Just bought our first Jaguar this week. 2000 XKR convertible with 95,307 miles on it. Seems to be very clean. Top looks new, so I'm guessing it has been garaged. Car Fax shows some dealer service and some non-dealer service. Since I'm just learning about these cars and don't have a service tech, we plan to take it to the dealer (here in Chattanooga) for its 100,000 mile service. Is that sensible?

No noticable issues.

MAF replaced at 26k. EGR tube/hose replaced at 50k. Battery in 9/2005. "Convertible top operation checked" in 7/2009 at 87k - dealer says they replaced hydraulic lines.

The only thing I feel so far is something in the front end. Kind of clicking onse in a while - maybe a ball joint? or tires? Has almost new Riken Raptors.

Anything I should watch for on the car or dealer?

I'm guessing the top operation service should preclude the green shower, eh?

Thanks for a fabulous forum. Learning already. Just not much time to read it.

David - Abby's Guy
2000 XKR Convertible
Silver w/black top

 

If the timing chain tensioners have not been replaced this needs to be done immediately. This can cause the timing chain to slip and result in catastrophic engine failure. There's a how-to in the FAQ thread.

Mark

 

Here's the maintenance schedule for your car:

XK8 - 1999MY Service Schedule.pdf

Items for 100K service in the right hand column.

Regardless of location, the Jaguar Dealer is always the most expensive route for servicing but has the expertise.

These vehicles are very sensitive to battery condition and a six year old battery may be nearing the end if its useful life.

There are many possibilities for the front end 'click' but common wear items are upper suspension bushes / rear cross member mounts.

Graham

 

The above comment on Jaguar dealers being the most expensive is very true. Unless you have experience with high end European cars the 100k dealer 'service' will come as a very big shock to you. I would suggest that you become familiar with what is in that service schedule and educate yourself here on the forum by using the 'search' capability.

You seem to have been able to acquire some repair history on the car. Anything on the tensioners? Documenting that issue, replaced or not, should be the first thing on your list of things to do. 'MJLARIS' is absolutely correct that a failure will result in a destroyed engine and it is a very common failure. See the FAQ sticky above for more information than you ever wanted to know about this subject. Unless you have an invoice for the replacement a valve cover needs to be removed to make that determination. Cost to replace is about $1200 dealer, $800 indy, $200 DIY and it is not a difficult DIY project. If you would attempt to replace the water pump you can do the tensioners.

The front end issues are, indeed, more common on these cars than one would like. A front end inspection and quote for repairs would be appropriate.

My point is that knowledge is going to help reduce a potential unpleasant surprise at the cost of maintaining these cars and this forum is absolutely full of information and experience.

. . . welcome to the forum and the wonderful world of Jaguar!

 

Sounds like you have a nice example, good luck with it.

Remember, you have a 12 year old car so some items are nearing the end of their useful life. Don't get fretful about "poor quality" when, in fact, the issue is mostly just time.

I'd put tensioners as #1 on your list. I'd also look into changing the transmission fluid - lots of thoughts about that on the forum. A pressure deduction valve installed on the power top system might prolong your hose life and make you feel more comfortable. Much discussion about that, as well.

Hoplefully the rest will just be maintenance items.

The important thing about older cars is just to use them. Inactivity for some reason seems to do more harm than good. I drive my 2000 every day, and it is very reliable considering the age.

Glad to have you as a member!

 

I doubt the 1999MY service schedule is different from the 2000MY but here is the 2000MY sheet.

bob gauff

 

Welcome to th Forum.

As already noted, tensioners should be at the top of the list. This one issue, if not corrected, has the greatest potential to wreck your engine and your wallet. Down the list check to see if you have the "newer" or old design water pump and replace accordingly. In addition, the brake fluid and engine coolant should have been replaced every few years. When you get around to it check the air filter and air intake all the way to the throat of the throttle body. It is quite likely that the throat/butterly in the throttle body opening will require cleaning...a very easy DIY job.

Lastly, find a reliable independent Jag tech/shop for the repairs you can't do yourself.

Enjoy the road ahead.

 

Here is the thread describing the replacement of the upper tensioners with pictures and all. Just click on it and read it all. There are a couple of tips in there that should help quite a bit. Please contact me either PM or on the forum if you have any questions. This must be done at least the upper tensioners. With that many miles the primary (lower) tensioners and rails may also need to be done. That is really a big job that I haven't done yet. However failure in that area does give some warning whereby the upper tensioners don't. Keep in contact with the forum.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ics-faq-52653/

EZDriver 2000 XK8

 

If you do not have chain noise at 111k does that indicate repairs have been done or the problem has not surfaced. The first dealer is out of business.

 

Chances are it's been done, but the only way to be sure is to physically check.

 

Wow! Thank you for all the good information and encouragement.

The dealer is talking about $700 for service, and yes, that's a definite increase from my 1989 Toyota pickup. Working full time and going to grad school full time leave little time for doing significant projects myself. It does look like a lot of the items on the list would take me just a few minutes and be a good opportunity to get to know my car. It also makes sense to me to find a good independent. Any recommendations for Chattanooga, Tennessee?

Thanks, again for they warm welcome, information, and direction. Looking forward to living in this community.

David

 

Whew! Good news. Dealer found their records of servicing this car - at 67,000 miles they changed the plugs, coils, fuel filter, AND TENSIONERS!!!! That was good news! Supercharger and serpentine belts looked good. I can go forth and enjoy my car!

