XK8 / XKR ( X100 ) 1996 - 2006
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Instrument Pack Bulb Holders - overheating?

  #1  
Old 01-10-2012, 07:26 AM
GGG's Avatar
GGG
GGG is offline
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Durham, UK
Posts: 120,390
Received 16,757 Likes on 12,146 Posts
Default Instrument Pack Bulb Holders - overheating?

All four of my instrument pack illumination bulbs had blown simultaneously. It was on a dark night in France at New Year and 700 miles from home. The four smaller warning light ones were OK and gave just sufficient glow to see the bottom half of the speedometer. I could see anything up to 50 mph or over 130mph!

When I removed the instrument pack to investigate yesterday, the four holders looked blackened as if the bulbs have overheated. Fortunately there was no corresponding marking on the instrument pack itself and the electrical contacts were clean.

Instrument Pack Bulb Holders - overheating?-27-blown-instrument-pack-bulbs.jpg

Is this blackening normal? I can't scrape it off the holders so they have actually charred.

Jaguar don't list the bulbs separately and I had to take 4 x LJA4390BA bulb and holder assemblies. Given the condition of the holders, this was the best approach anyway.

Instrument Pack Bulb Holders - overheating?-28-new-instrument-pack-bulb.jpg

Thanks to Reverend Sam for the video. This saved me loads of time by NOT removing the steering wheel as detailed in the JTIS procedure.

__________________
Graham
2005 XK8 4.2S Coupe
 
  #2  
Old 01-10-2012, 08:49 AM
Jag13cat's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Leawood, KS.
Posts: 140
Received 56 Likes on 43 Posts
Default Instrument Cluster Illumination

GGG;
It definitely appears overheating, electrical spike or short burnt out the bulbs. The major instrument cluster illumination bulbs are supplied electricity by the dimmer control module as are the other bulbs that are illuminated and can be dimmed by the dimmer control knob. Because the bulbs in the instrument pack that were burnt out are in parallel, it appears the problem isolated itself to the major instrument pack bulbs, and permitted power to continue to the other bulbs without harm. Did a fuse blow?
I would be somewhat concerned with the dimmer control module or why the bulbs burnt out.
Hopefully an isolated instance.
 
  #3  
Old 01-10-2012, 09:12 AM
GGG's Avatar
GGG
GGG is offline
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Durham, UK
Posts: 120,390
Received 16,757 Likes on 12,146 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Jag13cat
GGG;
It definitely appears overheating, electrical spike or short burnt out the bulbs. The major instrument cluster illumination bulbs are supplied electricity by the dimmer control module as are the other bulbs that are illuminated and can be dimmed by the dimmer control knob. Because the bulbs in the instrument pack that were burnt out are in parallel, it appears the problem isolated itself to the major instrument pack bulbs, and permitted power to continue to the other bulbs without harm. Did a fuse blow?
I would be somewhat concerned with the dimmer control module or why the bulbs burnt out.
Hopefully an isolated instance.
Jag13cat,

Thanks for the clear description of the setup.

A blown fuse was my first thought when it happened and I checked fuses numbers 4 and 14 in the Driver's side fascia fuse box - neither were blown.

I hadn't previously considered the dimmer but I now see this is protected by a 10 amp fuse number 13 in the Passenger side fascia fuse box. You're absolutely right I should be concerned about the dimmer module. The fuse is useless if it doesn't blow during a spike.

I'll keep an eye on it over the next few days and, if the bulbs go again, will swap out the dimmer.

__________________
Graham,
2005 XK8 4.2S Coupe
 
  #4  
Old 01-10-2012, 03:26 PM
guzzi svt's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Kansas City, MO
Posts: 192
Received 22 Likes on 20 Posts
Default

Fuses are for current spikes. This looks like a voltage spike making the bulbs brighten up until they cooked themselves. 12 volts is 12 volts, the bulbs won’t take any more current than their residence allows them to (V=IR), this looks more like 20 volts. Check you voltage regulator. A dead battery will make your alternator put out too much voltage unless the regulator has a over voltage cut out. My Moto Guzzi 1100 Sport didn’t have one, and when I bump started it with a dead battery it over voltaged and burned up the power chip in the computer, lots of smoke and a dead motorcycle!

A dead battery looks like a dead short to the charging system. The alternator goes ***** to the Wall!

The term used by pilots when accelerating quickly, the throttle is pushed all the way to the panel and the throttle lever (ball) actually touches the panel (wall). Hence, ***** to the wall.
 

Last edited by guzzi svt; 01-10-2012 at 03:51 PM.
  #5  
Old 01-10-2012, 03:34 PM
Alag's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: BURBAGE leicestershire uk
Posts: 303
Received 11 Likes on 11 Posts
Default

Hi Bill love that expression when the alternator goes!!!! not heard that one before.

