tedfasthm, the clamps that I referred to are called t-bolt clamps. Can be found on the net. not computer Savy enough to show pictures. They are very strong.
Try looking this up on ebay. 2 PC STAINLESS 1" T- BOLT HOSE CLAMP HIGH STRENGTH TBC23-25
Jack

 

The only reason I shoot the copperheads is because they bite my dogs. (painful swelling)
I stepped on one in the dark but personally never been bit.
All other snakes can roam free on the goat ranch to do the 'rat-killing' to keep all the wiring harnesses on cars intact. (I also have many feral cats in the barns)

I think I saw another aluminum pipe in another part of that pile. It looked closer to an end and closer to the top. It MIGHT be another set of cooler hoses but MIGHT be XJR?

I don't know how different XJ are from XK cooler lines.

 

tedgasthm, Do you have a close estimate of how many feet of hose it took to do the job. Looks like a couple of feet would be close.

Jack

 

Yeah Jack, I bought 3 ft because I was going to do some experimenting with the crimper to "test drive" it. 2 ft would be close but should be enough for one set but I'd still be inclined to buy three as I was being picky about how "squared" the cut ends were in order to keep them parallel with the bead on the tube. The motto of my life is "better too much than not enough". Helps with beer and ice cream as well.

 

These?

 

Yes. Look around, the price range is very wide. The quality probably is also. I've never used this type. They look very strong.
I just ordered these 2 clamps, should have them in a week or so. I'll let you know about the quality.

Jack

 

I've tried but failed over and over to copy and paste live links but it just don't work. So, if you go to youtube and paste this ,

The Best Hose Clamps/ T-Bolt VS. Worm-Drive

You can find a good video on T-bolt clamps.

tedgasthm, I'm sorry if I've hi-jacked your Wonderful eye opening thread.

Jack

 

^^ Not a thread hijack at all. The more information provided on the subject, the more valuable this thread becomes....

 

JACKP, Jon89 is spot on. You haven't done anything but provide fodder for thought and that is what makes this forum function at it's best. I have had the pleasure to have many people herein help me get over my fear of the Jag mystique when I bought mine and had numerous problems. I was excited to find a solution to the 637.00 hose issue and posted my approach as a means of trying to give back a little. Your comments, along with others, has helped provide even more possible alternative and that's great. After 42 years in transit vehicle maintenance, I have learned that there is always more than one way to skin a cat. Thanks for your input. Keep it coming. I'm still intrigued by the flare and clamp approach as a possible solution.

 

Go to Youtube and look up this video. Start watching at about 7 minutes if you don't want to hear him talk all day. This will give you some ideas.

Never Need A Coupling Again! How to Swage Copper Pipe!

Also on Youtube

Best Hose Clamp? Let’s Settle This! Ideal, Precision, Koehler, Norma, Skandvik, Mishimoto, Breeze

 

A job well done indeed!! Way to go. Having suffered the dreaded oil hose aneurysm.....TWICE I would love a set of these oil lines. I DO have an extra set in my garage that are NOT buried in a snake pit, it just looks like one. So, having said all that I am willing to send my extra set for an exchange and then I will donate the ones on my car now to help others with the exchange. I would pay for you efforts as would many others.
One piece of the line is a new one from a dealer. That solved my problem the second time. Be weary of used ones on eBay or elsewhere as the rubber portion is the problem as stated and clarified in this excellent thread. I think there is a small business opportunity here.
Necessity is the Mother of Invention, TM

 

STLTHMSTA, I'm glad you like the post. If you want to send me your hoses I'd be glad to use them to improve my post and related picture set. I would only ask that you clean them before sending them. I'd need you pay for the hose which would be no more than 30 bucks and maybe a few bucks toward the ferrules. I'm not out to make money on them but be sure you understand that, while I am very confident that the ones I made for my Jag are going to be just fine, I can't guarantee anything. I have the disadvantage of living in a ugly winter area and, as such, won't be driving the Jag until Spring so a long winded test of the hoses will be delayed. (I know some of you are going to call me a sissy and such but my car is absolutely rust free and I intend to keep it that way). I've also been pondering JACKP's clamp concept. (See next post)

 