Thanks for the encouragement, and info here. Looking forward to learning and eventually sharing here.

David

 

Congratulations on the resolution of the tensioner issue. That is the real killer on these cars.

Note that the coils were replaced. One or all? If all that is a symptom of dealer service. If one fails, the OBDII code will identify the specific cylinder and it can be replaced and that is a easy, short labor issue. Changing all is not maintenance practice but is more concerned with profitability.

Just holler if we can help.

 

Thanks, Test Point.

I should be able to check tomorrow on how many coils were replaced. The service manager told me today via phone and is going to make copies of the service history for me, after redacting previous customer information.

My wife confirmed her first impression today when she drove the car for the first time, "I'm a Jag girl!"

 

...find your clicking at the front? good guess its just the sway bar bushings, they last like a few years, if that. slow speed, small bumps or cracks, if she clinks/clunks, you can bet thats it. Its a DIY also, see the FAQ for pics and instructions. Just need to buy your parts from the dealer or try our forum sponsors Nalley Jaguar, Gaudin Jaguar and Jaguar of Plano. Nalley and Gaudin have repeatedly been proven to have the best 'online' parts prices (mention jaguar forum membership for discounts), Jaguar of Plano is our newest sponsor, and w/o actual experience to share of a purchase, not sure if they ship or not.

 

Thanks, H2Oboy, that's a good description of what I feel in the front end. No word from the mechanic, but we only have the car back temporarily.

My wife picked it up yesterday afternoon. They said they had to order the pollen filter, so we'll take it back Friday for that and a wash. They did a 100,000 mile service (95,500) minus LOF, air filter, and wipers (though, I see the washer fluid is not topped up as called for - hmmmm). Charged me for 1 MJD6863AA Filter Air and 1 NCA2211DA Belt-Drive. Noted that the tensioners are ok at this time and do not need to be replaced. 2-year brake system flush. Stated fuel filter and spark plugs were replaced at 67,000 miles in this shop. Stated supercharger belt is in good condition.

Ahhh, until 20 miles from the shop the amber warning light and RESTRICTED PERFORMANCE message lit up! Had it on cruise control. Had been doing 55 on a back road, enjoying the company and the car. Speed limit dropped to 45, so I held the minus button until we slowed to 45. After about 1 mile (slowing) the lights came on. Then CEL came on. WHAT????

Shop was closed, so we went on to dinner. Light went off, except CEL. Drove it today and found: It seems to go into restricted when I coast for a ways, as when we coasted down from 55 to 45.

While the restricted performance light is on, the engine cuts out at about 3,000 RPM, and when the light is off, it revs normally. This seems normal per design. If I get on the gas for a bit, more than just maintaining speed, but accelerating, the RESTRICTED goes away and all seems normal, except the little engine outline on the display.

Pulled the codes at a parts store: P0174 & P0175 (I think) Rich - banks 1 & 2.

Wife is taking it back to the dealer in the morning to get the filter installed and they will look at it. Wondering if they might have left off a hose or done anything to cause this or it's just coincidental that it was fine before going in.

I did see some oil in the air intake above the air filter, so plan to clean out the part load orifice.
I also feel much better owning this car with the knowledge that you on this forum are backing me. Thank you so much.

 

Truer words cannot be said.

I also have a 1966 MGB and most of my winter maint, is replacing things that time has claimed. Car is reliable and I do not worry about it breaking down.

The more things you learn to do yourself the easier everything seems to become after that.

Enjoy your Jag.

 

Disregard, you said air filter, not pollen (or cabin) filter.

 

Right, I had them disregard air filter. However, they ordered the pollen filter, but when Abby took in the car for the pollen filter this morning, they said there was NO box for it. Said Jaguar no longer makes it and no parts houses have them. Ideas?

 

Dealer confirmed codes for Rich, banks 1 and 2. Said it was probably caused by running rich!!!! Cleared the codes. Wife was driving (I was working) and RED overheating light came on when she parked (after driving for an hour to reset sensors and pass smog test - passed). Scared her so she shut it down. As it cooled, I told her (by phone) to take it back to the dealer (which was nearby) and turn up the heat. She made it to the dealer and the service adviser said that somehow, apparently over time, the fan connection worked loose and it became disconnected so it overheated. They plugged it back in and everything should be fine.

I forgot to reconnect a fan one time and had a similar experience. Are these fan connections really prone to self-disconnecting? Seems a little odd, to me.

Drove fine for me for most of an hour. Then, while accelerating briskly out of a low speed corner, the amber light came on with the message "ASC". I was probable doing about 35-40 MPH and around 4,000 RPM. ASC doesn't show up on a forum search. Anyone know what it means? Or where I can find a list of message meanings?

Car ran fine. About 10 minutes later I paused by the road (engine running) to put the top up as a thunderstorm blew in. Drove through the rain for another 10 minutes and parked for four hours. When I started up again it was in RESTRICTED PERFORMANCE mode, and said so. A mile later, speeds up to 40 MPH, I stopped the car, turned off the engine, restarted, and everything was fine. Drove home and parked it.

Are these signs of a deteriorating MAF (replaced at 26k, now at 95k), or battery (6 years, 6 months old)?

Really liking the car, and friends response to it!