Hello!

Had a quick chat with the swedish dealership today.

I said that I wanted to know the cost on changing just the upper tensioners. They told me that they change all four, since the lower tensioners go first... That's exactly the opposite of what I have heard everywhere else.. Do they say this to earn more money?

This leads me to a couple questions:

1) I am quite sure the sound comes from the top of the engine. At first I thought it was the pulley on top. Will a proper stetoscope tell me the exact location of the sound? Or will the sound be heard everywhere on the engine?

2) Is it a problem to change the upper ones first, and if that doesn't solve it, I'll get the lower ones changed afterwards? I don't see a reason to change all of them all really.

Thanks guys.

Cheers, Jarle

 

Forgot one thing. How long do the chains actually last? My engine has 84000 miles or 135 000 kmtrs.

Cheers, Jarle

 

The sound of a failing tensioner is reported to be a rattle heard at cold engine startup that goes away after 2-4 seconds as oil pressure comes up.

It is almost always the secondary (upper) tensioners that fail first. No problem changing only the upper ones. You will only incur a duplicate couple hours labor pulling the valve covers off again to get to the primary ones.

I don't think I have never heard of a broken chain that wasn't caused by another problem, like a broken slipper from the tensioner wedging itself between the chain and sprocket. The chains are not routinely replaced with the tensioner upgrade, except perhaps by a dealer. To change the upper chain you have to do all the primary work or go to a repair link.

There is a history of the serpentine belt tensioning pulley bearing failing and 'rattling' but it is engine speed dependent more that cold start up dependent.

I use a totally improper $6 stethoscope from Harbor Freight that works just fine. A proper one could only be better.

Thought you commented that the selling dealer was going to pay for the repair (?).

 

First of all, thanks for answering all of my lame questions

I'm pretty sure it's the right upper tensioner that is failing. It's clearly more audible there.. And yes, as soon as I drive the car 10-20 meters the sound is gone. And it could be said to be a rattling noise rather than a click.

Regarding the dealership paying the repair. Yes they will, but I have gotten a very good car at an affordable price, and they have been very helpfull to me. And in Norway, the dealership has the right to chose the place the car should be repaired. And there is an independent workshop changing both upper tensioners for 600£ rather the whole shebang for 2300£. Called them today, and they can take the car on next week...

To be honost, I'd love to do the job myself, but it's a bit difficult since they are paying...

Cheers, Jarle

 

Personally, if it were me and the dealership was offering to pay for the whole job I would be inclined to take them up on it. Primarily from the point of view that more new parts the better in the long run, but also, is there any chance you may run into issues later if there is any further issue with either the top or bottom tensioners? - they could come back and say you did not follow their recommendations and you could be on your own at that point....

 

Like I said, the dealer can decide what workshop to use, and they would definately use a workshop that are willing to fix what is wrong, and not everything in the front of the engine. They have promised to fix it, but they decide how and where. This is how the Norwegian law is on the matter. If I would send them a bill on 4000$ they would just decide to do the work elsewhere, that's for sure..

If I thought that they would accept a bill on 4000$ I agree 100% with you!!

Cheers, Jarle