Hello all. I want to buy some 20" for my XKR and i'm really in love for the TSW Londrina gunmetal with mirror lip.




But as most know, there is a small range of wheels to choose with the PCD 126.65mm,and these wheel isn't available. I read somewhere that the BMW E39 wheels fit in our cars, despite of:

Jag - PCD 126.65mm / Bore Center 74.1mm
E39 - PCD 120mm / Bore Center 74mm

Is this for real??? Because TSW has these wheels for the E39 M5 available in 20x8.5 ET20 and 20x10 ET25, which is the right size for our cars.

 

Tiago, there is too much of a difference between the stud spacing for that to be a safe option. Will the wheels bolt up to the car. Yep. Will you be able to slowly move the car. Sure. Will the car hold together when you hit a pot hole at 60 mph, NOPE!!!!! The stud spacing is too too far apart and this is going to put a sideways force on the lugs and this tends to lead to catastrophic failure of the studs when a jarring event occurs (read this as all of the studs fail together and the wheel goes one way as your car goes another).

 

I'm sad specially because that wheels has 3,25" lip in the rears and 2" in the fronts which would perfect in the XKR body, but i understand what you are saying. Safety in first place. Although it fit, as is not the correct pattern it will put the bolts in such a stress that it can fail at any time. Not a good thing to happen, specially when cruising in autobahn at +130mph.

Is there any spacers/adapters to change the PCD size? I guess wheels with lip is a no option now, because while using a spacer/adapter you need wheels with big ET and the higher the ET, the lower the lip size.

Correction: in the first post the Jag PCD is 120.65mm and not 126.65mm.

 

Wobble bolts can tolerate up to 2mm (either way) difference in PCD.



Yay or nay?

 

I had no idea that our cars have nuts instead of bolts to tight the wheels. The problem with Jag 120.65mm PCD vs BMW 120mm PCD is that when tighten the wheels, althought being a very small difference as 0.65mm in diameter, the cone shape of the nuts tend to bend the studs of the hub. Some defend that this may stress the studs leading to a fail.

About the wobble tight, i think that is safer to use wobble nuts than wobble bolts, which fortunately is our case. I've been reading the epic debate: bmw wheels in chevies and vice-versa that in both cases it use bolts, and most showed more concerns about the hubcentric question than the wobble locking.

To have the correct centerbore (CB) we have two options: enlarge wheel CB 0.1mm, or cut 0.1mm in the hub CB. But once the bmw wheels has the CB more narrow 0.1mm than the jag CB, it will always be hubcentric due to the tighter fit in the hub. This is better than to have a 0.1mm gap wheel > hub that could cause high speed vibrations due to that insignificant gap in the hub.

Being that said i think that maybe there is no need to use wobble nuts. Flat head nuts will be more than enough to tighten the wheels because it will keep the wheel hubcentric due to tight CB size, and won't stress the studs due to the flat head nut.

 

I just got confirmed through a trusted source (BMW dealer) that the BMW E39 (5series 1996 - 2004) has 74.1mm center bore, the same as our cars. Aftermarket wheels manufacturers tend to ignore that 0.1mm (0,004") when given the wheels specs because that gap is the max tolerance accepted in wheels or spacers to be perfect hubcentric.

Being that said, only the PCD is off with +0.65mm (0,025") to BMW E39 wheels, leaving us 4 options:

1. Ignore and mount like a OE wheel, because once is hubcentric the car weight and driving forces will be made in the hub itself (due to "wheel seat" match) and not in the studs. So it will only generate a very insignificant load in the studs due to the +0.65mm in diameter;

2. Buy flat seat nuts if aftermarket wheels have flat seat stud holes, because due to flat design it will ignore the +0.65mm gap and will only tight the wheel to the hub, while the centric job will be done by the hubcentric match;

3. Buy wobble nuts that has a conical head with 2mm gap to the lock point and will clear the +0.65mm gap;

4. Buy adapters (spacers with hub specs in one side and wheel specs in the other side) but this will increase the overall ET making it impossible to mount fat lip wheels.

With all the research that i made about the theme, i believe that any of the 4 options is acceptable. It depends only how your peace of mind accept "different wheels specs" with such a insignificant differences to our OE wheels specs that i can say has the same specs.

 

I thought the Jag bore center was 73.8mm?

 

let us know how your wheel project goes Tiago, you're definitely one of the few that have jumped off that bridge, curious to see how it turns out.

 

I made a search in google about 73.8mm and indeed show it as jaguar center bore. But i've seen several wheels manufacturers saying that is 74.1mm.

Once the web is full of BS i will measure the CB with a vernier caliper to be sure. Either way if it has 73.8mm, any shop specialized in metal parts is able to make rings to increase the center bore to 74.1mm.

 

Check coventrywheels.com. They make wheels specifically for Jaguars. They give the bore as 73.9. I must say, there seems to ba a lot of contradictory information out there concerning Jaguar wheel fitment!

 

I too, wanted to replace my 18 inch factory allloys with 20 inch chrome wheels on my 2006 Jaguar XK8. I went to several custom wheel shops and found out because the Jaguar uses a staggered set up, ( rear wheels are 1.5 inches wider ) that my options were very limited. So I ended up special ordering a set from DUB that are being custom made. They will come mounted and balanced so it will be just like changing a tire, but 4 times. I also ordered a set of the brake caliper covers on Ebay to add some color to the car, and will install them when I change out the wheels. I got them on line from Mr. Wheel Deal. They come with locking chrome lug nuts and I also bought a set of chrome locking valve stem covers. The tires are UHP all season Falken FK452. Total package was $4200.00. I know it's steep, but I love the car and I think it will look great!

 

Here is the result:



More here: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...648#post260648