Hope this finds all doing well. Ok my story...First I read a bunch of old post to see if anyone had the same going on. No one did with a answer to it all that I could find..

First thing that I did was take my 5 year battery that was only 2 years old in for a new replacement. So I now have a 12.6 volt fully charged battery to work with.

Ok what my 2000 XK8 is doing.

When I start the car it makes 10 beeps. The a/c has a Er on it screen. After starting the car the a/c and heat work fine. On the gauge cluster the message center is not working at all. I have a engine amber and red light that stays on.
The engine amber symbol light stays on and amber low fuel light and the ABS light and the brake light all stay on.

They all stay on while engine is running. Nothing else on the gauge cluster seems to be working while the car is running. When I first turn the key other warning lights come on but never does the message center do anything.

From my understanding of spending the last couple of days ready others old post before I posted this. When the brake light stays on is why I can not shift out of park? I first as you all had suggested had checked to see if the brake lights worked and they do.

Checked fluid levels all is well.I checked every fuse but in the 5th fuse box that I had just found out I even have. Another fuse box in the engine compartment but on the passenger side?I do not think this fuse box has anything to do with what may be going on from my understanding of what the fuses are according to the manual that I had just found in the trunk....

But I did check out around 78 fuses and they all looked good.I did not do a continuity test on any of them.

I did figured out how you take a plug out of the shifter face plate and insert your key and then you are able to take it out of park. Remove the key as soon as you get it out of park or it will hang up and get stuck.

Ok I get it out of park and into neutral so I can start the car.Same thing.The amber engine symbol and amber and red light along with ABS and brake light and fuel level light all stay on.The instrument gauge message center does nothing at all ever. And at start up the Er on the a/c panel.And the 10 beeps.

I drove the car and have no speedo,tach,temp or fuel gauges or message center working.And the mile trip counter is not working. I used my scanner on it and came up with 3 codes. I do not have a ABS tester. I DO NOT GUESS ANY OF THE CODES HAVE ANYTHING TO DO WITH WHAT IS GOING ON?

P0332 Knock sensor 2
Circuit low input Bank 2

P1638 No DTC Definition

P1000 No DTC

Thank you for any help. The car had sat for a couple weeks and when I went to drive it it was doing this so it continues to sit. I did start with a volt meter a week ago checking fuses and I had found a 5 amp fuse that had no voltage going to it and another fuse that I think had only 6 volts going to it.I now forget.This is the fuse box on the end of the dash on the drivers side.Seemed like the 5 amp fuse was 2nd or third fuse up on the left hand roll of fuses and the other fuse was possible the second fuse down on the same left hand side end of dash fuse box. I did not have my manual at the time to tell me what each fuse is. Now that I have a manual on fuses I will be able to know some what what is going on. But if I have no voltage to a fuse I have no clue as to tracing the fuse back to battery voltage to find a short?
I also had removed the gauge cluster 2 main harnesses connectors and looked at them and they all looked clean and dry so I put them back on the cluster.
Everything else on the car seems to be working fine but what I had said on the gauge cluster.The steering wheel raises,lowers, telescopes etc.Dome light comes on when you enter the car.I will save you from going through the entire option list.

Thank you for any help or ideas. I would think that it was a simple thing to fix once one knows what is wrong. A loose connector or bad relay? Ugggg..

 

I'm not an expert but here is a summary of the DTC codes from jagrepair

 

Good day!!

Well, I will tell you that when I got my car it was WYSIWYG (yes, I stole that from my project!!!)... So, I can't tell you what exactly is the problem, but I can maybe get you a little closer... If you read "My project" post, you will get a sense of what I was dealing with initially... I had the EXACT same symptoms you did, with a few more tossed in there... IF, and that is a BIG IF, I had to guess... I think it would be the computer... I had the same DTC's you do (and I can't clear P1000)... I don't have ANY NEW codes currently (other than P1000) and the motor runs as smooth as can be...

I had everything disconnected... Nearly every sensor we have in our cars was disconnected when I turned the car over to prime the oil system... I did this a number of times... I had low coolant alarms, traction control, gearbox faults, incorrect part installed... and none of my gauges worked... Once I got everything connected, added fuel and turned her over... She started and all was right again... I even disconnected the engine and trans computers...

