Hi everyone! Just pulled my XK8 out of storage about a month ago and have been enjoying it ever since!

However, today I had an issue that seems to be repeating. This morning it fired up immediately. I drove 45 mins to work and it ran FLAWLESS. I pulled over to get coffee and when I returned the car wouldn't start. It cranks and cranks but it won't turn over. I tried for 15 mins or so with no luck. I sat in the car for another 10 mins without trying then finally tried one last time and it immediately fired right up. As if nothing was ever wrong! From there I drove it to the office without any issues.

I drove home without any issues at all and again, it performed FLAWLESS. After I parked it in my garage I tried to start it again and again, it won't start.

Any ideas or thoughts here?

Thanks!
Jay

 

Any starting problem following storage should include a check of the fuel pump. Storage kills a lot of them.

 

I understand

To be clear, when I say 'storage' I'm talking about 4 or 5 months max.

The strange part is when the car is cold, it fires right up. It's only after it has fully reached it's running temperature that I'm stuck.

 

Next time it cranks but will not start, check for a strong squirt of fuel when you depress the Schrader valve on the fuel injector rail. No fuel or a dribble= likely fuel pump issue.

 

Ok, will do. Great advice, thank you!

 

I have had this happen once after sitting in 100+ degree stop and go traffic for over an hour and stopped for about 5 minutes. No start and the failsafe mode message. Waited about 5 more minutes and it started right up. I speculated that the standing coolant temp was too high to let it start. That's when I got Realguage. Don't know if that helps but, that was my experience.
Dave

 

That's an interesting theory. About an hour after I got home I jumped back in the car and it fired right up without hesitation.

 

I do not believe that there is any circuitry in the car that will prevent the engine from starting or running too hot. On the other hand, something electronic on the engine might have malfunctioned from excessive heat, such as the electronics in the throttle body or the MAF sensor.

 

Shame on me for not disclosing this earlier.

After I put the car back on the road I have 2 codes stored with a CEL still illuminated.

1001 (just put a new battery in)

440 - Eval emission failure

Good possibility my culprit could be whatever is causing the 440 code, no?

 

Update -

Took the car out today and drove it for about 40 mins. Got home and turned it off. I waited 1 minute and tried to start it. No luck. Just turns and turns but no fire.

I wrapped a napkin around the schrader valve and depressed it with my key. Fuel shot up 3 feet in the air!! However, after doing that a few times the car started up.

Is my FPR shot? I'm lost... I'd hate to blindly take this into a mechanic and have someone randomly throw parts at it.

 

The next time you have the no start move the shifter around in “P” and if it does not start put the shifter in “N” and try again.

 

OK GUS, I will try that. Thank you for your time.

 

Hi Gus. I tried your suggestion and unfortunately it didn't work.

I took the liberty of making a short video of what I'm dealing with. Please take a look and let me know what your thoughts are.


And here's a follow up video shot 15 mins later. Car starts with no issue.

 

That's a lot of warnings it is cycling through. Have you checked the engine grounds being loose or deteriorated.

May have an effect when the engine is hot. Just a thought.

I assume you have done the fully charging the battery thing.

 

Yeah, battery is tip top, fully charged. I checked that as well a few nights ago. With the car off it shows that it's 100% charged and my charger shows the alternator is putting out well over 14 volts.

Thank god for the new battery! If I had my old one in there I would have been stranded with all of the starting attempts. At least now I know to just wait it out until I give it a try.

As for the warnings, the Traction Control and ABS lights are related. I was told by my mechanic that if most likely need a new ABS computer. Easy enough fix...

As for the rear bulbs, last summer I discovered that the previous owner hacked the wire loom in the trunk. Rather than replace a faulty socket he cut into a live wire from the opposite working side and jumped it over to the bad side. Such a ratty move.

 

Clean the wheel speed sensors first before you do the computer. It's free and easy and it works for many including me. Rev Sam has a video on doing it.

 

Good advice! Thanks

 

First disconnect the battery then go the fuse box under the hood and swap like relays with like relays and check all the fuses. In fact it would not be a bad idea to remove and reset the fuses. Reconnect the battery and see what takes place.

 

To clarify, there are two fuseboxes you should do this to, the passenger side near the windshield and the driver side near the headlight.

 

Guys this is great stuff! Thank you very much.

It looks like it's going to pour any minute here so I'll wait until tomorrow and get back to you.

Again guys, thanks!!!