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Hazy headlight lenses/valve cover gaskets

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Old 12-05-2011, 04:29 PM
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Default Hazy headlight lenses/valve cover gaskets

Hi out there just wondered if anyone has ever removed the small access panel in the front wheel wells of a 99 xk8.(coulnd't figure out how to remove the center clip) my thought is to remove the bulb assembly and possibly gain access to the headlight lens using a sponge type baby bottle cleaner dampened with alcohol. Also, all data diy on line repair manual states around 4 hours to replace the valve cover gaskets. The appear to be easily accesible. If you've done them were they a pain in the butt? Any help is appreciated
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Old 12-05-2011, 05:06 PM
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I tried to clean the interior of the headlights on a '00 XK8 and found that the silver coating wiped right off. Fortunately, I stopped before I did much damage.

From personal experience, the valve cover gasket replacement might be a maximum 2 hour job and I am a hobby mechanic. Biggest issue I had was getting the oil dip stick tube back into the block. You have to remove it because it is held in place by one of the bolts of the valve cover. Another issue is the part load breather tube on the left bank. The plastic fitting will be brittle from age and heat and must be carefully removed. It is only held in place by an 'O' ring and the round pressure clip. Use a standard pair of pliers to carefully hold it round and twist it off. Other than that no big deal, just lots of things to remove.

The gaskets are available at your local auto parts store for less than $40 as a FelPro part number for a '00 Lincoln LS which used the Jaguar engine for a couple years. About a third of the Jaguar part number cost even discounted.

. . . and welcome to the forum!

Last edited by test point; 12-05-2011 at 05:23 PM.
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Old 12-05-2011, 08:59 PM
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I forgot to mention that the gaskets are more like 'seals'. Tightening them down too much will not improve their sealing capacity. The cover bolt holes have 'standoffs' that will tell you when they are properly snugged down. Further tightening will crush the standoffs and the gaskets and cause oil leaks from the cracked plastic covers.

Quarter inch ratchet and two fingers.

There is a torque specification somewhere but few have a 1/4" torque wrench.
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Old 12-05-2011, 10:06 PM
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The torque setting for the cam covers is 9-11Nm. Additionally, the setting for the coil pack bolts is is 4-6 Nm. Be careful to avoid over tightening the coil pack/ spark plug cover, as the female inserts may spin inside the cam cover. I found someone had set a couple of mine too tight and taking them off was a minor problem. I ended up lifting up on the cover enough to wedge the insert tight enough to unscrew the bolt. One of the inserts simply popped out with the spark plug cover. I epoxied them back into the cam cover, so all in all a minor annoyance, but just be careful to go easy on those. The spark plug torque setting is 25-29 Nm. You don't have to take them out, but if you choose to, that is the setting. There is also a tightening sequence for the cam covers. Essentially you start with the inner two (inside the coil pack recess) and then move out alternately on the perimeter bolts from the centre to the ends.

You will probably want to replace the spark plug well seals at the same time, especially if you find any oil down there.

A dab of silicone where the timing cover meets the block ( top and bottom) is required. Just put a few light dabs inside the seal trough in the covers to hold it in place before you put them back on.

After finger tightening the bolts, I use a dentist's mirror and run it along the edges of the cover just to make sure the seal has not been folded over or pulled itself out of position before tightening to the torque setting. Not essential, but it gives a very good visual of the seal position where you otherwise can not see it.

Good luck
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Old 12-06-2011, 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by test point View Post
Biggest issue I had was getting the oil dip stick tube back into the block. You have to remove it because it is held in place by one of the bolts of the valve cover.
Cut the extra length of stud that holds the tube with a dremel and lift the tube holder out. No need to pull it from the block.

Last edited by Vector; 08-15-2012 at 05:54 PM.
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