Normally if the reset does not work, that is an indication of an extremely weak battery. Do you have a multimeter to check the voltage?

 

There is no glue removal on the wood trim whatsoever involved.

On some cars there is a bit of a tar-like adhesive at the top of the instrument cluster...that simply breaks free.

 

I went through the light bulb replacement about a week ago or so and had actually gone through it twice since the first time I had the wrong bulbs. Neither time did I bother to unhook the battery and there were NO problems except for some beeps with the ER message that happened once. I think this was due to the unconnecting and then re-connecting of the temperature sensor for the climate control (the one on the right side of the bolster). Once I turned the key on and off this went away.

Another tip I can offer is to do some kind of strengthening of the 2 tabs at the lower right and left edges of the veneer panel. These are of course plastic and are easily breakable (ask me how I know). I found that finding the right size metal flat washer and using epoxy to mount it to the tab is a great help, especially since the mounting screws bear up against this (if you take a look you will see what I mean).

Doug

 

WhiteXKR, thanks. Sounds less ominous than what Rev. Sam said:

 

Batman did you ever sort out the issues with the dash lights not working?

 

Juke, thanks for asking, haven't resolved it yet. I was able to reset the windows once I had the key in the correct position. I am hoping to get some time later today to try again. I'll let you know how it goes.

 

Third time was a charm... Not sure I did anything different than before, but did take extra care to press the connectors in tight. I was encouraged when I reconnected the battery before putting everything back together and the mileage displayed. Once it was all back together it fired right up. Took her for a nice ride in the unseasonably warm Chicago winter... So far

 

Is the instrument panel illuminated during the day? Mines hard to read in the daytime as the speedometer is recessed. Have you used LEDs or standard and as some have mentioned they brought the wrong globes,what are the right ones please

LEDs sounds like it might mean not having to go there again but are there a bit bright at night,if you used them (I know there is a dimmer switch) Thanks.

 

Yes--the instrument cluster lights are on ALL the time. It would be nice if you could turn them off during the day.

Doug

 

I just finished mine..What a PIA. I used 1 smd green and white LED's for center console depending of what color was originally used. Complaints of it being to bright was the reasoning I went 1 smd. I didn't want to change resistance or sand or....Im satisfied. Now for the cluster you need to use green LED instead of white for the main gauges. If you don't youre cluster will be blue. I also used 1 smd led's for the cluster . Seems ok but haven't done much driving around. I do have 4 smd led I can try if the cluster doesn't seem bright enough, All I can say with this experience is the entire figuring out which way the LED needs to go in drove me nuts until I realized the sockets could go in two ways as well....So even though I would flip the LED sometimes id accidently flip the socket and it still wouldn't work...Learned that lesson after an hour. Biggest issue now...Radio....VERY DIM...And those bulbs are soldered in and not easily changed. Maybe time for an upgrade:O) One day Ill start one of those this is what Ive done to my XKR threads.

 

This is the second video from this source I have used...thanks a million. Inspite of the previous owners use of double sided carpet tape and pieces of duct tape I managed right up until 6.04 on the video "There's 2 connectors, a yellow and a black one with a lever..." I have a feeling mine are held in with a couple of zip ties. I can't really tell from the video and would appreciate a close up photo of these connectors if anyone has them.
Thanks again to all at this forum.

 

This is the yellow harness connector on my 2005 XK8. The black lock lever in the open position.



It rotates towards the harness (top of the photo) to lock.

Graham

 

Bulbs replaced and all work. Now to replace the facia it would appear that the cowling and the wood panel were at one time connected with little tabs and clips. As there are only three left (one I glued back)



would it be in order to epoxy the wood panel to the cowling?

 

EnglishmanLA, I'd be uncomfortable using such a permanent method of attachment (epoxy). I don't have it in front of me so hard to picture. If you need an adhesive, use something like Goop brand glue. Goop will attach it securely, but it is flexable to some degree and can be removed without too much effort if you ever need to.

Heck if Goop doesn't feel right, how about using hide glue. The same stuff they use on $25,000 acoustic guitars today, or used on $400,000+ Martin D-45's from the 1940s (I'd love to find one of them in a garage sale someday). It will harden but can be repeatedly released with heat (that's how they take the top off the guitar).

John

 

Thanks for the suggestions. I have used hide glue (Titebond) on guitars and whilst it can be released with heat, I'm not sure about the weather proof aspect of that adhesive. However, Goop seems like a good thing to try before epoxy. I'll post the results.