Leaking Fuel Rail pulse damper - OMG noo!
#61
#62
#63
#64
Thanks strv8 and fmertz I took out all the fuel injectors gave them a clean and checked the seals to the fuel rail and they all look good added a little silicon grease for reassembly. I will take apart dampers and check seals tomorrow. Also thought about fuel pressure switch I actually took it out to inspect it, where was yours leaking from, doesn't look like any kind of seal on thread.
I do want to be sure I have it figured out before putting her back together. Also what are the correct part numbers for valley hoses the one closest to driver (LHD) is correct the passenger side I purchased AJ86326 which is not the right one.
Cheers
Paul
I do want to be sure I have it figured out before putting her back together. Also what are the correct part numbers for valley hoses the one closest to driver (LHD) is correct the passenger side I purchased AJ86326 which is not the right one.
Cheers
Paul
#65
#66
There is a fuel temp sensor and a fuel pressure sensor. The leak on my car was from the pressure sensor. It leaked from the "body". As the smell occurred, it tried to locate the leak (nose, fingers) until I came across the wet body of the sensor. It looks like the sensor can be taken apart (possibly), as the shell appears to have snaps, but I did not attempt anything. The sensor fits into the rail with 2 tiny o-rings. As the entire body was wet with gas, I figured the damage was beyond these cheap o-rings. Besides, I am allergic to fuel fires, and figured a properly sealed fuel sensor was money well spent!
There is also a fuel temp sensor (I think it helps for hot restart, vapor lock, etc.). I saw it on the diagram, but know nothing about it.
Best of luck in your project.
There is also a fuel temp sensor (I think it helps for hot restart, vapor lock, etc.). I saw it on the diagram, but know nothing about it.
Best of luck in your project.
#69
#70
Thanks, ordered some this morning. The thought of taking all this apart again if seal only fix didn't work just isn't worth it.
Got to detail the engine while waiting, also did valve cover gaskets, valley hoses and putting a powerhouse pulley on after rebuilding snout. Will be nice when complete.
Thanks again for your help.
Got to detail the engine while waiting, also did valve cover gaskets, valley hoses and putting a powerhouse pulley on after rebuilding snout. Will be nice when complete.
Thanks again for your help.
#71
Hi guys!
As the originator of this thread, I get about one email each month about those pesky leaking dampers. My last word advice: Please don't waste your time trying to refurbish a flawed and totally unneeded system.
You're going to be taking the top of the engine (SC variety) anyway, so don't risk the ton of work to do the job twice. Pull the fuel rails and have the damper cups tig welded closed. You car absolutely does NOT NEED them.
You're going to be taking the top of the engine (SC variety) anyway, so don't risk the ton of work to do the job twice. Pull the fuel rails and have the damper cups tig welded closed. You car absolutely does NOT NEED them.
#72
#73
Just an update. I finished the job a couple of days ago part # AJ83838 (pulsation damper for 4.2) got them for about $113 each, did the trick, no more gas smell.
Also replaced valley hoses while I was in there, I know a lot of people worry about these, I have to say mine looked like they had a lot of life left in them at 88,000 miles, still while you are in there you would be foolish not to.
Also rebuilt supercharger and installed 2.5 lbs pulley and cam cover gaskets so should be set for a while.
Thanks again for all your help, anyone with the same issue that ends up reading this thread don't fret, there is an answer without the need to buy a complete fuel rail.
Thanks again all!
Also replaced valley hoses while I was in there, I know a lot of people worry about these, I have to say mine looked like they had a lot of life left in them at 88,000 miles, still while you are in there you would be foolish not to.
Also rebuilt supercharger and installed 2.5 lbs pulley and cam cover gaskets so should be set for a while.
Thanks again for all your help, anyone with the same issue that ends up reading this thread don't fret, there is an answer without the need to buy a complete fuel rail.
Thanks again all!
#75
I continually see this issue among these cars, with numerous solutions. I "fixed" mine several years ago with fuel tank sealant and epoxy. It lasted a few years and has just started leaking again. I am leaning towards elimination of the component this time... cut 'em off and weld it closed....
#76
It has only been a few weeks, but after damper replacement still great, weather turned colder too which was always the worst time. I would anticipate at least the 14 years the original ones lasted. Also once I replaced them and saw how the new ones pressed in, I do believe the problem is with the blue o ring, you can see the change in color where they have been seated. If it were possible to get the exact same seal, next time around I would try that. First attempt, the thought of having to do it all again was too much of a risk I didn't want to take and first start up was a nervous one.
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