I had my hazard lights stick on today.
There's a thread suggesting loosening the screws that hold the switch panel in place and I'll be taking a look at that tomorrow.
Here's a quick fix if it happens to you.

Stick the corner of a credit card in the gap between the surround and the INNER side of the switch.
You can then use the card to operate the switch - push the card in + pull it out = 1 press cycle (ie toggle on or off).

Like checking the key unlocks the boot I STRONGLY suggest testing your hazard lights switch on and off from time to time.
Several owners report having to drive with hazards stuck on in potentially dangerous circumstances - and it would definitely attract the Old Bill.
Having said that the credit card trick will get you out of trouble.

 

The switch seems to attract sticky dirt and loosening the two fixing screws alone will not fix it.

Once the switch pack is out of the console, the front cover can be popped off. It's secured on two pegs at the top ............



............. and two at the bottom:



With the cover off, the switch body can be properly cleaned.

Graham

 

The problem seems to be there is a long plastic plunger bearing on a rather feeble keyboard type switch which, once the grease gets old + dirty, doesn't have the willpower to push the plunger out.

FIX
Use the Rev Sam's console removing video - easier in later cars since the shifter bezel is held on by four small Allen screws.
IMPORTANT
You MUST pull the console horizontally to the rear of the car until it clears the switch/radio cluster.
If you don't you will break the feeble plastic housings it slots into. Grrrrr!

Once you have the cluster unscrewed (6 phillips, don't drop them into the transmission tunnel) you can unplug the switch module with DSC, Hazard etc. and take it somewhere warm.
Remove the PCB from the back, then follow Graham's instructions to remove the front of the switches.

With a fine screwdriver lift the body clear of the little locking tab (arrow)


The plunger can then be pushed backwards out of the body and body + plunger cleaned and given a dose of silicone spray.
Do the same with any switch plungers that feel sticky.
That's it.

 

Definitely a job on my list.

The pins of a spent fuse that i'd left in the centre console tray worked for me last time my hazards stuck, in rush hour heavy traffic just before entering the north bound Blackwall tunnel on my way to XKRacers.

Not the best place to have your hazards stuck on.

 

The advantage of a credit card is it's always to hand.
The whole job takes half an hour at most.

Another thing to watch for is the little black plastic plugs the Phillips screws bite into.
They appear to be held in by mountain dew or gossamer silk and there's only one place they can fall into.

 

I added some additional pics to an old thread for more detail on the Hazard/Traction buttons so it's a little easier to visualize what's happening behind the scenes before undertaking removing the console and getting the HVAC stack out without breaking that very fragile plastic "console switch mounting cover" bezel that surrounds the whole HVAC/radio stack.


Rear view of hazard switch inner button.

The middle buttons are similar but smaller and tend not to stick.

The 4 channels it slides in should be clean and lubricated.


This is the actual underlying button. When pressed the top 2 layers are flush with the 3rd layer. The button is spring loaded and does not stat in when pressed


The nub between the 2 small squares is what presses the underlying button (rear view of inner button).

The bigger round hole is for the backlighting bulb, the smaller one is only used on the buttons that have an LED on indicator led like the seat heaters or Trac/ Off buttons