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Jaguar Gremlins are out to get me - pending excorcism

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Old 04-09-2011, 12:15 AM
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Default Jaguar Gremlins are out to get me - pending excorcism

Just wanted to post a link to my introduction post in case anyone thought it might be useful in diagnosing and correcting these daemons!

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/n...op-soon-52766/

Still having a lot of weird issues with the car.... I will list them all:

1) Convertible hydraulic line broke in the headliner. Boy that was fun! Gus was an angel sent from heaven, and helped me get the rear quarter windows up right before a storm was coming. I am going to replace the lines - ordered new ones from parts.com for $230 shipped (compared to $300ish on jagbits) and 2 containers of Pentosin CHF 11 from AutohauzAZ ($50 shipped). Replacing those lines will be a great opportunity to steam clean the interior, and get under the seats. I look forward to the job and hope it goes without a hitch. This forum was a wealth of information on rectifying that issue, as well as Gus's website.

a) If I removed both front seats and associated trim, will I be able to remove the carpet from the car? I ask this because sometimes the carpet goes much further up and can't be removed without dash removal. Is this the case here or it's not to hard to get it free?

2 ) PDC speaker makes a long beep when selecting reverse. Searched for this on the forum and found out that it could be caused by one of the four sensors going bad. The forum members suggested listening to the sensors for the ultrasonic pulses, and if they sounded abnormal it was probably that particular sensor causing the problem. Lo and behold, I found one of my sensors was not making the pulsing noises at all. Ordered a new sensor from jagbits.com for about $110.

a) I tried to pull the sensor out of the bumper. I was able to reach my hand in behind the rear bumper and push the sensor out enough to grab it from the outside. It came out about an inch or so but I could not pull it out any further. How do you remove and disconnect this sensor for replacement?

3) The steering column adjustment works for about one second and then cuts off. To make it move all the way up or down, you have to hit the switch multiple times in that direction and then it takes baby steps to get there. Also, if the wheel is on automatic for when you exit/enter the car, the same behavior is present. This leaves the steering wheel all the way up near the top. How can I correct this issue?

4) The indicator for the parking park and the seat belt fastening never lights up on the dash. The car does not warn you about not having your seat belts on and will not warn you while driving with the parking brake on. How can this be fixed?

5) When there is a passenger in the passenger seat, the restraint system light flashes in the instrument cluster and then goes solid. Any ideas on how to fix this? If there is no one sitting in the passenger seat the light doesn't come on to indicate an error.

6) The convertible top seems to fold in at the corner where it meets the rear quarter glass on the passenger side. Anyway to prevent this from happening? I usually have to sit on the passenger side as I raise the convertible to get it to close normally in that area. Nothing else seems affected.

7) Sometimes the car doesn't like to start. When I first got the car, about 15% of the time I would turn the key, everything would come on as normal, but it wouldn't even try to start (no clicks, sounds or anything, just as if you had left it at ignition on and didn't turn further). This went away about about a year. The morning after the convertible fluid spilling disaster, I went to start and the only thing I heard was an audible "click" which I assume was from the starter. It did this three times and then fired right up. It has never done that before, and hasn't done that since. Battery voltage was tested while connected to the car, and was 12.35 - a good reading. Any ideas?

8) There is a creaking/groaning noise that is coming from the front suspension particularly when going up hills or steeper inclines. Control Arm bushings? Any other ideas?

9) The power steering system is leaking out of the bottom from an o-ring. Is that common? The car has 73k miles at the moment. Is that a cheap or expensive fix? Would I have the o-ring replaced or replace the entire unit with a new or manufactured one?

10) I found today that the battery tie down is completely missing from the back of the car. You can lift the battery out of place, it just sits there unmounted. Where is the best place to find out what parts I need and where should I order them? In the BMW world we use RealOEM.com Online BMW Parts Catalog, is there a site like that for Jaguars?

11) How can I determine if the car has bluetooth? If it doesn't is it difficult to add it myself? Is it cost efficient to do it?

