Yes, right between the two charcoal canisters, toward the center under the rear axles.

 

Guys, Couple of quick questions. I bought the purge valve, but I dont think it came with the filter or the tubing. Does it take something special, or can I re-use the old one, or buy one at an auto store.

Also is there a way to locate the evap breather outside of the vehicle.

DESCRIPTION PART NUMBER QTY
EVAP canister purge valve LJG 1515BB 1
Hose C2N 3451 1
Filter DAC 4062 1

 

These parts are new and added in TSB 303-63. There are no old parts to reuse. You might be able to rig something up from auto store parts, but why not just buy these and save the trouble?...they are not that expensive. The TSB gives precise instructions as to where to locate these to solve the problems.

Hose C2N 3451 1
Filter DAC 4062 1
Clip C2N 1947 1 (includes the tie wrap now)

 

TSB 303-61v2 does exactly that (among other things).

 

Ok, I did the proceedure TSB 303-61v2 to relocate the vent filter. Sealed the holes around it.

Still have the strong gas smell.

Havn't done the purge valve yet, waiting for it to arrive.

Getting nervous it is the tank seal to the car or cracked EVAP tank. That would be bad. All the hoses look to be in good shape, so I don't think it is that.

??If the vent tube is now located outside the car, even if the purge was stuck open, why would the gas smell still be present??

Thanks in advance for any advice or insight.

 

Under normal operating conditions the vent draws air in, not fumes out. There are exceptions, however, such as the purge valve test cycle (which is only a few seconds), or when certain combinations of operating conditions or faults are detected and the purge valve is temporarily shut off. These are normally brief and do not cause much venting of fumes, but apparently were enough of a problem to have Jag issue the TSB to relocate the vent outside the body.

Then there is the case, which is what we are hoping for here, where the purge valve is not operating correctly, so the gas fumes build up in the canisters (because they are not purged in the engine) and have no where to go but out the vent. I still think this is your most likely scenario....and why you are doing the purge valve TSB.

There is also a little section of black hose, a couple of inches long between the two canisters that often dry rots. It is about 8 bucks to replace and may be worth inspecting. It is not in the TSBs.

 

Check out the figure and description of the Ford Evap system in this article. The Jag XK8 is very similar.

http://www.search-autoparts.com/sear...58/article.pdf

 

I changed nearly everything including a new carbon cannister! Once I installed the new purge valve along with the rubber tubing and filter, the problem went away. Last weekend went on a 100 mile round trip and no gas smell, no fault indicator lighting. Its the purge valve.

 

Ok, just got the purge valve and put it on. It was a new one, but not the new version with the vent tube option. Anyway, it was new so it should at least perform for some milage. I drove it, and the smell is still there. I located the vent filter by the back wheel outside of the frame last week, so it should not be that. The little $ 8 tube looks and feels good, running low on ideas. I am hoping that somehow the fumes were so backed up I am just still getting the residual, but that is just wishful thinking.

 

I am assuming the odor is still primarily from the right rear. If not please clarify.


Have you checked for OBDII codes yet? If not, it might be helpful.

Also, go back to the purge valve and check for vacuum with the engine running at the vacuum hose connection to the valve. If you have a vacuum gauge it should be around 15-18 in. Hg at idle.

OBDII will tell you if there is an electrical problem between the ECU and the purge valve, and the vacuum check will tell you if there is missing vacuum needed also to operate the purge valve.

 

Ok, I checked the vacuum from the air intake to the purge valve, it draws alot of air. I don't have a gauge, but I could tell when I felt it and plugged it, it was sucking good. I had autozone run the computer test on it, and it came back with a 0455 code which translates into a large evap leak.

I decided to put tape over the vent tube near the back wheel just to see if that would stop the smell. It made it instantly worse. Took out off. Gettin desperate.

 

Keep the faith Blake...you actually made a lot of progress narrowing down the problem today.

Here is the list of possible causes for the 0455 code:
-Fuel tank leak

You have pretty much ruled out a purge valve problem and a vacuum problem and a purge valve electrical control problem. The low hanging fruit are still the fuel cap and seal.

If that isn't it you should inspect all the lines around the canisters and coming from the purge valve as best you can. The ones around the canisters are plastic and might have a fracture.

The canister close valve is between the two charcoal canisters under the car and is not too hard to remove. You can take it out of the car and actually activate it with a 12 volt battery and a couple of wires and it is pretty easy to see whether it is operating properly. Supposedly, they can clog with rust particles from the vent pipe....that is why one of the TSBs has you replace the vent pipe.

 

I broke the gas cap last week and can't find a replacement. I have the seal portion taped very well on there with duct tape. Shouldn't leak the way I have it. the has smell started before the cap broke. I am assuming when you say seal you are talking about the gas cap seal. I heard the caps can be bad, but don't understand the system works so it may be a bad cap seal.

 

I believe normal purge valve operation is suspended by the computer when there is a major evap leak (indicated by your fault code)...so yes....definitely replace that cap.

The Jaguar part number is NJD5942AG (about $23 from the dealer)

 

Ok, I took the canister close valve off and tested it with the battery, it opens and closes fine. I took both canisters off, no leaks, but when I took the one off the drivers side there was pure gas drops coming from the hose that goes up to the top of the tank. I took a picture of it and will post when I figure out how. If you take the fuel tank shield off it is the tube that goes to the top of the tank.

While I had the canister off I hooked a piece of tubing to that tube and vented out the back of the car. I drive it around and still smelled the gas smell. When I got back the hose I hooked up was dripping some gas.

I put everything back together, and drove it again, it still smells. Although the check engine light is now off.

I have the vent yes tube from canister two vented through a tube under the back bumper to eliminate that as the cause. My new gas cap comes monday.

I think there is something going on, making that tube from the tank drip. I hope the canister and the tube had so much standing gas in it, that once it dries we will see if the smell goes away. Doubt it. something is up.

Pic 1 is the hose in the trunk, the one with the black 1" holder on IT.

 

I put the new gas cap on, drove it for 2 days. Still have the gas smell. Help!

 

Did you inspect the o-rings on the canister connections? Also check any hoses to the gas tank that you can see behind the gas filler side carpet and the rear carpet in the trunk.

 

My god, this must be catching!!, on the way home from work got a gas smell inside the car!?... but no ticking noises, will investigate it tomorrow!, great info on where to look..

 

FYI, about 30 days ago, I started getting strong fuel smells (worse than I had before). I had the car in the shop for a while doing some audio work, and thought the disconnection of the battery caused an issue with my newly installed purge valve and its required reprogramming by the dealer, but a hard reset didn't work. Mine is bad, happens when A/C is on, and smell it at full stops and even after I just start the car. I've got some visual inspections to perform this weekend...first stop, my purge valve connections in the left front fenderwell. Then I'm going back to the CCVs. Will let you know what I find.

 

When I had the back canister of I did notice the o-ring that connects the house from the tank to the canister was stiff and cracked, but I thought it was no big deal. I guess I will go back and replace it.