Cheers Al
 
  #6  
Old 01-10-2012, 05:41 PM
GGG's Avatar
GGG
GGG is offline
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Durham, UK
Posts: 120,390
Received 16,757 Likes on 12,146 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by guzzi svt
Fuses are for current spikes. This looks like a voltage spike making the bulbs brighten up until they cooked themselves. 12 volts is 12 volts, the bulbs won’t take any more current than their residence allows them to (V=IR), this looks more like 20 volts. Check you voltage regulator. A dead battery will make your alternator put out too much voltage unless the regulator has a over voltage cut out. My Moto Guzzi 1100 Sport didn’t have one, and when I bump started it with a dead battery it over voltaged and burned up the power chip in the computer, lots of smoke and a dead motorcycle!

A dead battery looks like a dead short to the charging system. The alternator goes ***** to the Wall!

The term used by pilots when accelerating quickly, the throttle is pushed all the way to the panel and the throttle lever (ball) actually touches the panel (wall). Hence, ***** to the wall.
Bill,

The bulbs are certainly all cooked and the holders look like burned toast

I'll check whether it still has the original battery. If so, at six years old it could be about to fall off the cliff.

How do I test the alternator?

Thanks,
Graham
 
  #7  
Old 01-11-2012, 08:37 AM
Jag13cat's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Leawood, KS.
Posts: 140
Received 56 Likes on 43 Posts
Default Alternator Test

Graham;
A quick test for alternator output is with a voltmeter (multimeter).
With the engine off and the voltmeter probes correctly pinpointed to the positive and negative terminals (not clipped on the cables around the terminals), your voltage reading should be around 12-12.8 volts at the battery.
With the engine at idle and electrical accessories off (no lights, a/c, heat, or radio) and the voltmeter probes connected as before, you should get a higher reading in the 13+ to 14+ volt range indicating the alternator is producing enough electricity to power the electronics and charge the battery.
As stated, this is a quick test without removing the alternator for a bench test in which a more complete test is performed.
 
  #8  
Old 01-11-2012, 09:04 AM
dennisw's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: solihull uk
Posts: 689
Received 42 Likes on 38 Posts
Default

the reason these bulbs have gone like this is because the wrong bulbs have been fitted ..they have tried to get more brightness or were the only ones they could get..my bet is that they are of a higher wattage than recomended and have cooked the bulbs and the plastic seround..if this was an electrical fault and the only one that could exist is that the supply voltage was to high ..all bulbs radio and many other diviced would be burned out..all power comes from the battery..so any high voltage say from a faulty alternator would be regulated by the battery..
fit the correct bulbs..job done
 
  #9  
Old 01-11-2012, 11:22 AM
Spurlee's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Chicago/Southern Wisconsin
Posts: 940
Received 130 Likes on 103 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by guzzi svt
[COLOR=black][FONT=Verdana]
The term used by pilots when accelerating quickly, the throttle is pushed all the way to the panel and the throttle lever (ball) actually touches the panel (wall). Hence, ***** to the wall.
I've heard "***** to the Wall" has a much older origin - steam engine throttle control systems. These systems were regulated by a set of two spinning "*****" connected to a throttling mechanism. At low speeds the ***** revolve slowly on their axis and gravity pulls them down toward the ground. As speed is increased, they spin faster and centrifugal force causes them to rise perpendicular to the axis - toward the wall. When the ***** are "To the wall" the machine is operating at maximum throttle...
 
  #10  
Old 01-11-2012, 11:32 AM
Count_Damonee's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Jupiter Florida
Posts: 286
Received 20 Likes on 16 Posts
Default

Somewhat disappointingly, it has nothing to do with hammers, nails, and a particularly gruesome way of treating an enemy. The expression comes from the world of military aviation. In many planes, control sticks are topped with a ball-shaped grip. One such control is the throttle-to get maximum power you push it all the way forward, to the front of the cockpit, or firewall (so-called because it prevents an engine fire from reaching the rest of the plane). Another control is the joystick-pushing it forward sends a plane into a dive. So, literally pushing the ***** to the (fire)wall would put a plane into a maximum-speed dive, and figuratively going ***** to the wall is doing something all-out, with maximum effort. The phrase is essentially the aeronautical equivalent of the automotive "pedal to the metal
The expression is first found in military-aviation sources that date from the Vietnam War, and it was recorded in the slang of U.S. Air Force Academy cadets in 1969. Although no evidence from the period has come to light, Korean War veterans have also reliably claimed to have used the expression in the 1950s. An earlier parallel is *****-out, in the same sense, which is found in military-aviation sources that date from World War II. (The phrase was also painted on the nose of at least one fighter plane.) In both cases it's likely that the possibility of an anatomical interpretation has helped the expressions gain wider use.