Sorry for all the questions.... I would just really love to have the car be perfect like my BMW's, and these are all of the things I've noticed.

Thank you so much and I look forward to being on this forum more often. And hats off to Gus for all his help today! What a great guy!

Here is a picture of her just for fun:
 
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Old 04-09-2011, 06:43 AM
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Originally Posted by mbenvo
3) The steering column adjustment works for about one second and then cuts off. To make it move all the way up or down, you have to hit the switch multiple times in that direction and then it takes baby steps to get there.

Mine does the same thing. A bit of a bother. Wonder what does that? Does it whether I use the steering column adjustment or the "memory" button on the door.


5) When there is a passenger in the passenger seat, the restraint system light flashes in the instrument cluster and then goes solid. Any ideas on how to fix this? If there is no one sitting in the passenger seat the light doesn't come on to indicate an error.

Not sure if this is the cause, but maybe...

I had a tour of the Jaguar technical center in Atlanta a few weeks ago with the local club. The tech talked extensively about the restraint system in these cars. It is quite something. Three things can happen with the passenger airbag in a crash. It can deploy full power, it can deploy partial power, or it can not deploy at all. Those things that look like little speakers on the passenger A piller, B piller and up by the mirror are ultrasound detecters. Sort of like in a burglar alarm system. If they sense a passenger near the dash the bag will either go off at less than full power or not all. I believe it senses the weight of the passenger also. It also senses if there is a baby seat on the passenger seat. It the light on the dash is lit, that means that one of the criteria for diminished airbag deployment has been met.

Could your passenger be meeting one of these criteria? Looking at the picture of your car, it does not look like the passenger seat is too close to the dash, so I don't know if this is a factor.

Maybe one way to test is to get someone to sit in the passenger seat, put the seat all the way back, have the passenger sit properly (not leaning forward) and see if the light goes off.

Jack
 
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Old 04-09-2011, 09:23 AM
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Mbenvo
I really can't help you on your problems but the car is gorgeous looking great color combo. While your mounting your battery make sure it is vented, many people replace them without venting the battery.
Doug
2001 XKR Silverstone
 
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Old 04-09-2011, 12:32 PM
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Blkcat: I'm starting to think that it's a bad relay or something... I'm just not sure where to check. Does anyone have a pinout of the fues boxes/relays?

I downloaded the JITS software, but havent had a chance to install it. It seems like power is momentarially applied and then the connection is lost.. I hope to fix that because it's nice having the wheel go up for more space.

As far as the airbag warning, thank you for all of that information. I am impressed with the cars sophistication. In my case, the seat is all the way back, so I don't think it has to do with passengers being too close. I disconnected the wire for the passenger airbag sensor, and it does the same thing as if it were connected and someone was sitting in the seat. Maybe it's the occupancy mat itself? I have no clue on this one.

RCSign: Thank you for the kind words! Can you please explain more about the battery venting? I know on my BMW's there is a little thing that connects to the battery that vents to outside of the car. However, on the battery in the Jag, I don't see a connection for it. Do you know where the vent tube is located? I certainly want to hook it back up.

I wish all mechanics were as meticulous as I am. Instead they seem to break more than they fix!
 
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Old 04-09-2011, 01:53 PM
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The color and those rims are great.
 
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Old 04-09-2011, 02:40 PM
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Mbenvo
The Vent tube will connect to the battery and goes out side your trunk. The vent is on the top of the battery(a lot of times they won't put the proper battery in when they replace them. I'm at work right now so I can tell you exactly where it is at. When I get home later, be sometime tonight I'll look, unless somebody answers you before I do.
Doug
2001 XKR Silverstone
 
