Yep! Technological progress = technological cheapness

Compression test is the first thing on the list. Waiting for the stuff i need now. We shall see Friday the earliest..

 

Cool- thanks for the updates!

 

BTW, you can get a refurbished "0 mile" engine for $2295: Jaguar XK8 4 0L Zero Miles Remanufactured Engine w Warranty 1998 2002 | eBay

Seems like a good deal to me..

 

STAY AWAY from them. This "company" used to refer to themselves as 123 Engine, with the same pricing. I came across them on Ebay earlier this year, did some looking around and they had MANY online complaints and several lawsuits against them.

Now they've evidently changed their name to AAA Engine, with a re-faced website that under the skin is the same website they were using before.

DO NOT do business with AAA Engine or 123 Engine (or whatever they may be calling themselves by the time you read this).


.

 

FYI- I am not affiliated in any way with this person, but here is a running example of a 2000 engine for $950. Add in shipping and you are under $1500.

98-03 JAGUAR XJ8 ENGINE

 

Fraud, goddamn! What looks too good to be true. Good to know that such used engines exist though, I guess that will be the final solution. So you search in the SF bay and San Diego areas? Maybe I should extend that to LA?

Since I'm parked on the street and don't have the tools nor easily accessible extra manpower, I think I should try to outsource the engine swap, anyone know any good places where I could get my car towed and a new engine shipped and then get everything bolted together? Anywhere around the east bay or san francisco.

 

I got a used 4.2 from Nationwide (they are often on ebay) for my S type a couple of years ago for $2000. It was honestly represented and arrived from Boston to VA less than 24 hours after payment.

 

I'll add SF to my searches and let you know if one turns up!

 

BTW, did you know you allegedly can use RSS for automated CL searches? How to get automatic updates to Craigslist search results | How To - CNET

Also:

Removed all the spark plugs: def water and oil (they already needed new gaskets) on most of them:


I posted in another thread about how to do a compression test, would the following steps apply in my case?:

1. Let engine run for 20 minutes or equivalent to get it warm, then wait 1 hour.
2. Remove all the spark plugs and disconnect the coils.
3. Screw gauge into first bank by hand (to avoid over tightening).
4. Floor the gas pedal, and turn "on" the engine letting it crank 5 times.
5. Read pressure - repeat for the other cylinders.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...exhaust-98838/

 

Tested the endoscope, works great! Def some water there. Looking forward to filming my cranking attempt, which can be done by one person.

 

Battery re-charged, cranking out water (using endoscope cam):

Then did a compression test (results jumped 10-30 psi adding two small caps of oil to the cylinders). 6 cranks is enough to max out pressure.
Holding down the gas pedal or keeping the throttle body open with a screwdriver gave the same results.

1. 120
2. 90
3. 80
4. 90
5. 122
6. 92
7. 80
8. 120

Then tried to start the engine with plugs and air intake manifold back in:

There's also another coolant leak demonstrated by a couple of puddles under the engine (not oil though).

Things are looking pretty bad. It would be really helpful if I could drive it across the st though, any thoughts on coolant leak sealants?

Forgot to film the cranking in action.

 

Do not use sealant. Your radiator and heater core will be added to the list of casualties.

 

TODO LIST

1. Check fuel pressure, if OK:
2. Check for spark (remove one coil and plug, ground plug and visually see if there's spark when cranking?), if spark:
2a. Try to hold down gas pedal all the way down (no gas?) when cranking for 3 min, then slowly release it to allow fuel flow. (does this make sense?)
2b. Try engine starter fluid?
2c. Figure out if there is a timing chain problem?

If NO spark:

3. Check ECM to ground and high resistance + -
4. Check chassis ground to starter (can melt?, other resistances that should be checked?)
5. Perform Immobilization Reset (Need dealer scan tool).

Other possible todo
Film the cylinders cranking?
Check the timing belt?
Check for bad crank controller?

Let me know if you have other ideas.

 

Small update.

Holding down the gas peddal 100% then 80% whilst cranking made the engine run, a lot of white smoke and water came out of the tailpipe. But it would not idle. What does this tell us? Have not started going through the diagnostic list yet.

Also wonder whether the thermostat(checked, thermostat ok) or coolant temp sensor could cause it not to idle?

 

Water in the cylenders+the compression readings= heads are coming off. They will tell you the whole story. Safe to say you don't have dropped valve seats as you would have 0 compression readings where the dropped seats were. My uneducated guess is that you will find the head gasket compromised in 5 cylinders. You have an 80% chance the car will run fine after you replace the head gaskets. 20% chance of greater damage, but that is diminished by the fact that there were no dropped seats. (not SEVERELY overheated)

 

Checked the thermostat, worked fine when put in hot water. Ordered a couple of jack stands and a tech shop repair manual to figure out how to do this job right and what tools to get. Head gasket (+ everything else) sets start at $228, so if lucky it could be a reasonable, yet time consuming, repair.

 

Are the compression numbers posted the before oil or after oil numbers? They are low in alot of cylinders, seems like fuel wash. Is the water in all or most of the cylinders? One bank or both? Is there any in the V of your engine under the intake manifold that might be getting sucked in? What does your oil look like?

 

Numbers are after oil. Seems like there was some water in most of them. Have not looked under intake manifold yet. Oil looks good from looking at dipstick but have not changed it yet.

Question: If i remove the cover to look at the timing chain tensioners / for water, can i then replace it without changing gaskets (i will change gaskets eventually, but it would be nice to be able to drive car across the st without doing so).

 

Yes to your question. A little oil drip would be the least of your problems. Water in most cyl. would point to either a common source (intake side) or a very cracked up engine. Yikes!

 

Small update:

Cleaned the throttle body and checked fuel pressure (40psi +5psi when cranking).
Sometimes it won't crank at all btw.
Oil looks light brown (water?).
One guy in a similar situation got his cat to start by: "alternately fully depressing and releasing the throttle peddle while cranking on and off so as not to overheat the starter motor, the Cat slowly, cylinder by cylinder, came back to life,

Two new codes: P0102 and P0112 both related to the MAF. So will troubleshoot those as follows:
Check MAF fuses
Check MAF wiring
Start up with MAF disconnected, then clear codes and reconnect.

Suspect all cylinders might not be well oiled (hard to crank), water in oil and perhaps not spark all around.