OK, everything was fine. Then I had to install the two front seats so had to disconnect the battery. Now my convertible top won't go up! I tried locking the top up and then lowering nothing. I tried lowering the top disconnecting the battery, resetting everything T-handle on pump, lock latch closed, battery connected after 10minutes. The top goes up but locking latch stays closed. So long story short is there a learn routine like the front windows?

 

There are lots of threads on this or variants of it.
It can be due to many things, the most likely being the controller has got confused.
Make sure your battery is good, that's important, then lower the top fully either manually (taking care to do it properly or you'll wreck things) or with the pump, then raise it.
Repeat a few times.
If the latch doesn't sort itself then lower the top, open Tee handle, manualy open latch with the Allen key, close Tee handle and try again.

 

What was it you were doing when you had to install the two front seats?

 

Gus, I was just was reinstalling the interior after replacing all the hoses. The seats work fine now but the top may have gotten a little wacko. I think I'm going to raise and lower the top about 20 times manually see if that works. If that doesn't work disconnect the battery for a weeek and then try it again. Steve Thanks, I charged the battery just in case and it was fine. The controller has to be the problem(confused) just have to figure out how to calm him/or her down maybe a good slap ....

 

You might want to check that the lines arent pinched under the drivers seat.

 

Did you cross the hoses to the latch? Do you have my number?

 

The top was working fine Gus. This is the sequence of my actions: I lowered the top(came down fine), disconnected the battery , installed passenger seat(front bolts first), installed drivers seat(rear bolts first), connected battery moved seats so as to get other two bolts in each seat, tested seats all works fine, cleaned interior a little, went to raise top and nothing. I can hear the pump faintly but nothing. I have gotten the top to raise after unlocking the latch leaving it up/open but then the latch closes before the top fully closes :/ ... Xamyel I'll check the lines again tomorrow but I'm sure I ran them right. Thanks all, I disconnected the battery today(and trickle charging) will hook it back up Sunday(between church services) and will work the top 20 times(including manually latching and unlatching the lock) just because :/ Well have to get ready for Church will work on the car on Sunday and post my results. Thanks everyone...

 

If I open the top manually and leave the lock mechanism in the unlocked position then close the top electronically the top begins to close and the locking latch closes at the same time but does not open up again to catch the top in order to lock it. If I try to lower the top it won't move no motor nothing. Is there a troubleshooting procedure in the JTIS? Oh and the rear windows don't move at all during all this.

 

If you are running the roof closed after you open the latch and the latch closes before the roof reaches it the roof latch hoses are crossed. Swap the hoses at the pump. Then open the roof completely and close the latch and see if you can close and latch the roof electrically. If it does not work you will need to reset the system. Do not over analyze the system.

 

+1 had the same problem after installing the hose, swapped the hose at the pump and problem solved. Jim

 

So finally got back to looking at it and this is what I used to check out the top operation: 501-11AM. This has some great info and covers the operation of the system and has some troubleshooting in it too. So I found out that I both switches are bad in my Right cylinder. I just don't have any continuity in the lowered and raised positions. While the top was used only manually by the last owner for years. Now just to find a good used cylinder...

 

Your diagnosis certainly is possible, but I have found that the switches often open a few seconds after the hydraulic pump shuts off, especially on well-used cylinders.

In other words, once the pressure relaxes in the system the switches lose continuity. If the top is manually operated, you may not even get continity in the cylinder switches.

 

Ok I was wondering about that, do you think I could check them better if the cylinder was removed? I checked them with the top all the way up and the top down and get nothing from the switches.

 

I do not know the answer to that, but remember, that pump generates 1600 PSI...that may be difficult to manually simulate!

Going back to looking for simpler solutions, I did not see any mention in this thread of the fluid level. Is it between the two embossed lines on the translucent tank? Even just a little low can prevent the top from operatiing properly.

 

The fluid is fine first thing I checked since I had replaced all the hoses before the top decided to stop working. This is the only thing I have been able to find so far that is out of the norm.

 

The ram switches are like a ground if you think it is the switch then ground the lead and see what takes place. Did you swap the hoses??? If you did what were the results? If you are not careful you can over analyze the situation and end up confusing yourself stay on track.

 

Hey Gus, no I haven't swapped the hoses yet. That was going to be my next move if the switches were fine. But I I'll try it, It's just that I never disconnected the hoses after the top started working fine the first time. I must have lowered and raised the top a least 12 times before disconnecting the battery again. If anything I think the confused top syndrome was the most logical. Oh and I noticed that if the top is down and the rear windows are up(I manually lifted them with a 12v source) they do not go down once the vehicle battery is connected. The windows would go down as I had done this to prevent critters from getting into the car, so I do think it's the switches. That sounds like a good idea Gus I will try to ground the sensing wire for top down and see if at least it changes anything. I know that the signal is lost once the top moves a certain distance so it's going to be tricky but it should work for a test. But I have to wait until tomorrow as it's getting dark and the West Nile mosquitoes are out in force here Texas.

 

Do your test and see what takes place once that is done call me you have my number. We need to put things in proper perspective to prevent from wasting our time.

 

All right!!! It works!!!! well after consulting with my expert(thanks Gus) we got it working!!! I checked the right cylinder again and it Now has the right continuity readings. After doing a hard reset I checked the system again and the only problem seemed to be air in the locking latch(keeping it from fully closing) lines. Once the air worked it's way out all is well with my baby. I still think that my right lift cylinder has a intermittent open circuit so I think it would be a great time to get the lift cylinders and locking latch rebuilt with better seals. Thanks everyone for your input believe me it all helped. I just love this forum, Great info and the best people around!!!

 

Hi guys. Just a quick note of thanks.
This thread really helped me get my roof sorted out as well. I bought a water damaged 97 convertible, with a damaged SLCM (security locking control module) So many thing didn't work. The roof being one. So after buying a second hand module off ebay, I had to modify the connectors due to the original ones being corroded. Got it connected up and it fixed all the small things (stuck in valet mode, no reverse lights, boot open warning) But the roof still did not work. I could hear the pump run, but nothing else happened. It was only after replacing the reverse light fuse that had since gone in all the wire work, that the roof worked perfectly! It was in the fully closed position, 1st press opened and worked as advertised. 2nd press closed and seated perfectly.
I am not sure if this is even related, but that is all I did and the roof worked after that. So if you are still battling with yours, it might be worth checking that 5A fuse in the boot fuse box.
Thanks to all for their posts here over the years, every little bit helped.

Safe roof down travels :-)

Dion