Just Changed Upper Shock Mounts,,,BUT
#1
Just Changed Upper Shock Mounts,,,BUT
while 80% of the suspension noise is gone, am still getting a periodic clunk on right side from the odd bump in the road.
Car only has 41K on it, and it was a Florida car. No rust or corrosion on suspension, and upper and lower control arms cleaned up nice using waterless hand cleaner.
Control arm bushing appeared good, and could not detect any play or softness.
However the lower shock bushings appeared a little soft, especially the right side, but could not detect any metal to metal areas.
Am I correct that the problem is the lower shock bushings?
Do they simply press out using the proper mandrels?
In the USA, the right side of the car tends to take more beating especially if it's driven in the city where most road openings and grates are on the right.
Appreciate any input for this new XK8 owner.
p.s.
Sure am glad I had a lift. That really saved my back and old knees.
Even used it to help compress the springs when my spring compressor was getting to it's threaded limits.
Thanks All
Jack
Car only has 41K on it, and it was a Florida car. No rust or corrosion on suspension, and upper and lower control arms cleaned up nice using waterless hand cleaner.
Control arm bushing appeared good, and could not detect any play or softness.
However the lower shock bushings appeared a little soft, especially the right side, but could not detect any metal to metal areas.
Am I correct that the problem is the lower shock bushings?
Do they simply press out using the proper mandrels?
In the USA, the right side of the car tends to take more beating especially if it's driven in the city where most road openings and grates are on the right.
Appreciate any input for this new XK8 owner.
p.s.
Sure am glad I had a lift. That really saved my back and old knees.
Even used it to help compress the springs when my spring compressor was getting to it's threaded limits.
Thanks All
Jack
#2
#3
Will check them.
Thanks
#4
#5
#6
Thanks Guys
Ball joints felt tight.
Think what I'll do is drive car with sway bar disconnected. This will possibly eliminate one problem.
If noise is still there will change lower shock bushings. At this point don't feel like removing springs again to change shocks which are working fine.
Don't think I've ever come across a spring/shock setup like this before which tends to put an immense amount of strain on the shock attachment points.
Thanks again
Jack
Ball joints felt tight.
Think what I'll do is drive car with sway bar disconnected. This will possibly eliminate one problem.
If noise is still there will change lower shock bushings. At this point don't feel like removing springs again to change shocks which are working fine.
Don't think I've ever come across a spring/shock setup like this before which tends to put an immense amount of strain on the shock attachment points.
Thanks again
Jack
#7
I think if you attempt to drive with the sway bar unbolted you will hear even heavier clunking. They seem to be an integral part of the suspension. The bushings are cheap and easy. And without removing them you may not be able to determine if they are worn inside the capture point creating metal to metal clunk.
Mine looked ok untill they were removed. Replaced and the clunk is an old memory.
Mine looked ok untill they were removed. Replaced and the clunk is an old memory.
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#8
I think if you attempt to drive with the sway bar unbolted you will hear even heavier clunking. They seem to be an integral part of the suspension. The bushings are cheap and easy. And without removing them you may not be able to determine if they are worn inside the capture point creating metal to metal clunk.
Mine looked ok untill they were removed. Replaced and the clunk is an old memory.
Mine looked ok untill they were removed. Replaced and the clunk is an old memory.
By disconnecting the sway bar links, the bar will essentially be just sitting there without any ties to the suspension. A quick drive then will tell me if the sway bar is the culprit or do I have to dig deeper.
Not living in Florida like you do, and not having a heated garage, I can live with the clunk for a while, or until the curiosity gets the better of me and I don the thermal underwear and grab some wrenches.
I'm sure it will be the latter.
#9
Disconnected one of the sway bar links and took car for a ride.
All clunking was gone.
Ordered new sway bar bushings. Will have them tonight.
No problem, (well a little bit working from under the car) removing right sway bar bushing. Rubber looks very tired and cracked.
Can't get to the front bolt holding the left bushing on without severely distorting the A/C hoses. Outside edge of rubber bushing looks a lot better than the right one, so at this point going to take a chance and just replace the right bushing.
Did read how a forum member was able to get at this bolt, but can't locate the thread right now.
Will find it when I have to
Cheers
Jack
All clunking was gone.
Ordered new sway bar bushings. Will have them tonight.
No problem, (well a little bit working from under the car) removing right sway bar bushing. Rubber looks very tired and cracked.
Can't get to the front bolt holding the left bushing on without severely distorting the A/C hoses. Outside edge of rubber bushing looks a lot better than the right one, so at this point going to take a chance and just replace the right bushing.
Did read how a forum member was able to get at this bolt, but can't locate the thread right now.
Will find it when I have to
Cheers
Jack
#10
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USCANAM (11-29-2016)
#11
I did just the missing right bushing on mine. Oil drips on it and the rubber breaks down.
Taking off the Airfilter box makes access a little easier from the top, and the box comes out easy. I replaced mine going at it from the top and bottom, which gave me a better picture of what I was doing, because I did it on low ramps and feeling around under the car.
Taking off the Airfilter box makes access a little easier from the top, and the box comes out easy. I replaced mine going at it from the top and bottom, which gave me a better picture of what I was doing, because I did it on low ramps and feeling around under the car.
#12
Disconnected one of the sway bar links and took car for a ride.
All clunking was gone.
Ordered new sway bar bushings. Will have them tonight.
No problem, (well a little bit working from under the car) removing right sway bar bushing. Rubber looks very tired and cracked.
Can't get to the front bolt holding the left bushing on without severely distorting the A/C hoses. Outside edge of rubber bushing looks a lot better than the right one, so at this point going to take a chance and just replace the right bushing.
Did read how a forum member was able to get at this bolt, but can't locate the thread right now.
Will find it when I have to
Cheers
Jack
All clunking was gone.
Ordered new sway bar bushings. Will have them tonight.
No problem, (well a little bit working from under the car) removing right sway bar bushing. Rubber looks very tired and cracked.
Can't get to the front bolt holding the left bushing on without severely distorting the A/C hoses. Outside edge of rubber bushing looks a lot better than the right one, so at this point going to take a chance and just replace the right bushing.
Did read how a forum member was able to get at this bolt, but can't locate the thread right now.
Will find it when I have to
Cheers
Jack
#13
Update
OK, changed both sway bar bushings and front suspension is clunk free.
As posted earlier that I wasn't going to change the left one, I was able with a block of wood and a metal bar to move the A/C hoses inboard a bit and had clear access to the clamping bolts.
Using a hint from a poster, I taped the socket and extensions together.
Was able to do right side from underneath using a ratchet handle that when you rotate the handle, it turns the drive.
As posted earlier that I wasn't going to change the left one, I was able with a block of wood and a metal bar to move the A/C hoses inboard a bit and had clear access to the clamping bolts.
Using a hint from a poster, I taped the socket and extensions together.
Was able to do right side from underneath using a ratchet handle that when you rotate the handle, it turns the drive.
The following users liked this post:
RaceDiagnostics (11-30-2016)