When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I also found that when i lift the door handle the window drops a couple of inches. I tried to follow the window reset too. I heard the click after going up and down but haven't resolved that yet either.
Normally if the reset does not work, that is an indication of an extremely weak battery. Do you have a multimeter to check the voltage?
Thank you Reverend, very nice video as always.
Two things:
1) You mention glue on the wood trim. How did you deal with that (the first time you removed it). Brute force?
2) To those of you who would like to download all those nice Youtube videos for local viewing (and use Windows): you might want to try Youtube Downloader HD. Works for me, and fast too - you just enter the URL (link) to the Youtube video you want, hit "download" and wham. No need to watch the whole thing before you can save it.
Just be sure to opt out of the silly "add-ons" when you install the application.
There is no glue removal on the wood trim whatsoever involved.
On some cars there is a bit of a tar-like adhesive at the top of the instrument cluster...that simply breaks free.
Rev Sam, got a question for you or anyone who might have an answer. I have an 05 XKR Conv. and followed the video (great video). Everything seemed to go smoothly until i realized I had bought the wrong bulbs for the lower lights instead of the upper ones. No worries, 20 min later i had the 194's. I changed out all four, buttoned every back up and turned the key... douggghhhh, no dash lights, all the rest of the lights were working, and it would not turn over. I got an "ER" message on the climate control display. Any ideas??? ...
Battery was working fine earlier. I had driven the car 20 min before I started the replacement, battery was only disconnected for an hour or so by the time i reconnected it.
I went through the light bulb replacement about a week ago or so and had actually gone through it twice since the first time I had the wrong bulbs. Neither time did I bother to unhook the battery and there were NO problems except for some beeps with the ER message that happened once. I think this was due to the unconnecting and then re-connecting of the temperature sensor for the climate control (the one on the right side of the bolster). Once I turned the key on and off this went away.
Another tip I can offer is to do some kind of strengthening of the 2 tabs at the lower right and left edges of the veneer panel. These are of course plastic and are easily breakable (ask me how I know). I found that finding the right size metal flat washer and using epoxy to mount it to the tab is a great help, especially since the mounting screws bear up against this (if you take a look you will see what I mean).
There is no glue removal on the wood trim whatsoever involved.
On some cars there is a bit of a tar-like adhesive at the top of the instrument cluster...that simply breaks free.
WhiteXKR, thanks. Sounds less ominous than what Rev. Sam said:
One thing, though. The first time I tried to do it I was following some directions that were a PDF in the FAQ section. Those directions don't say anything about taking off the knee bolster, and they say that the wood trim can be pulled off just like the wood trim around the nav system. Well that didn't work. I pulled and pulled and I was pulling so hard I'm surprised I didn't crack it. When I finally found the other directions and got the trim off by removing the knee bolster, I discovered that the wood is glued in place up near the trip computer buttons. Maybe the older XKs can be taken apart that way, but the 2003's sure can't
Batman did you ever sort out the issues with the dash lights not working?
Juke, thanks for asking, haven't resolved it yet. I was able to reset the windows once I had the key in the correct position. I am hoping to get some time later today to try again. I'll let you know how it goes.
Third time was a charm... Not sure I did anything different than before, but did take extra care to press the connectors in tight. I was encouraged when I reconnected the battery before putting everything back together and the mileage displayed. Once it was all back together it fired right up. Took her for a nice ride in the unseasonably warm Chicago winter... So far
Is the instrument panel illuminated during the day? Mines hard to read in the daytime as the speedometer is recessed. Have you used LEDs or standard and as some have mentioned they brought the wrong globes,what are the right ones please
LEDs sounds like it might mean not having to go there again but are there a bit bright at night,if you used them (I know there is a dimmer switch) Thanks.
I just finished mine..What a PIA. I used 1 smd green and white LED's for center console depending of what color was originally used. Complaints of it being to bright was the reasoning I went 1 smd. I didn't want to change resistance or sand or....Im satisfied. Now for the cluster you need to use green LED instead of white for the main gauges. If you don't youre cluster will be blue. I also used 1 smd led's for the cluster . Seems ok but haven't done much driving around. I do have 4 smd led I can try if the cluster doesn't seem bright enough, All I can say with this experience is the entire figuring out which way the LED needs to go in drove me nuts until I realized the sockets could go in two ways as well....So even though I would flip the LED sometimes id accidently flip the socket and it still wouldn't work...Learned that lesson after an hour. Biggest issue now...Radio....VERY DIM...And those bulbs are soldered in and not easily changed. Maybe time for an upgrade:O) One day Ill start one of those this is what Ive done to my XKR threads.
This is the second video from this source I have used...thanks a million. Inspite of the previous owners use of double sided carpet tape and pieces of duct tape I managed right up until 6.04 on the video "There's 2 connectors, a yellow and a black one with a lever..." I have a feeling mine are held in with a couple of zip ties. I can't really tell from the video and would appreciate a close up photo of these connectors if anyone has them.
Thanks again to all at this forum.
Last edited by englishmaninla; Jun 27, 2018 at 10:49 PM.
Reason: spelling
....."There's 2 connectors, a yellow and a black one with a lever..." I have a feeling mine are held in with a couple of zip ties. I can't really tell from the video and would appreciate a close up photo of these connectors if anyone has them.
This is the yellow harness connector on my 2005 XK8. The black lock lever in the open position.
It rotates towards the harness (top of the photo) to lock.
Bulbs replaced and all work. Now to replace the facia it would appear that the cowling and the wood panel were at one time connected with little tabs and clips. As there are only three left (one I glued back)
would it be in order to epoxy the wood panel to the cowling?
EnglishmanLA, I'd be uncomfortable using such a permanent method of attachment (epoxy). I don't have it in front of me so hard to picture. If you need an adhesive, use something like Goop brand glue. Goop will attach it securely, but it is flexable to some degree and can be removed without too much effort if you ever need to.
Heck if Goop doesn't feel right, how about using hide glue. The same stuff they use on $25,000 acoustic guitars today, or used on $400,000+ Martin D-45's from the 1940s (I'd love to find one of them in a garage sale someday). It will harden but can be repeatedly released with heat (that's how they take the top off the guitar).
Thanks for the suggestions. I have used hide glue (Titebond) on guitars and whilst it can be released with heat, I'm not sure about the weather proof aspect of that adhesive. However, Goop seems like a good thing to try before epoxy. I'll post the results.