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Old 04-09-2011, 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by mbenvo

a) If I removed both front seats and associated trim, will I be able to remove the carpet from the car? I ask this because sometimes the carpet goes much further up and can't be removed without dash removal. Is this the case here or it's not to hard to get it free?
with the door sills removed, center console, rear seat cushions...maybe the front kick panel...I think that, with your front seats and the trim on the edge of the door will allow you to remove the carpet
2 ) PDC speaker makes a long beep when selecting reverse. Searched for this on the forum and found out that it could be caused by one of the four sensors going bad. The forum members suggested listening to the sensors for the ultrasonic pulses, and if they sounded abnormal it was probably that particular sensor causing the problem. Lo and behold, I found one of my sensors was not making the pulsing noises at all. Ordered a new sensor from jagbits.com for about $110.
there are two vertical bolts that secure the rear bumper to the frame, and then there are two small securing nuts that hold/adjust the bumper to the fenders, located just aft of the tires. Loosen those, and remove the two bolts, and the bumper can then slide back, and off the car..there are 'guides rails' so to speak that it slides in. Disconnect the side marker lamps while your loosening the adjuster nuts. You can slide the bumper off, then disconnect each sensor...and that's all there is to taking it off. Careful, it is rather flexible, and flops around alot when its not held on at the edges anymore.
a) I tried to pull the sensor out of the bumper. I was able to reach my hand in behind the rear bumper and push the sensor out enough to grab it from the outside. It came out about an inch or so but I could not pull it out any further. How do you remove and disconnect this sensor for replacement?
see above
3) The steering column adjustment works for about one second and then cuts off. To make it move all the way up or down, you have to hit the switch multiple times in that direction and then it takes baby steps to get there. Also, if the wheel is on automatic for when you exit/enter the car, the same behavior is present. This leaves the steering wheel all the way up near the top. How can I correct this issue?
that is a common issue, definitely look for the various threads linked to that item in the xk8-xkr FAQ thread...very top of this subforum thread list. My dealer changed the entire assembly to correct the reach function (tilt worked ok) but its basically the plastic gearing inside that is the issue.
4) The indicator for the parking park and the seat belt fastening never lights up on the dash. The car does not warn you about not having your seat belts on and will not warn you while driving with the parking brake on. How can this be fixed?
no seat belt chime, no light for a visual warning to buckle up...so you must be on your toes to do this yourself and check your passenger yourself...groping your date to check for seat belt use is perfectly acceptable in this case
5) When there is a passenger in the passenger seat, the restraint system light flashes in the instrument cluster and then goes solid. Any ideas on how to fix this? If there is no one sitting in the passenger seat the light doesn't come on to indicate an error.
count the number of times the light blinks before going solid, and you'll see a pattern...like 2 quick, pause, 4 quick, pause then repeat. There is a guide on the forums for what the combination 2-4 means, for instance. It may be a simple fix like the weight sensor in the seat cushion being disconnected, or sometning like the spatial sensor not working correctly...that one in the a-pillar or behind the passenger seat. Those are more complicated. Alot of times, troubleshooting these system codes are best left to the dealer due to the safety concerns and sensitive nature of any repair work.
6) The convertible top seems to fold in at the corner where it meets the rear quarter glass on the passenger side. Anyway to prevent this from happening? I usually have to sit on the passenger side as I raise the convertible to get it to close normally in that area. Nothing else seems affected.
