Well, that's almost what it looked like, steam bursting out under the hood and into the cabin.

 

In a situation like that you would cool the engine thoroughly, tape the hose, and take off the pressure cap. That way the tape only has to hold water and not pressure. It also helps to turn the heater on full hot to use the heater as an additional radiator.

Of course, the preferred solution is to tow it or fix it without further driving. Having a auto club membership helps overcome the reluctance to lay out the dosh at the time it is most needed.

 

On the early cars, be aware that the upper radiator hose can easily rub on the fan shroud and eventually burst, when I experience a failure at this point, I was advised to shorten the hose slightly at the block and rotate it a little to provide a little more clearance.

Check out this https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=71932

 

After it's cooled give it a try (as advised above) if it runs lumpy, you are in for at least a head gasket.

I have had all instances below:
Best case scenario- new hose and coolant- vroom! runs fine
Middle case scenario- new head gaskets needed
Middle-worse case scenario- dropped valve seats need new heads
Worst case scenario- new engine

 

If coolant blew all over the engine compartment you might want to check the ignition coils and throttle body connections, also.

 

I'm guessing I should look at the head gasket at the very least and look for dropped valves (god I hope that's not the case). Then I need to replace the spark plug seals as well.

Any good guides out there as to how do the head gasket? And perhaps check for cracks in the block?

 

So I'm getting it towed (to the street, street cleaning every week ugh) and I need to figure out what steps to take next.

1. Take out spark plugs see if the engine is full of water and if the valves are ok
2. If there seems to be a problem, replace head gaskets (also need to replace spark plug seals). Will ask for quotes on doing that given that I supply the gaskets (OEM parts? No way!)
3. If the valves are shot or block cracked, start crying.

Any other points to add to this? How to get it to start?

Oh, and I would add that I poured cold water into the expansion tank maybe 10 minutes after the engine had overheated and stalled. Could have done more damage :S

 

Possible cylinder wash... Check for compression. You might need to add a little oil to each of your cylinders to get it back.

 

+1 what xenophobe said. If you have a compression tester you can kill two birds:

If you have 0 on any cylinder= probably gonna need at least a head.
If you have SOME compression on all cylinders= cylinder wash (probably)

 

There is quite a lot of labor involved in removing and reassembling the heads in these cars, independent of the cost of repairing potential head damage. You will also need the timing tools.

Assuming this is not a case of cylinder wash, replacement with a good used engine may be cheaper and less effort in the long run unless you are quite a skilled mechanic.

 

I agree with WhiteXKR- if you have to pay a mechanic, used working unit is the way to go. I probably came close to the same cost as a used motor and did all the work myself...

 

check the thermostat it's probably stuck closed.

 

Thanks for all the feedback, so a few important questions:

1. Can you change the head gasket without taking the engine out? If not, then that's probably not an option, I have most of the tools I need but am an average mechanic and do not have access to a garage (I could rent one though).

2. If a new engine is the best bet, it seems that a good, refurbished one start at $2500, and wouldn't the labor be more to get an engine swap done?

For now I will order a compression tester and a battery charger (battery went nearly flat trying to start it), and see what happens. Thanks for the oil tip re-compression, got that lined out in another thread

 

It is a gamble.

The problem is you really need to get in there before you know the extent of the damage.

Though you might have gotten lucky, these engines like to drop valve seats during severe overheats. If that is the case, the labor and machine work or new heads will equal or exceed the cost of a used engine replacement and installation.

 

1. Yes
2. It takes FAR less time to R&R the engine than to redo both heads and lap valves etc.

 

I could do the gasket work over a long period of time, the gaskets themselves are only $40 each, but how much would the other parts/tools amount to? Can you look through the spark plug holes to see if the valves are damaged? That could save me a lot of time.

With an engine replacement landing at minimum! $3k. Which I can't afford for a good while, what are "good" alternatives for turning the car into money? ;_;

Basically everything is working and in good cond expect intermittent asc/trac errors, has been converted to manual latching and the driver's seat leather is not great.

 

YES. Flashlight, and have someone crank it over. The dropped seats were obvious on mine. It's the while-you-are-at-its that cost $$ head gasket set is $300+ (you need the whole thing, trust me) And a used head (don't bother paying $$$$ to refurbish it gets pricey) is around $150-$250. I opted to use a short block (paid $200) and used heads ($400) to do mine. If you can wrench a little bit and do it methodically you can do the work yourself. You will need a cherry picker and a second person to remove and replace. Might want to check the A drum on the trans while you are in there.


How to turn it into money when you have patience and time? Craigslist. Keep an eye out for a motor or someone parting out. I saw 4 motors for under $900 this week and just passed up a RUNNING 2001 XJ8 that was driveable for $950. They come in waves by the way- weeks with nothing then BAM all kinds of jag stuff.

The best part is once you are done you should be good to go as far as major stuff for quite a while.

 

Thanks for the uplifting words dsnyder586

So one person tries to start the engine, and the other ones peeks into one hole at the time (sounds dangerous!) What about using a USB endoscope btw?




I'll commence the craigslist search, if not money, I do have time..

 

an endiscope or borescope would be ideal, but some of us poor folk only have a spark plug wrench and a helper

The engine really does not turn that fast when you are just cranking it (all spark plugs out and injector relay out of course) Alternatively, a compression check will tell you alot... and you can use that by yourself. any 0psi readings= head comes off.

 

WOAH, I just looked at that ad- $24? I am getting one of those like today.