There is a better, much older answer. Though I can't give a reference, I have read it:


In the old days, when steam engines were being developed to generate electric power, way before air planes or the Vietnam war, they were housed inside buildings. Steam engines had two spinning ***** on top that were used to regulate the steam flow and thus keep the speed constant. Those ***** would fly in or out according to how fast it was going. When it was running at top speed, it was said to be "***** to the wall", or "***** out". It is now lewd or sexual, nor does it have anything to do with aviation.


 
  #11  
Old 01-11-2012, 11:32 AM
guzzi svt's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Kansas City, MO
Posts: 192
Received 22 Likes on 20 Posts
Default

Yes, if these were replace with 6 volt bulbs this would be the results too. A higher wattage 12 volt wouldn't burn out the bulbs, they would run hotter though.

These all went out at the same time per his write up. Something happened to the power source. The only two power sources in the car are the battery and the alternator, unless there is some pretty fancy things going on inside the dimmer, normally just a rheostat.
 
  #12  
Old 01-11-2012, 12:26 PM
GGG's Avatar
GGG
GGG is offline
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Durham, UK
Posts: 120,390
Received 16,757 Likes on 12,146 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Jag13cat
Graham;
A quick test for alternator output is with a voltmeter (multimeter).
With the engine off and the voltmeter probes correctly pinpointed to the positive and negative terminals (not clipped on the cables around the terminals), your voltage reading should be around 12-12.8 volts at the battery.
With the engine at idle and electrical accessories off (no lights, a/c, heat, or radio) and the voltmeter probes connected as before, you should get a higher reading in the 13+ to 14+ volt range indicating the alternator is producing enough electricity to power the electronics and charge the battery.
As stated, this is a quick test without removing the alternator for a bench test in which a more complete test is performed.
Jag13cat,

Thanks for the info. I'll get a meter on at the weekend when I get back home.

After 180 miles with several stops and starts today, all bulbs are still OK
 
  #13  
Old 01-11-2012, 12:29 PM
WhiteXKR's Avatar
Veteran Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Arlington VA USA
Posts: 7,652
Received 2,981 Likes on 2,123 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by guzzi svt
Yes, if these were replace with 6 volt bulbs this would be the results too. A higher wattage 12 volt wouldn't burn out the bulbs, they would run hotter though.

These all went out at the same time per his write up. Something happened to the power source. The only two power sources in the car are the battery and the alternator, unless there is some pretty fancy things going on inside the dimmer, normally just a rheostat.

It is an electronic black box...not a rheostat.
 
  #14  
Old 01-11-2012, 12:38 PM
GGG's Avatar
GGG
GGG is offline
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Durham, UK
Posts: 120,390
Received 16,757 Likes on 12,146 Posts
Default

dennisw and Bill,

The car was supplied and serviced by the same Jaguar Dealer from new, taken in PX and then sold direct to me. The PO put it into them for absolutely everything so the bulbs should be correct spec.

However, with the frequenct Jag parts canbe on back order with the factory, you never can be sure. I'm away from home for a few days but will check the old ones when I get back.

Pleased to report the dashboard is lit up like a Christmas Tree again this evening and the dimmer also operates correctly. Makes a change from reading my speed off the SatNav!
 
  #15  
Old 01-11-2012, 12:41 PM
GGG's Avatar
GGG
GGG is offline
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Durham, UK
Posts: 120,390
Received 16,757 Likes on 12,146 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by WhiteXKR
It is an electronic black box...not a rheostat.
"electronic black box" - three words to strike terror into any Jag owner

Is it bolted to the top of the steering column or to the shroud?
 
  #16  
Old 01-11-2012, 12:53 PM
WhiteXKR's Avatar
Veteran Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Arlington VA USA
Posts: 7,652
Received 2,981 Likes on 2,123 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by GGG
"electronic black box" - three words to strike terror into any Jag owner
Not the JagWrangler! More cool black boxes to open and mod.


Originally Posted by GGG
Is it bolted to the top of the steering column or to the shroud?

Righthand corner below the dashboard in both LHD and RHD cars.
 
  #17  
Old 01-11-2012, 01:28 PM
GGG's Avatar
GGG
GGG is offline
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Durham, UK
Posts: 120,390
Received 16,757 Likes on 12,146 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by WhiteXKR
Not the JagWrangler! More cool black boxes to open and mod.

Righthand corner below the dashboard in both LHD and RHD cars.
Enjoys black boxes. The man's mad - totally mad

Thanks,
Graham
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
jagent
XJ6 & XJ12 Series I, II & III
31
06-05-2022 02:18 PM
Buckingham
F-Type ( X152 )
58
07-06-2016 11:09 AM
vwbusbits
XJ XJ8 / XJR ( X308 )
15
10-13-2015 03:43 AM
DFW
F-Type ( X152 )
15
10-01-2015 07:22 PM

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: Instrument Pack Bulb Holders - overheating?



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:22 AM.