Ok got a new battery for the xkr today and was going to start it to put it on ramps for the grounding strap. Appears the key transponder isn't being recognized. In my area no one will touch a jaguar so this is all on me. The car obviously had rain get into it as the driver's side fuse box was damp. I intend to let it dry out tomorrow but in the meantime I did the old set the alarm and turn the key to see if alarm would go off, it did letting me know the car is not recognizing the key. I want to ensure I really check over the fuse that controls the key and ensure it has power. Any suggestions of something to try? Car has been sitting for 3 months with nothing done to it no battery connected. Therefore guess a good electrical layout and fuse box diagram would help get me started.

 

Hi,
You can download the 2003 Electrical Guide from member Gus' site of everything here:
http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto.../jagxk2003.pdf

Do you have another key you can try?

 

Sadly no I do not. It came to us with 1 key and good ol gus. I was wondering if he was still around I helped him once with windows 7 and the jag diag tool. Miss talking to that guy and man he knows these cars well.

 

Yes, he's very much still around and active on this forum.

 

EDIT*** Pull ALL the fuses one by one in the LH driver's door fuse box FIRST to check for a blown fuse...before doing whats described below,,,

​​​​​​​I had a lot of pain and suffering with this issue and if it were me and I KNEW there was water, and post water I had a key problem, I would do the following. And this is why. The "box" that is the key transponder is just that, a box/basket, and if water got in it's not easy for it to get out on its own. What I'm going to say requires a bit of work so really think on it before you go ahead.

- Remove the instrument cluster decorative cover.
(Optional is discon battery and remove the entire instrument cluster - makes life easier)
- Remove the LH air vent decorative cover.
- From under the dash (search for it) remove a small Philips screw that secures the plastic HVAC vent that comes across the dash and back side of the ICluster...
- As best you can move vent out of the way.

You will see the key transponder module (size of a cigarette pack) sitting there at the extreme LH side of the dash cavity screwed down with two small torx bolts. Unplug and remove and CHECK for a pool of water in the aluminum box. If there was a short, tolerances of the circuit board inside of the aluminum box is so tight that you will see evidence (burns) of the short on one of the walls of the box. It sucks! Also, check the wiring.

It could be that there is NOTHING there. And all was for not.
It could be that there is still water or moisture, and nothing shorted (YET) but that the water is mixing up the flow of electricity in the board wreaking havoc.
It could be that you need a new KTM...

Again, if you do all this and this ain't it,,, I still want you to send me them Christmas presents - and stuff.

 

And,,, if it's not tooooo late. Do NOT try to use the key again until you've confirmed the inside of that box and all it's wiring is dry...

Pull ALL the fuses one by one in the LH driver's door fuse box FIRST (before doing what I'm describing above) to check for a blown fuse... Maybe I should have said that first!? I'll edit my previous post!

But I would bet you have water in the KTM...

 

I am picking up fuses in just a few and going to just replace them all just in case there is a hairline crack or something I can't see. If that doesnt do it I will put my big boy pants on and dismantle the dash. Thanks for the reply it helps to know what and where I'm looking. I plan on setting up a PC for the jag software. Any suggestions on a cable for this. Not sure I want to spend 3k on a cable but might try a clone if anyone has had any luck with those.

 

Here's the thing,,, just to give you a more relaxing sleep.

If a fuse blew, it blew for a reason. If it were me, before potentially applying electricity to whatever blew that fuse in the first place (if one in fact is blown) I would get eyes in the internals of that module...

How much water are we talking? And, from what source?

 

It came in from driver's window down windshield.pillar. Not sure the window was up all the way it was up but could be leak. Going to replace the weather stripping. The wrapping on the wire harness is very wet to the touch running down the side of the fuse box. I've got the vent out I see it but can't get the vent hose to move.or.find the screw. Do I need to completely remove the panel under the steering wheel as well?

 

Just a question before I really try and get this transponder out. Would the fob work if it's the problem?
I have a heater and dehumidifier running in the car to dry it out. My local jag dealer wants 375buck and the car for a new key. That seems way over priced. Any suggestions on getting a second key for the car instead of being raped my crappy dealer (they suck I took my car there once and swore never again because 1800.00. later I had to replace my door handle after they messed it up)

 

Hi,
the fob should still work, all things being equal.
It talks to the security module in the trunk, which is more concerned with perimeter security (doors, trunk, hood, etc.) than immobilisng the car

 

Can you clarify if you are talking about the fob/remote that locks/unlocks the doors and opens the trunk, or the crypto chip in the key handle that allows the engine to start?

If the car has been sitting and batteries have been messed with, you might want to check if the inertia switch somehow tripped.

And yes, there are ways to obtain an additional working key. From memory, folks have found pre-made S-Type style integrated fob and key for an XK8/XKR on eBay. Key stem has to be cut to your car (tibbe 8-cut, check the forum classified) and then programmed to your car (software procedure).

 

+1

 

Sad to say, yes. I didn't mention that... My bad. But, it just 2 10mm bolts. Takes 2 seconds.

What I've learned in my short time working on cars is that the benefit and time, curse words and strange body language, progress and not breaking things ect that comes with just taking things apart to get at the "thing",,, pays off.

The little screw that you will be looking for is waaaay up there in the extreme LH corner of the in-dash space. Its tab is built into the plastic material covered vent that runs left from the center of the dash. Once seen, not so hard to remove, but a little bit of a challenge to get back in. A dab of tape holding the screw on the tip of the driver on reassembly is your friend here.

 

Just to add to Jay's excellent instructions, the 2 bolts on bottom of knee bolster need only be loosened. The plastic bolster has a U shaped notch to fit over each of these 2 bolts. Press in fitting on to left right.

Loosen bolts, pull back on top lift out. Now disconnect the wire to the climate sensor top right. And valet switch top left.

I went through describing this because if you're like me and have taken the bolts out - first you gotta hunt them down after working 2 or 3 hours on everything else, and you can be sure Mr Murphy now visits - where exactly are those darn bolt holes :-)

Yeah I've done this once or twice.

John