Lowering a XKR CAT suspension
#3
I would be interested as well...i have 19 inch wheels on my 02 xk8...mina gallery sells a set of springs that they say will lower the vehicle 1-1.25 inches...will that compromise the ride significantly(i would expect a little) just how much though...what about the tires rubbing as well...
#4
#5
I talked to Mina just yesterday. I got a little more information. He said the ride will barely change at all. He also added that they experienced the car will ride and handle much more like an XKR. As for the tires rubbing, I looked up under the wheel well and there is plenty of room. I'm probably gonig to make a play for these springs. I will check around first and see what I'm looking at from a standpoint of installing them. In the end, I will most definately will be keeping the original's as I have with any other modification's I've made.
#7
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#8
I would first compare the two spring rates (front and rear) for both your OEM coils and the ones you are looking at. Choosing a lowering spring simply using the "inches dropped" as a guide is foolish. Determine if the the lowering springs are progressive or linear. Most aftermarket springs are progressive and they change the suspension characteristics more than keeping linear rated coils.
There is no free lunch. As you lower a car, the spring travel is shortened, and to keep the suspension off the bump stops, the spring rates must be higher. The only way to keep the spring travel long and the spring rates soft is to relocate the suspension pickup points, and if you are reading this post as advice... well that is not an option for you.
A lot of coil-overs are at least 6 Kg/mm (335 lbs/in) in the front, and that is quite a stiff spring. They need to be stiff because most coil-over are usually shorter units with corresponding spring travel also shortened. Longer coil-overs are being made for US muscle cars from mfrs like QA-1, but I don't think they have an XK8 fitment. You could ask: http://www.qa1.net/qa1_motorsports/index.html
Here is a chart for converting Kg/mm to lbs/inch spring rates: http://spda-online.ca/modules/tinyco...ite/tc_17.html
Here is a link to H&R page, but before I bought, I'd either want a ride in a car like mine with the proposed springs installed, and/or get the specs from the mfr. Notice they do not include the convertible, which I think is because the stiffer springs will cause the cowl shake and body flex to worsen:
http://hrsprings.com/scripts/appguid...guar%20|%20XK8
Personally, if all I wanted to do was to lower my car; before I messed around with aftermarket springs, I would simply swap the coils for some older OEM units that have begun to sag. You get the drop, and you keep the spring travel and the OEM ride. Remember when you lower a car; with the drop, you also get an increase in negative camber and excessive wear on the inside front tires. For those of you who want a sporting ride, I think the R spec springs would be as far as I would recommend.
I've seen too many car owners bouncing around like slammed Hondas because they thought lowering springs were cool. When springs get too low, and the shock travel is compromised; they reach a point where these cars are riding on their bump stops over high speed compression dips and even parking lot speed bumps. They might look cool, but I think they ride like crap. Maybe they might be good at knocking loose some of those pesky kidney stones; just hope they don't knock your crowns out instead. ;-)
There is no free lunch. As you lower a car, the spring travel is shortened, and to keep the suspension off the bump stops, the spring rates must be higher. The only way to keep the spring travel long and the spring rates soft is to relocate the suspension pickup points, and if you are reading this post as advice... well that is not an option for you.
A lot of coil-overs are at least 6 Kg/mm (335 lbs/in) in the front, and that is quite a stiff spring. They need to be stiff because most coil-over are usually shorter units with corresponding spring travel also shortened. Longer coil-overs are being made for US muscle cars from mfrs like QA-1, but I don't think they have an XK8 fitment. You could ask: http://www.qa1.net/qa1_motorsports/index.html
Here is a chart for converting Kg/mm to lbs/inch spring rates: http://spda-online.ca/modules/tinyco...ite/tc_17.html
Here is a link to H&R page, but before I bought, I'd either want a ride in a car like mine with the proposed springs installed, and/or get the specs from the mfr. Notice they do not include the convertible, which I think is because the stiffer springs will cause the cowl shake and body flex to worsen:
http://hrsprings.com/scripts/appguid...guar%20|%20XK8
Personally, if all I wanted to do was to lower my car; before I messed around with aftermarket springs, I would simply swap the coils for some older OEM units that have begun to sag. You get the drop, and you keep the spring travel and the OEM ride. Remember when you lower a car; with the drop, you also get an increase in negative camber and excessive wear on the inside front tires. For those of you who want a sporting ride, I think the R spec springs would be as far as I would recommend.
I've seen too many car owners bouncing around like slammed Hondas because they thought lowering springs were cool. When springs get too low, and the shock travel is compromised; they reach a point where these cars are riding on their bump stops over high speed compression dips and even parking lot speed bumps. They might look cool, but I think they ride like crap. Maybe they might be good at knocking loose some of those pesky kidney stones; just hope they don't knock your crowns out instead. ;-)
Last edited by GordoCatCar; 03-01-2010 at 08:28 PM.
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#11
Mina says the springs are progressive but they have no spring rates. The H&R springs are progressive too and their rates are: 44 N/mm (front) and 55 N/mm (rear).
From what I can tell from other forum posts is that the stock springs came in a range of spring rates. The R models being stiffer than non-Rs. The Coupes being stiffer than Convertibles. The US models being raised in the rear compared non-US models. The stock springs have "color ratings" (paint marks on them) and it seems to be a factory secret as to what they mean.
I think I will try the H&R springs just in the rear to bring it down a bit and make it look "proper". I'll see how the ride is.
From what I can tell from other forum posts is that the stock springs came in a range of spring rates. The R models being stiffer than non-Rs. The Coupes being stiffer than Convertibles. The US models being raised in the rear compared non-US models. The stock springs have "color ratings" (paint marks on them) and it seems to be a factory secret as to what they mean.
