Have you followed Graham's instructions re checking connectors etc. in Post #13

Yes I did and all looks good. Clean tight.

 

So it's a rebuild then.
Please let us know what happens.

 

Ok I was able to find a star end to get the cover off the LHD.
I removed 6 harness plugs from the LNF1410BC and they all look good,dry and clean so plugged it all back together.
Found a Bosch Transmission Controller and unplugged it and again looked at all the pins and harness end and it all looked good so plugged it back together.
Found a single blue plug that goes to a CANRS1/F "unsure on the 1/f from my hand writing"and unplugged it and again checked it out and it all looked good so plugged it back in.
Put the LHD cover back in place. Hooked the neg. battery terminal back up. Started car. Same crap. Checked out the instrument harnesses one more time as told to be sure that they are fitting as they should. Then removed them and seen no signs of a bent pin or and damages. So removed the gauge cluster.
I will buy the one that I was shown from Ebay and hope for the best. I wonder if I will loose the memory of the millage? I will ask the Ebayer who is selling it. Car is low miles and would like to be able to keep it as such!

When I was in the LHD and seen the one blue plug that goes to a CANRS 1/f can that be what is bad and why I get the CAN on codes?
And the gauge cluster be all good? Or since I was getting voltage to the cluster it means the CANRS is good?

It looks like I will send the cluster out tomorrow and let you all know what happens when I get it back. It will be sweet not having to worry about the battery drainage issue if he is really able to be rid of it.

Thank you all for the help!! Especially the volt testing expertise!

 

If the cluster is repaired you should most likely not lose the odometer mileage. If it is replaced, then you will.

See if you can contact the rebuilder first. I am a little concerned they pictured a -96-99 cluster. Your 2000 cluster was the first year of a design change. You can tell by the yellow left side connector on yours. The earlier ones have two black connectors, like the one they pictured.

 

The only possibility left is down to the ECM harness plug not being seated properly then it's all pointing to the Instrument Cluster.

The link in Steve's post #19 looks very good value for a rebuild.

Graham

 

Jaguar addressed this years ago.

Do a TSB search or look at the attached bulletin.

bob gauff

 

Is this something that a Jaguar dealership would repair or I would be able to get what ever parts are needed from Jaguar to repair it myself?
I had already removed my gauge cluster and have it boxed with a shipping label on it to be picked up today. Paid the people on Ebay for the rebuild. I am guessing that they know about this TSB? I am going to email or call them and see.

Until I get my gauge cluster back do you see any reason why I should not drive other then the fact of no gauges? Can any harm be done to anything? I have the terminal ends all tucked away safely so nothing can short out.
I ask because I had to pick up my daughter from after school and drove it as is. Filled the fuel tank so I would know that I had fuel. I keep track of oil level and coolant so I have no over heating issues or low oil. I will only need it again Thursday. 2 days a week until I get the cluster back.

The car has a stumble if I give it to much gas? So I step on the gas real lightly and slowly give it more to gain speed. I do not know if this is because something is not able to communicate with something? Or if I have another gremlin?
This code that I was getting before i removed the gauge cluster could it be related to why I have a stumble? A hard stumble.Like a kick.

Code was P0332 Knock sensor 2
Circuit low input Bank 2
Are they talking about a sensor in the cylinder head or side of engine block?
This is the only vehicle that I do not have a dealership service manual for.

Thank you!

 

See pages 2 and 3 for diagrams of the location of the Knock Sensors:

JTIS - 2000 XK8 Electronic Engine Controls.pdf

I've included the whole document because the remainder may help as you troubleshoot the stumbling.

Graham

 

I don't buy the new inst panel back plate anymore, I just grind the plastic away from the area where the newer panels have the recess.

I guess the updated panels are still available?? but I don't know.

bob gauff

 

Bob,

Sounds like you've done several of these repairs detailed in the TSB you posted. Is it a common fault?

Graham

 

Any reason why it lasted 12 years before it had the issues? According to the TBS CAN Failure service auction S484 it looks to me like ether it was done right or wrong? Heat over time caught up with it?
I almost want to take my cluster out of its shipping box and check it out before I send it off.
The company that I am sending it to had asked if it had ever been opened before? Answer no. Said that the price is what it is for repairs no matter what is wrong with it. That if it had been opened in the past and tampered with that it may need additional work done to it. So I guess that I will leave it alone. I told the company that I am not trying to do his job for him "but" was he aware of the TBS on CAN failure?

