A year ago, one Fob worked very weakly, the other not at all. Replaced the CR2016 as per existing and manual, nothing. Been playing with them for a while, remote tester arrived today and neither is transmitting. Is there anyone who can repair these? Radio shops are few and far between these days.

 

If ALL the 'buttons' fail to transmit, it might be a 'dead' unit.
If ANY buttons work, then you need take it apart and clean the rubber 'contacts' and circuit board.

 

Nothing works. Have cleaned it many times with alcohol and contact cleaner, no visible damage. Just tried putting aluminum foil under the keys - nothing.

 

Rex, 2 units no transmit same time? That is too unusual imo.

Look I have to ask, any chance batteries in backwards?

Edit: the 2 batteries are in series. Ensure good contact both sides both batteries, a pencil eraser is perfect.

Got a DVM? What voltage do batteries show?

Got a way to test the RF Tester? FYI if in USA with Comcast cable - their remotes are RF for all CATV transmission.

When you mentioned Aluminum did you mean you bypassed the rubber/carbon to try to activate by placing Al on the printed ckt board?
If yes, I love it but Al is a shitty conductor. Bend a copper wire or better yet, use a stranded Cu wire and try again (speaker wire?).

These remotes are hardy, I once put 1 through a full washing machine cycle (never washed a pair of pants w/o checking pockets again!) - no effect.

For the record both batteries sit face up in the rear panel of the remote facing the back of circuit board.

John

 

I thought I was only one who pulled that bone-headed move. Even had the “double rinse”
cycle on. Like you, the remote worked fine afterwards, plus it was really really clean. Even the key didn’t appear to suffer any effects from the ordeal.

I did take the battery out and let the remote dry out for a day before trying it .


Z

 

All batteries are reading 3.3v, all contacts clean. It is just a small radio transmitter, there must be someone somewhere that can fix tiny radios?

 

It appeared that the buttons had some sort of conductive material on them to engage a circuit when pushed against the circuit board. Tried putting some aluminum foil under the buttons but had no effect at all. copper foil would be better but I don't believe that is the issue anymore. I really do not know. Key works - that is probably how I will use it, forget about convenience.

 

Okay
J

 

it’s a good thing to be using all the manual key locks frequently anyway. The trunk lock in particular will freeze up if not used often. Door locks are likely no different. Not a hardship to use the door lock manually, especially when it helps to ward off more maintenance in the future.

Z

 

After many unhappy hours trying to get my door locks to work and stop bouncing I have removed the solenoids and replaced the system with an after market unit ..2 remotes 2 solenoids and a controller ..happy days and all for $20

 

That would work but I would like the Fob to disable Valet Mode and the Security system.

 

Might just have to buy a third... Did you run the NEW fob thru the pairing cycle to the car, as per the instructions?

 

Have gone through the programming several times, that is what led me to buying the remote tester. Neither is transmitting. Buy a new one - if I could find one for under $400, I would.

 

Any North American keyfob transmitter from either the 1997-2000 XK8 or 1998-2000 XJ8 will work.

 

The answer is YES! Found and electronics tech shop willing to look at it. $200 later, both work perfectly and at great distance. Cannot paraphrase what they did but essentially both are now totally rebuilt and with a warranty!

 

I bought a pair of aftermarket fobs from Ebay for $20 and then programed and they work fine on my 2006 XK8.