First I would do a hard boot... Pull the battery terminals and let it sit for 3.5325 minutes... Really anything over 2 minutes is good... Reconnect then turn the key to do the self test... If you get the same symptoms, I'd pull the computer and re-connect it... Repeat key on self test... If that doesn't work, then it would be all the sensors I can see... Pull the connectors and then re-connect... But that last one is reaching....

Good luck!!

Let us know!!

Cheers!!

 

P1000 is NOT a fault. It indicates OnBoard tests have not completed since the last memory clear. Once the tests have completed, it's replaced with P1111. You will always have one or the other of these codes.

As you have P1000, the codes have been cleared recently. The reason for clearing them is probably relevant to this issue?

Here's the definitions for the other two codes:

P0332 : Knock Sensor out of range (low voltage) - B Bank
Possible Causes
Poor sensor contact with cylinder block
KS to ECM sense circuit short circuit to ground
KS failure

P1638 : CAN INST token missing
Possible Causes
CAN open circuit fault - INST to ECM
CAN short circuit fault
INST failure
ECM failure

You've got way too much of a Christmas Tree light display on the Instrument Pack to explain these.

I'd check the two Instrument Pack harness connectors again to make sure they are correctly locked in and same for the ECM connector. Battery cables at ground and terminal box followed by a Hard Reset.

Graham

 

Charge the battery and do a hard reset as Graham suggests - but charge the battery!!

 

The battery is brand new and has 12.6 or may have even been 12.7 volts when I first installed it. Are you saying to charge a fully charged battery? I had bought a really nice battery charger/maintainer that I used for the past battery. I have not let the new battery touch it yet. I almost wonder if some how if it had malfunctioned and cause all this? The old battery was hooked up to it for 3 days or so and when I last went to check its charged or in maintain mode, I want to say the maintainer had a flashing red light. I looked up the meaning of it and it said bad battery. That was why I took the battery back again to Auto Zone. Auto Zone"parts store" did a load test on it and said bad. Then while chatting with the lady I asked her to test it again and she did and then it showed the battery as being good. I had the same battery in 2 weeks before and she had said good. That was when I confronted her on it she had tested it again. She said it may be from the battery being at rest inside the a/c in the building? I said regardless I do not want it. I got a better one that is rated for the car.

Ok the hard reset. I do not fully understand. I have been told remove the negative cable for a couple minutes then rehook?

Or remove both cables and hold them together. I did this in the past. Held them unhook from the battery together to see if it would clear things up? Could this have done it? When I did this I think I was trying to see if it would clear the computer and then read my codes afterwards.

Also I want to say that I have read here to unhook both cable and hold them together and have someone turn the ignition key all the way to start and hold it for a few seconds?

What one do I do?

Also on the codes I had read to clear them away and to do it again and see if any old codes fixed them self and if any new ones show up. I guess that is why the P1000 code.

Ok as far as the 2 cluster gauge plugs or terminals ends I myself could not figure out how they snapped back into place after I had removed them. It took a bit of fiddling with them and then I figured them out. All the gauge post and the two main plugs looked fine before I reattached them.

I will look back at replies from all and see what I can do today on the car.
I would think that it would be in one of the owners manuals but if not-what is the location of the computer so that I can unhook it and hook it back up?
And I am thinking to remove the negative battery cable before doing so?

Thank you for the ideas. I will see what I can try on it today.

 

Your new battery measures 12.7 when connected to the car with ign on?
To do a hard reset disconnect the earth lead and touch it to batt +ve for a few seconds.
The ignition should be off.
Did the problems start when you changed the battery? If so it may be one of the cables is bad (some people have had problems with the +ve crimp, also with the earth grounding bolt.
In a LHD the ECM is in the R bulkhead extension - looks a bit like a black plastic lunchbox under the windscreen. Just pull the top off.
It is always a good idea to disconnect battery earth when messing with the electronics.

 

The hard reset is done by removing the negative cable from the battery and touching it to the positive cable/terminal for a few seconds, then reconnect.

 

Ok you got me. I am telling myself that the only stupid question is the question not ask.
What is CAN?

 

Thank you! I do this with the positive cable still hooked up to the battery?

I did this but had both + and - cables "removed" from the battery when I did it. So I guess when I did that I basically did nothing.lol

I will go out right now and do what you suggested.
Thank you very much!