According to my vehicle care manual they are calling the passenger the right side when talking about fuse box location. I guess that is my answer on Jaguar's right and left. So I will be taking out the drivers"left bank sensor".
Any continuity testing that can be done on it to check it out to see if it is good and wiring bad? I would bet on it being the sensor because the car has never been in a wreck or anything to have caused damage to the wire. I had put a upgraded water pump and aluminum tower and what not upgrades on it about year ago and did not see any bad wire at the time or it would had been taken care of then. Can I ask for the best place to buy the needed sensor from or does it matter? Stick with original parts as far as sensors go? I had heard that just by putting the wrong light bulb in can cause havoc on these cars. True or not I do not know. I know that they are to darn smart for there own good!

 

[QUOTE=steveinfrance;571113]Your new battery measures 12.7 when connected to the car with ign on?


Going through all the replies and see a few that I did not answered. I was listening and do appreciate the replies.
That 12.7 volts was at the battery with ignition off.
On was 14.8 volts I think it was while running.

 

I had removed the ECU and unplugged the 7 wiring harnesses that run to it and look everything over real good and seen no signs of anything wrong. Same with the Bosch Transmission controller and the CAN thing. Unplugged it all and looked at all the wiring harnesses and the pins for any sign of moisture or damage. Everything looked fine.All post clean and wires look brand new. Also the relays in the same box showed no signs of anything wrong.
The best part. Now I know the location of the parts! One good thing about issues is that you and other are able to learn from it all.

Thank you all for your help.

 

I'd definitely look at doing the repair yourself - you've got nothing to lose and the instructions are very straightforward.
If you can't fix it - send it off.
I imagine you could plug it in with the plate off just hanging on the cables and, if it all lights up, you've fixed it.

 

The right and left is as if you were sitting in the drivers seat facing forward.

 

I had already paid for the repair service before I got your reply.
I would had liked to have fixed it myself.
Mail man picked it up yesterday priority mail so should have it back guessing in a week.
They claim to also do some repair that helps stop battery drainage issues?

I will let you all know how things go when I get it back.
While I am doing repairs I also ordered
W0133-1614846 Coolant Level Sensor "Now I can remove the paper clip"
W0133-1657508 Coolant Reservoir Hose "cracked when removing reservoir"
W0133-1657696 Knock Sensor

 

I had got my 2000 XK8 instrument gauge cluster back and installed. I have had it back for a week or more now. I could not be any more pleased with it and for the work that was done! Module Master had called me and went over all the needed parts and repairs. Not just the simple repair that was talked about here a few post up that I could had done myself. It sounded like a lot got replaced on it and the cost all stayed the same.They even replaced all the lamps"bulbs" with new. The return shipping box was of the correct size needed with the foam castings made all around the cluster to support it. It was even in a static free sealed air tight bag. I again could not be any more pleased!! I do not know if it is ok to put the info here or not but I will and if it must be removed remove it. Knowing now what I have learned if my gauge cluster was not acting up as it was I still would take the time to remove it "simple enough" and send it off. The car ran fine for the week at most without it in the car. I just made sure to fill the fuel tank.Also the mileage info as I had hoped was not lost on the cluster.
To drive the car I had to insert my key in the automatic shifter face plate hole to get it out of park. The owners manual goes over this. Again this is a must know so if this ever happens to you you are able to get your car out of park to be able to drive it home or to a shop or land fill. That was how it had me feeling"land fill" Now I love it again!

This is how they are listed on Ebay for others to find.

JAGUAR XK8 XJ8 1998-2000 INSTRUMENT CLUSTER - REBUILD SERVICE
Restores CAN Communication or Battery Drain.

ModuleMaster
2006 S Main St
Moscow, ID 83843
USA
888-892-0764.

 

I also had ordered original parts knock sensor and a few other small items and got them installed myself on the car. So no more codes to read!
So I will quit calling it is stupid Ford. And call it my Jaguar again

 

Great result.

I've added 'RESOLVED' to your thread title.

Graham

 

A follow up. Almost 3 years now and the instrument gauge cluster still works great! Also no more dead battery issues! So glad that I had sent it off for repairs! Best $100.00 dollars spent.