warm, even at idle--thank you.
Still looking over the diagram for the backlighting on the 3 center gauges...
Test Point, thank you, does the 2002 have the same oil press/clock/voltage cluster as my 99?
I just noticed that Dennis' chart shows #15 engine fuse box as the fuse for the heater pump whereas the 2002 diagram uses that fuse position for the AC pump, so your caveat is well taken.
Last edited by Sabrina; 01-21-2015 at 05:53 AM.
#9
Ok, I am jumping in again. For your center gauge cluster bulbs, have you actually checked the bulbs? Perhaps they blew due to a voltage spike of some sort. I know that seems like a stretch, but apparently something caused the aux pump fuse to blow, so maybe something zapped these bulbs, or a couple of them and perhaps one was already blown. And I wouldn't suggest checking the bulbs as a first step if not fairly easy to check. The veneer dash panel is easy to remove by pulling it toward you, no real magic. Then 4 philips screws holding the gauge cluster in place, one electrical connector, which may not need to be disconnected. The bulbs are accessible from the back side. Easy to remove, visually inspect, and or use an ohm meter to check if open.
#10
Ok, I am jumping in again. For your center gauge cluster bulbs, have you actually checked the bulbs? Perhaps they blew due to a voltage spike of some sort. I know that seems like a stretch, but apparently something caused the aux pump fuse to blow, so maybe something zapped these bulbs, or a couple of them and perhaps one was already blown. And I wouldn't suggest checking the bulbs as a first step if not fairly easy to check. The veneer dash panel is easy to remove by pulling it toward you, no real magic. Then 4 philips screws holding the gauge cluster in place, one electrical connector, which may not need to be disconnected. The bulbs are accessible from the back side. Easy to remove, visually inspect, and or use an ohm meter to check if open.
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Sabrina (01-25-2015)
#11
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