I have a two part question. First, where are the jacking points on the 2001 XK8 convertible? I think I've found them but not sure and I have no manual for the car. I see two oval holes, one near the trailing edge of the front tire, the other at the front edge of the rear tire. Are these the jacking point? If yes, Second, using a standard hydraulic floor jack, will those points support the weight of the car? I think yes but I am not positive.

 

This is the wrong bit of the forum (2006 & onwards), but from memory, that sounds like the right locations. And yes, they will support the car - I've seen my XK8 hoisted by those 4 points

 

Welcome to the forum lrichard,

I've moved your question from XK/XKR to XK8/XKR forum. Members here with the same model will be able to help.

Please follow this link New Member Area - Intro a MUST - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum to the New Member Area - Intro a MUST forum and post some info about yourself and your vehicle for all members to see. In return you'll get a proper welcome and some useful advice about posting to the forum.

Graham

 

Hello lrichard

This may help. It is an extract from the 2004.5 owners handbook. I am not sure if the earlier models were different.
Roadside Emergency.docx

Have a look in the stickys section here, there are a few owners handbooks from various models. Very useful information here.

Hope this helps and hope my attachment attaches!

 

Looks like eBay has a manual for your car. Not bad at around $12 and pretty handy if you are out and about with a problem and don't have a computer handy. 1999 2000 2001 2002 Jaguar XKR XK8 Service Repair Manual | eBay

 

If you are using a standard jack, there is a crimped reenforced area about 6 inches behind the front wheels on either side and about 6 inches ahead of the rear wheels.

If you have a floor jack and need the entire front or rear up, there is a brace beam in front covered in plastic with an embossed down-pointing arrow where the jack should be placed. Be aware the plastic may creak a bit. This is normal. I use it all the time.

The rear is a little trickier. There is a spot about 2 feet in from the center with two protruding bolt heads. A block of 2x4 to spread the load and this area works very well.

As always, here is a video from the Rev. Sam:

 

Please use a block of wood or a rubber pad to keep the jack from damaging the anti-corrosion coating (or bending the metal lip/seam).

The wood will also distribute the weight of the car along a larger section of the jack point.

I lift Jaguars all day on my twin post lifts but I always use wood blocks to protect the underbody (customer appreciate this!!!!).

bob gauff

 

Indeed. Thanks, Bob!

 

The complete Vehicle Literature Packs (all the owner manuals) for all Model Years of XK8/XKR are available for download as PDF's from here:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...006-faq-67827/

Graham

 

Thank you Rev. Sam. Your video showing exactly how was more than helpful. I look forward to maybe helping you do something, someday.
Dick, Green Valley, AZ

 

Thanks Graham for the valuable information. I sent for the owner's manual, received and read. Answered lots of questions. I also sent for the "Service Repair Manual" on disk. I received the disk yesterday but have not had a chance to open it up for a "look-see". I will also open the URL you have sent me to order the handbook sets also available. The car mechanics are new to me and right now I am trying to get a handle on some of the mechanisms. Thanks again for the good information.
Dick

 

There is a superb YouTube video by rev Sam where he shows exactly how to jack up both front and rear using a trolley jack and the correct points for the axle stands

 

Did you read post #6?

 

Guys, sorry to be the one to burst the bubble, but the Rev has made a mistake in his video for jacking the back of the car.


The point he uses is not strong in the vertical plane, the correct place to jack is beneath the dif.


I followed Sam's video and ended up deforming the bracket that the strut braces bolt to.

 

Here's Jags advice

 

And for workshop jacks.

 

Thank you so much for your reply. I don't know how my problems keep getting published on Your forum. Please accept my sincere apologies. I will review anything and everything before I do this again.


Your memory is correct as noted by the several replies that pointed to the correct jack points.


Thanks again,
Dick

 

I received a reply directly from Rev Sam and was very much impressed by the depth he took to help "us" newcomers to the forum. I am 78 years old and my joints don't bend as freely as they used to and what Rev. Sam does for us is beyond thanks. He is destine for sainthood into the Jaguar heaven. Can't thank you people enough for the kind replies that my problems have rendered. To those of you that I don't reply to directly, please accept my apologies and know that anything you contribute to folks like me is appreciated.
Hope to meet you on the road...
Dick

 

Sam's advice concerning the rear jacking point is, indeed, not correct and the two bolts in the steel box section should not be used although, most of the time, I would not expect a problem. The solid part of the suspension subframe is slightly further forward and is a solid steel casting.

 

I'm going to throw in my 2 cents here as it seems as close to relevant as I could find. I just finished a total top engine reseal and revamp on my 2004 XK8 convertible and decided to do a thorough trans service on the ZF6hp26 automatic. As I need the car pretty high to gain enough access to remove the mechatronic unit and as I am safety oriented to the extreme I finally devised a way to get the car up enough, not twist the body, not risk it falling or rolling on me, maintain clear space for jack stands appropriately positioned and level the car as needed to properly refill the trans fluid level. I have attached pics of my end result. I did not need to remove the wheels so I first pulled the front up on a pair of ramps. I added ratchet straps through the wheels to the front of the ramps to prevent rearward roll. then I placed a commercial floor jack at both side rear jacking points and raised the car an inch or two per side alternating until the jacks were at max height. Then I placed another set of ramps under the rear tires and lowered the jacks alternating again til the weight was on the wheels. At that point the front was about 1 1/2 inches low in the front so I placed the same jacks at both front corners at the end of the crossmember and raised the "sprung weight" of the car that amount and placed two small stands under the forward lower A arm pivot point and eased the car down on to those. Now the vast majority of the weight of the car is on the tires but a slight bit is at the front stands. Next I placed two more stands at the rear jacking points just touching incase of something I can't imagine. Look hillbilly? Maybe but I'm confident that it's as good as it gets.