we need some pics, or a video to see what your trying to describe. It could be a damaged weatherstrip seal or the rear qtr window needs adjusted...there are three (3) adjustments to that one rear quarter window alone...on the driver and passenger window, you have four (4) to mess with and screw up. (if so inclined)
7) Sometimes the car doesn't like to start. When I first got the car, about 15% of the time I would turn the key, everything would come on as normal, but it wouldn't even try to start (no clicks, sounds or anything, just as if you had left it at ignition on and didn't turn further). This went away about about a year. The morning after the convertible fluid spilling disaster, I went to start and the only thing I heard was an audible "click" which I assume was from the starter. It did this three times and then fired right up. It has never done that before, and hasn't done that since. Battery voltage was tested while connected to the car, and was 12.35 - a good reading. Any ideas?
sounds like a nuetral safety switch in the g-jate assembly, keeps the car from being started in anything other than P or N, sometimes this just requires an adjustment of the switch (indy shop can do this for a couple hours work). Mine did this for awhile, and I found that a simple 'jiggle' of the gear shift lever and it fired right up after. If you can't get the jiggle to work, then move the selector to N, and try again. Its annoying, but not detrimental unless the switch totally fails.
8) There is a creaking/groaning noise that is coming from the front suspension particularly when going up hills or steeper inclines. Control Arm bushings? Any other ideas?
creaking/groaning huh...sounds like it may be the upper shock mounts or sway bar bushing. I'd do the sway bar bushings first...$13 each, and you can do it yourself in about 30 minutes. Theres a pictorial link in that FAQ thread I mentioned above. If that doesn't solve it, time to look into those upper mounts. Common rubber bushing failure between two plates that keep the shock/spring tower attached to the body.
9) The power steering system is leaking out of the bottom from an o-ring. Is that common? The car has 73k miles at the moment. Is that a cheap or expensive fix? Would I have the o-ring replaced or replace the entire unit with a new or manufactured one?
Also had experience with this one, on the low pressure line on the passenger side. Not sure its the same location as yours, so how about a pic of that one too? My indy shop replaed the whole line, since it included the little 'cooler' section, for $300 parts and labor. Careful with that power steering fluid, if it gets on any rubber bushings (lower arms) that'll eat it up and cause you alot of trouble later. Get that fixed soon.
11) How can I determine if the car has bluetooth? If it doesn't is it difficult to add it myself? Is it cost efficient to do it?
sorry,can't help you here. whitexkr is the expert on this subject.
Sorry for all the questions.... I would just really love to have the car be perfect like my BMW's, and these are all of the things I've noticed.
Download the parts manuals in the FAQ there, and use our forum sponsors - Gaudin Jaguar and Nalley Jaguar for your parts needs, they by far are the cheapest source for OEM products...and I've looked extensively online for the last 4 years trying to find the best deal; I've gotten 90% of all my stuff from them together. Bilstein shocks, though OEM part, I sourced online at 1/3 the dealer cost...stuff like that doesn't count. but if you need a purge valve, expansion tank, heater hose, bushings, t-stat parts, etc...these two are where I shop. Guadin has very cool interactive, online parts database (check the link above) and Nalley Jaguar is always within + 10 of them when you mention jaguarforum membership (15% off), but they offer free shipping for anything over $25 so sometimes, that shipping savings makes all the difference. So far, Nalley has never failed to get me a part that I needed. For instance, I was told a new armrest in my trim color was not available from a british parts ebay seller. Called Dan at Nalley, and he told me it was simply in production over in the UK, and he showed an approximate 2 week wait until they were ready to be distributed to dealers.
Thank you so much and I look forward to being on this forum more often. And hats off to Gus for all his help today! What a great guy!
yah, Gus rocks.
 