I think I will try the H&R springs just in the rear to bring it down a bit and make it look "proper". I'll see how the ride is.
#13
GordoCatCar. Thanks alot for the advice. After reading your response, I think it may be best to just leave well enough alone. My XK is way too nice and clean of a unit to get jiggy with the suspension and jack it all up. The modifications that I have done so far have been well worth it. This however may be just a little too much and I think in the end may very well tarnish my XK's overall appeal. One last thing. I was thinking of adding some wheel spacers on my four corners. Not to push the wheels out past the wells but to spread them out a little. If you look at the car from behind, you can see wheelwells hang out over the wheels themselves pretty far. I'm running 8in up front and 9in wide in the rears with them being 19in overall. Am I asking for trouble by pushing the wheels out a little and would there be a certain size/width of spacer you might recommend. Just curious. Gettin' very itchy for spring weather here in central IL. Thanks Again, Eric.
#14
I do not have first hand experience w/ wheel spacers; however, I have read quite a bit about them. On the con, I know some people feel they put a stress on the wheel bearings. However, all they are doing is increasing your wheel's offset, so I think it would require a very large offset increase to put that much extra leverage on the bearings. It might become an issue on the fronts of the 97-98 models, which already have a wheelbearing issue. After 99, I think the bearings were upgraded and I would not expect any problems.
Notwithstanding the above caution, most people I know who use spacers say that using a spacer less than 10mm (less than a half inch) is OK. It was also suggested if your wheels are hub centric (fit tight around the wheel hub centers, as opposed to using the lug nuts to center the whee); then be certain to use spacers that are also hub-centric.
There are two types of spacers: I was told to use spacers that share the existing wheel lug. However, you do need to press out the old lugs and install longer ones. There is a second kind of spacer that first bolts to your existing lugs, then the wheel mounts to the lugs on the spacer.
All in all, I dont see anything inherently wrong if you want to go a little 'wide track' like the old Pontiacs. Keep an eye out on fender clearance issues.
Notwithstanding the above caution, most people I know who use spacers say that using a spacer less than 10mm (less than a half inch) is OK. It was also suggested if your wheels are hub centric (fit tight around the wheel hub centers, as opposed to using the lug nuts to center the whee); then be certain to use spacers that are also hub-centric.
There are two types of spacers: I was told to use spacers that share the existing wheel lug. However, you do need to press out the old lugs and install longer ones. There is a second kind of spacer that first bolts to your existing lugs, then the wheel mounts to the lugs on the spacer.
All in all, I dont see anything inherently wrong if you want to go a little 'wide track' like the old Pontiacs. Keep an eye out on fender clearance issues.
Last edited by GordoCatCar; 03-05-2010 at 03:36 PM.
#15
Thanks GordoCatCar. I have seen the spacers with the stems already mounted to them. Should I decide to do this, I will be sure to keep it 10mm or less. That totally makes sense. I only put 5,000 miles a year on the car and that might be pushing it out there a bit. Sress I would think should be at a minimum. After forever and a year, I was finally able to upload pictures. Check'em out guys if you get a chance. Thanks, Eric.
#16
lowering XKR
I just joined today. I too am interested in lowering my '01 XKR. So far my research is pointing to the Mina Gallery springs. It seems a more conservative drop than the HR brand. I love the car, but the height (especially in the rear) I find troubling. I look forward to following the progress, and good luck.
#17
I joined recently too but I have had the Mina Gallery springs installed on my car for over 4 years now. The ride is a bit firmer but still very Jaguar and still comfortable for long journeys. My car originally came with 19" Atlas wheels and I sourced the proper 20" "Perseus" wheels a couple of years ago. That change effected the ride quality much more than the lowering did.
The key to the lowering is to have someone very familiar with our cars install them as the rear alignment is seriously effected by this and requires shims to adjust. I have been told the rear alignment is key to setting up the front alignment. TIt still wont be perfect but it will be within factory spec and there will still be some inside wear due to the camber issues but if you are diligent with your tire pressures and swap the tires side to side (remove, remount and balance) when you notice inside wear you will not have any issues.
I have a gallery associated with my account so click on my profile to see the effect.
I have also started slowly replacing warn bushings with poly bushings. the lower control arm bushings were first; I think it had a great effect as it provided a much better road feel. - FYI: I am not trying to turn this into a true sports car but I do drive it hard and like the controlled poise the modifications have given the car.
One word of warning: if you also go with an under the axle exhaust system the resulting ground clearance is extremely minimal like 2.5- 3" In fact I had to remove for a while when I lived in the S.F. bay area because of the road conditions. Now that I am back in AZ it is much more tolerable.
The key to the lowering is to have someone very familiar with our cars install them as the rear alignment is seriously effected by this and requires shims to adjust. I have been told the rear alignment is key to setting up the front alignment. TIt still wont be perfect but it will be within factory spec and there will still be some inside wear due to the camber issues but if you are diligent with your tire pressures and swap the tires side to side (remove, remount and balance) when you notice inside wear you will not have any issues.
I have a gallery associated with my account so click on my profile to see the effect.
I have also started slowly replacing warn bushings with poly bushings. the lower control arm bushings were first; I think it had a great effect as it provided a much better road feel. - FYI: I am not trying to turn this into a true sports car but I do drive it hard and like the controlled poise the modifications have given the car.
One word of warning: if you also go with an under the axle exhaust system the resulting ground clearance is extremely minimal like 2.5- 3" In fact I had to remove for a while when I lived in the S.F. bay area because of the road conditions. Now that I am back in AZ it is much more tolerable.
Last edited by MarcB; 05-07-2010 at 08:25 AM.
#18
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#20