 

CAN is the communications network that lets all the modules (theoretically) talk to one another

Back to the questions
Did the problems start when you changed the battery? If so it may be one of the cables is bad (some people have had problems with the +ve crimp, also with the earth grounding bolt.

 

I will go do what you have suggested on the hard reset.

Then I will look for the LHD and unplug the ECM and look at its connection. With NO battery power.


What it is doing now with a new fully charged battery it was doing with the old battery.

Thank you.

 

That explains the P1000. The P0332 and P1638 are resetting because the faults are still present.

Follow Steve's advice to check the battery and cables.

It's always good and safe practice to connect modules with the battery disconnected and, in the case of the Instrument Pack, definitely with the ignition off. Check none of the pins in the plugs are broken or bent.

The two harness plugs (with the lock clips open) should be brought into contact with the Instrument Pack sockets carefully to ensure the pins line up. Next move the lock clips from the open position towards the harness on each side. As you do this, the plugs will be pressed into place and locked firmly.

Graham

 

If you have a voltmeter, connect the negative lead to ground (such as the metal chassis) and check the voltage on the exposed metal on the top on each side of these two fuses (do not remove the fuses) in the driver side dashboard fusebox:
Fuse #18 and fuse #14. Do this with the ignition fully on and engine off.

Let us know the voltage readings.

 

I do have a volt meter. I did the hard reset and it changed nothing. I did it a couple times with no changes. With my volt meter I tested the ground cable grounding bolt and both ends of the cable to see that the voltage stayed the same.It did.The same with the pos. cable on both ends and they all seem to be fine.
Right now I have 12.4 volts I believe it was. I must have started the car 30 times in the last few days just long enough to let it run for 20 seconds or so to see if the problem fixed itself. So guessing that is why the battery is down from 12.6 to 12.4 now.

I open the hood/bonnet and found the LHD and think that the ECM has a black cover over it that is held in place by a few 6 star bolts. Just like the battery hold down head style bolts? I came in to get the tips to remove the cover and see the updates.

I will go test the fuses suggested and be right back.

Thank you all very much for your time and know how.

 

11.99 volts on both with ignition fully on and engine off. The key was set to the last spot before start. Two clicks.
With the key at one click I have 12.5 volts at fuse #18 and nothing at fuse #14

 

I think there is a failure in your instrument cluster. What seals the deal for me is that you get no messages or data on the display, as well as the apparent CAN bus fault, even though the cluster is apparently getting adequate power.

Your options would be have it repaired if possible, get a used one from a breaker or off of ebay, or new.

 

I updated the test that you had asked me to do as far as the key on one click or turn and then the key at two clicks or turns with the third click or turn of the key being start and run.
With it running both fuses read 14.8 volts.

So no other test to do? Could I check the wire or post that powers the gauge cluster on one of the two main harnesses to the gauge cluster? Just to make sure that power is at the gauge? No cut or damaged harness wiring? If so do you have any idea what post hole it would be to test and on what side of the gauge cluster harness? Left or right side?

I had heard that something in the gauge cluster is why they drain the battery.Is this true and if so I wonder if the person that does this repair can also repair my gauge cluster? I had seen this offered by a Ebay sellers years ago. I do not know if he still even offers this drain repair or not? I do not remember who it ever was. Just remember seeing it years ago and thinking huh..I wonder what he does??

Do I with the finding still need to check out the ECU?

Any idea of the fix on the gauge cluster? What I can test on it once I remove it? Or a test to confirm its death?

Many thanks to all!

 

I'm afraid Steve (whiteXKR) tends to be spot on in his diagnoses.
However - have you followed Graham's instructions re checking connectors etc. in Post #13

The rebuild isn't too bad
http://www.ebay.com/itm/JAGUAR-XK8-X...-/280302986618

 

No I had not done that yet. I my self could not get the clips back on. My neighbor is a VW tech and came over and put the two plugs back in the gauge cluster for me with the clips to them locked down just like it was before I removed them. He did it in no time. I played with one for 5 minutes and could not figure the darn thing out. So went next door for help.I will go check them now. I had the same "whats going on" before I ever removed the 2 cluster harnesses. But still will check.

Any reason to still be sure to check the ECM harness? Now I can not find my darn star ends that fits its bolts to remove the cover. I used the ends a few days ago to R&R the battery and do not know what I did with them...But I will find them. Working my way down the list of to do's