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Old 04-09-2011, 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by mbenvo
11) How can I determine if the car has bluetooth? If it doesn't is it difficult to add it myself? Is it cost efficient to do it?
Your car did not have an option for bluetooth...only for a hard-wired factory cell-phone.

AFAIK, there is no commercial source for a cable to adapt the factory wiring to the popular bluetooth units. Several members have successfully wired popular bluetooth units into the factory phone audio and mute. Search bluetooth in this forum and you will find those threads.

I am helping one member at the moment make a custom cable that plugs into the factory phone connector and the Alpine AI-Net audio bus to interface with a Parrot MKi9200 for phone and for music from his smartphone. Once this work is complete, I will post a detailed writeup, including the custom cable construction information.
 
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Old 04-09-2011, 07:29 PM
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Mbenvo
I just looked at the battery the vent runs across the top just underneath the hold down. The vent tube, (about 1/4" black) exits on the top front and heads towards the wheel well. Hope this helps
Doug
2001 XKR Silverstone
Also I've had excellent results with Nalley Jaguar
 

Last edited by RCSign; 04-09-2011 at 07:31 PM.
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Old 04-11-2011, 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by mbenvo
I tried to pull the sensor out of the bumper. I was able to reach my hand in behind the rear bumper and push the sensor out enough to grab it from the outside. It came out about an inch or so but I could not pull it out any further. How do you remove and disconnect this sensor for replacement?
They don't come out through the outside. There is a soft coil spring on the inside between the bumper and the plug to help keep the sensor tensioned flush with the bumper. In theory you disconnect the sensor, turn it 90 degrees ANTI-clockwise and it comes out of the shroud from the inside. I found that with the road dirt and grime they were too stuck in and I couldn't get enough of a grip on them in the tight space to release them.

Anyway, the point of the story - I was getting the 5-second beep but couldn't hear anything from any of the sensors. I could hear some on my XJR100 so knew my hearing was (just lol) up to it. I suspected maybe the module but couldn't find one to try to borrow to try to eliminate it so did the next best thing - pulled the connectors off the back of the sensors, cleaned all plugs and sensor sockets with switch cleaner, did the same with the module connectors and for two days now I have no beeping and my reverse parking sensors work. It was a bit tight getting to the plugs but jacking the rear wheel up (putting on axle stand) helped a lot. I'm very happy now.

Don't write off that sensor - it could just be the plug!

Jim
 
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Old 04-17-2011, 11:38 PM
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Thank you everyone for all the info... This forum is a godsend!!

Today (and yesterday) I spent hours taking the entire interior apart. Got everything out including the seats, carpet etc.

Today ran the new hydraulic lines, drained and refilled the pump, and the top now works again!!! Now after vacuuming out the interior, steam cleaning the carpets, etc, I will take part in the daunting task of putting it back together. You can see where the line was swelling and buldging right by the fitting. I had to take the latch assembly out to clean all of the pentosin out of there.

The info on the restraint system was fascinating. I thought that those were speakers, but upon close inspection it's clear that they are ultrasonic sensors. I still have the warning light when someone sits in the seat. I will post up the error code later. I wound up folding in and buying the Jaguar interface from Autoenginuity, so I can read scan the modules.



I ordered a new PDC sensor and will see if that fixes the problem. I haven't had much luck getting the bumper off but I was in a low light condition.

I will be updating the thread with my progress over the next week and will certainly have some questions along the way. I am also anxious to wire the rear window switch in and bought all of the parts today at the auto store.

Still on my list to complete:
1) Finish zip tying new hydraulic lines
2) Replace PDC sensor and see if system works
3) Replace cigarette lighter housing
4) Figure out battery tie down and add vent hose
5) Figure out whats going on with the fuel sender. One was replaced at the dealer when they replaced one of the fuel pumps.. Does this car have two fuel pumps? Can i replace the sender on one of them without replacing the whole pump? Any tips on testing/diagnosing this issue?
6) replace parking brake shoes (cousin burned them up)
7) theres more but for now that is a pretty long list

Here are some pics from todays festivities:
Latch assembly before removal (you can see the residue oil):




Assembly removed with closeups:





Over saturated line close up:



Top view with assembly removed:



Old hydraulic lines pulled out still connected to pump:



Trunk area:



Pump removed:


Close up of pump:




Well thats it for now. More to come... shes definitely going to be a work in progress the next couple weeks. And once shes perfect all I have to do is enjoy!
 
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Old 04-17-2011, 11:55 PM
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Edit: I forgot to mention.. When I went to take the passenger seat out, I removed the front two bolts and then tried to move the seat back to get the rear two bolts....

Of course... as the Jaguar gods deem... the seat didn't move. The only part of the seat that works is the headrest adjustment. Switched the seat control module out from the drivers side and that worked... Thank god they are switchable modules.. I opened the module up and noticed that there was some corosion on some of the traces. I think it happened from a couple of weeks ago when the car was parked outside for 15 minutes and a little bit of water leaked in through the passenger door seal. I am going to try and repair it because I know the dealer is going to make me bend over if I want a new one! Anyone know the part number for the convertible seal on the passenger side?