JACKP, I've been pondering the clamp idea and I did watch the tubing swaging video and I came to the conclusion that, ultimately, maybe the best service we could provide to the Jag community would be a couple of different ways to DIY this. I think each way has it's advantages and a hybrid approach might also result. I was thinking about your concern about the hose stress in crimping which I suspect was born of one my pictures showing a closeup of the crimp wherein the hose as it clears the end of the ferrule appears to be "choked" a bit. I had noticed that too. I think that was one of my first two-step crimps and I think I lightened up a bit after that crimp to avoid that. And it dawned on me that maybe I could do the same setup as before only swaging a small swell on the very end of the tube and then crimping it only very slightly as a secondary means of holding it in place. It might make pushing the hose on a bit more difficult I do remember that the ends of the tubes taper down somewhat.

And, secondly, the same swaging trick could add strength to your clamping system. The main advantage that crimping beadlock ferrules have over the clamps is the resistance to pull-off afforded by the beadlock. If the tubing were swaged at the end that would help resolve that concern. It might make getting the hose on a little more difficult but I doubt it. Aside from that, the only thing that remains to be seen is whether the T-bolt part gets in the way of anything especially at the engine attachment point. But, again, the ends at the engine are steel and anyone with a MIG welder could weld barb fittings onto those and mount the hose ends and clamps a bit further out to ease clearance issues. Frankly, I think it'd be fun to experiment with all of the above if only I had a couple or three extra old hose sets to play with.

 

tedgasthm, I think a normal high quality hose clamp would be sufficient if the tubing had a small swell at the end. It would be important that the tube not be sharp as it might cut hose as some of them form a radius. I agree the crimp could be lighter if there was a swell at the tube end.

Jack

 

TEDGASTHM,
I was only implying that you can't do this for nothing and most here would surely pay a reasonable price for your troubles and efforts. The fact that you worked something out is worth it. Our cars were not high volume so repair parts are not high volume (cost efficient). But Holy Geeez, somethings are way too much for what you need. So your solution is welcomed for sure. TM

 

What I don’t see addressed in this topic is the weakness that exists in the tube ends from the factory crimping job.

I’ve already been down this path a few years ago. I took the tubes to a company that makes hoses for hydraulic applications. Applications that see fives times the pressure that the oiling system produces in our cars.

the technician there showed me how the tubes were already squeezed down into a smaller diameter from the factory manufacturing process. This also weakens them at the point where the crimping is located as it thins the thickness of the metal tubing. I was shown how re-crimping the tubing was
going to weaken it further, and produce an area where breakage can occur.

the fix was to cut off the metal tubing ends where it had been crimped and weld on a new “virgin” end. That is the only way the tubing can be reused with any safety margin.

For owners that seldom drive their cars, then maybe it’s “good enough” to just reuse the existing ends. But my car is a daily driver. I can’t trust a re-do on the existing oil cooler tubing to get me across country reliably.


I’m trusting a professional’s opinion in this matter to be the final word for me.

The technician that I worked with has decades of experience and knew exactly what my application was
going to be, and he was adamant about the end result being safe and reliable
without the welding on of new material.

Just be advised that there are some serious issues with producing these hoses as has been reported in this topic. There are some areas you should be concerned about.

 

Good Info zray. Even non encouraging info is good. It's something else to be aware of. Could save us a lot of heart ache.

Jack

 

Having been one of the exclusive
club who have lost 8 qts. (of fresh Mobil 1 0w-40) on the highway when a factory hose only 3 years old failed and blew out right at the crimp, I am a gun shy about depending on these hoses to be trustworthy. If even a relatively new hose factory can fail catastrophically what’s going to happen to a possibly weakened remanufactured hose assembly ?

Believe me, I don’t relish paying $600+ for a set of factory hoses. Eventually I’ll get a set rebuilt with new ends welded on and then report back on the cost, appearance, and durability

One thing having a hose blow did for me; I installed an oil pressure gauge atop the edge of the dash where I can keep track of O/P easily.

 

purple high tack and t-bolt clamps that thing is never coming off again, flare tool if you're scared. i had one held together with autozone hose clamps for the longest time

 

zray, we must remember the people that made those factory hoses were probably the low bidder on the job. Usually not the best idea on planes and space ships

Jack