To the naysayers, please look at the lighting coming from the manufacturers including Jaguar. Everyone is switching to LED lighting for the main reason of SAFETY! The cool looks is an added bonus.

 

Another one drinks the kool-aid!

Doug

 

I want THAT!

 

The part I used was: C503B-RAS-CY0B0AA1
624nm, 15deg viewing angle, 14680mcd brightness, also made by Cree

C503B-RAS-CY0B0AA1 Cree Inc | C503B-RAS-CY0B0AA1-ND | DigiKey

Not the greatest picture but it's way brighter than the non functional one was and the 15deg viewing angle isn't a problem behind the diffuser.

 

On the convertibles the leds are actually white (with red lens), so have ordered a white cree variant based on similar specs you mentioned (assuming they are indeed similar...) with some more luminens (couldn't resist), but they are so cheap I can afford a miss buy.

Can you let me know what you had to do with the resistor? Was it needed to create a higher resistance to fool the body processor the lights are on?

 

The LEDs are in a clear case but emit red light, the part I listed is the same (624nm), just brighter. You won't want to use actual white emitting LEDs because you will end up with a mostly white (probably a little pink) brake light.

The resistors are necessary to make sure the current through the LEDs is correct so that they don't burn up. The body processor doesn't pay any attention to the 3rd light at all.

I can't find the circuit diagram I drew at the time, but I recall the circuit layout was a bit odd looking. You can follow the traces in the board to figure it out and then calculate the parallel and series resistance with the LEDs to determine the resistor size you need.

 

couldn't resist, could you?

 

Guess not. I typed it, thought of deleting it, then hit the "submit" before deleting. Oh well, sometimes I just can't help myself.

I would just rather see honesty when it comes to these things, e.g., "I want it because it looks cool and is the latest thing and, by the way, if it might provide more safety then an added bonus"

Doug

 

H2Oboy

Do you have any details of this very useful sounding modification?

 

smoggy, I've got several different led units and wire connectors enroute from overseas, and i'll do a little writeup afterward for those who want to add the lighting to their cars. Give me another 2 weeks before they arrive and I've had time to do some initial testing. Space is tight under those buttons and I can't interfere with the button contacts. I am confident it will work, with few modifications necessary.

apologies for the slight tangent to your thread frog.

 

No problem, all bulb talk is good

 

With my convertible, the red cover is glued closed, so you can't get to the circuit board without breaking it, need to find my hamer...

 

A large crescent wrench will also work if your hammer is unavailable.

 

I replaced the 2 dual filament bulbs in my (U.S.) passenger side tail light assembly to compare new bulbs with old. These are the outer most bulbs at the bottom of the assembly.

Bulbs from "Super Bright": see post #15 in this thread from Frog. The pic's look a little orangy but they are bright red in reality. You can see the difference in brightness in the first pic where you can see the both tail lights in one pic. All pics are just with the headlights on- no brakes applied.

As far as aesthetics the only "LED" looking difference is in the dead center of the bulb (see middle pic). There is a small circle of 6 obvious LED's with lights on. Unless you notice what bulbs look like now on cars with the lights off you won't notice anything here with the lights off.

For you traditionalists, I will leave it to you but I think they still look classic but way brighter and taking less toll on the battery. Jac

PS- Here is how I replaced the bulbs: In the trunk I unscrewed the the two caps that have the tangs on them for cargo net. Pulled cover off. Took 3, 10mm nuts off. Slid the whole assy forward a bit. Pushed down on wire-like clip on top of electrical connector and pulled connector off. Removed assembly: I wanted to clean it all up anyway. Unscrewed one black threaded on cap that allows the board with the bulbs to separate from the exterior tail light cover. Press in and turn bulbs anti-clockwise and lift out. Had no troubles, took 15 minutes with cleaning to take it apart and get it together.

 

looks good, you can't even tell they're LEDs until you're right on top of them. I wasn't as worried about the interior lamps being LEDs, as I left the normal filament bulbs in them, as they are just ON all the time the headlights or parking lamps are switched on, and don't benefit from the instant on that the brake lamps receive. They certainly are brighter in comparison though.

 

I am with your logic. Actually, That was kind of an accident! I bought two just to replace the brake light on BOTH sides. When I took it apart and saw that both bulbs on the one assembly were dual-filament, I figured I would just make them both brighter and get this side done and order some more and do the other side in-total when I get them.

 

Well, I installed my LED bulbs today. They're ok, but I am not 100% convinced.

The two intensities work fine, but the colour is very slightly orange compared to the old bulbs. Also, you can see the little LED lights through the lens which looks a bit odd. Finally - and most annoying - is the 'CHECK REAR LIGHTS' warning message I have on the dash every time I brake and/or switch the lights on.

The bulbs say CAN Bus on the box, so I'm at a loss. Has anyone else had issues?

Old bulb (left) compared to LED bulb (right)

 

Not sure if you saw the pics in #54 above. I didn't realize I have the same "Check Rear Lights" message and there is an audible "Click" sound when I step on the pedal. Now you have me wondering about the color. I think it is OK on mine and just the brightness that is different? I have only looked so far in running mode during daylight though: not with brakes on yet as I was waiting for a helper to get home. Jac

 

I called Superbright's tech support. The tech was polite and co-operative. Unfortunately The 1157 is the highest resistance bulb they have: it is designed to prevent the error. Options I was given was that they have a 30 day money back guarantee or I can "try" a resistor. He said part number RL 650 would be the resistor to try first if I want to try to make them work. I am not sure if I want to mess with that or not right now.

 

One this all gets sorted out someone could do everyone a favor and list the part numbers and supplier so those interested can make an easy and correct purchase.

There might even be a chance for a group buy...