I thought I had enough problems but this just adds another
 
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Old 04-18-2011, 12:06 PM
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As you noticed, the side 'weatherstripping' is in three sections. My middle section miraculously lost about a 3-inch chunk of it...very odd, no tearing at all...just a clean line?!? Anyway, there was a guy on the for sale classifieds that has a vert with all of the weatherstripping ready to be shipped to a buyer...when I contacted him, the buyer was not responding, so there was a chance he would sell me just my piece I needed. After a few more attempts, I never heard anything back, so sucked it up and called Dan at Nalley jaguar, that part cost me $100 for a 6-inch piece of rubber with some fancy grooves in it. I had no choice.
 
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Old 04-18-2011, 08:31 PM
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Originally Posted by h20boy
As you noticed, the side 'weatherstripping' is in three sections. My middle section miraculously lost about a 3-inch chunk of it...very odd, no tearing at all...just a clean line?!? Anyway, there was a guy on the for sale classifieds that has a vert with all of the weatherstripping ready to be shipped to a buyer...when I contacted him, the buyer was not responding, so there was a chance he would sell me just my piece I needed. After a few more attempts, I never heard anything back, so sucked it up and called Dan at Nalley jaguar, that part cost me $100 for a 6-inch piece of rubber with some fancy grooves in it. I had no choice.
That is strange! I had to replace the same seal and it had a chunk torn out of it too. Most expensive rubber I've ever bought!!
 
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Old 04-18-2011, 10:58 PM
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Here is a picture of my offending seal - looks like a semi-clean line + a chunk... I get the best of both worlds. What I'm not happy about is the seat module is $350 used and $600 new... That's absolute robbery. I hope I can fix mine or find one for cheaper.




This seal from jagbits is $189 bucks... Anyone know where to get it any cheaper?

I have been cleaning the interior carpets of the jag with a pet stain remover I bought a couple days ago and it's an extremely tedious task..

I just sent Gus a PM with this question but maybe you guys have some insight on it:

The dealer replaced a fuel pump, sender, and sealing ring 15000 miles ago. When my tank goes to between 3/4 and 7/8, the needle drops to empty. I heard that there are two senders on this car? What should I do to try and diagnose/fix the issue?

I saw there was some method on the XJ that lets you read raw fuel from both senders in the cluster. I'm not sure if this car has something like that too.

I don't think its a failure of the cluster itself... Should I just replace the sender the dealer already replaced (if there aren't 2)?

And of course I had another question but it walked away on me.. Thanks everyone!!
 
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Old 04-19-2011, 04:28 AM
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^ that looks suprisingly alot like my damage too! Lew, there must be a common link to the cause...no idea where to look for a theory on that though.

Anyone know where to get it any cheaper?
Yes, Nalley Jaguar - $100, Gaudin Jaguar - $100

Jagbits has always been higher than our forum sponsors above who deal in larger volume part sales (obviously with the internet and forum referrals) so they do not rely on the higher markups as much.

sorry, can't offer any help on the fuel sender issue.
 
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Old 04-19-2011, 06:22 PM
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Originally Posted by h20boy
^ that looks suprisingly alot like my damage too! Lew, there must be a common link to the cause...no idea where to look for a theory on that though.
I wonder if the seal is not kept lubricated that the window would stick to it and just rip it. I keep my rubbers lubricated!!
 
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Old 04-19-2011, 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by mbenvo
The dealer replaced a fuel pump, sender, and sealing ring 15000 miles ago. When my tank goes to between 3/4 and 7/8, the needle drops to empty. I heard that there are two senders on this car? What should I do to try and diagnose/fix the issue?
When it drops to empty, does the low fuel light come on??
 
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Old 04-19-2011, 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by hlgeorge
When it drops to empty, does the low fuel light come on??
Yes, in fact - the fuel light is the first thing that appears on, and then the gauge drops to Empty..
 
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Old 04-19-2011, 08:36 PM
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Sounds like the tank float is binding and when there is enough weight on the float after the fuel level drops, it drops suddenly.
 


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