Thanks guys. Once I make sure its also running well on nitrous, I will take it to the dyno and do a few pulls off and on spray. Hopefully we see some gains...

I have a neighbor that has a real big Doberman named Sunny. Anytime he's out he will start barking and growling like crazy at anyone who's nearby. He has a loud and deep toned bark. Anyway, one day I was working on the Jag out side and he annoying the hell out of me. I walked towards him to see if I could get him to shut up and he put his head down and ran away. I realized he gets scared very easily. After that, all I do when he barking non-stop is jump at him and he runs away. Point it, he's all bark/growl and no bite. Neighbor tells me even though he's giant, he's actually still a puppy.

I hope the Jag is not like Sunny. All growl and no bite. We will see

 

@jazzyjags
By having the TB a tad higher might reduce the turbulence at the back side where the air has to turn 90 degrees into the intake elbow. Have no idea what it could add, but my guess is it could be beneficial.

 

Nice one with Dobie - But is like don't try this at home . I know Dogs is off topic , but it seems funny- I own 2 of these- mother and son. Same thing one of my friends tested- is a fact :
If you do the trick with her mother- next step will jump on you and start tear you apart. Insead,his son not so brave, but still no head down or run away .

 

Thread is up - -

3 More Poll votes , and we go for next lot manufacturing.

None from USA yet. Pending for the people who want one of this kind TB 83mm
Here is the new video - how is made

 

Update:

So far no major issues with the performance or reliability after 3 weeks and 300-400 miles. I get a CEL code for higher volume idle air flow or something like that, I dont remember the P# right now. But otherwise is dialed in fairly well now.

The only downside I have noticed is since it idles just a bit higher, it generates more heat. If the car is parked or sitting in traffic idling it runs about 20*F higher than it used to. This is even with the low temp T-stat I have installed. Its not running hot, but higher than I would like especially considering summer temps here will be 40*-50*F hotter than it is now. The intake itself feels hotter to the touch and the intercoolers are hotter well. If driving on the highway, its just fine and runs at the temps I have it set up for. I did verify air has been bled from the cooling system, cooling fans working, and no overall issues with the cooling system. I just think its alot to keep up with at this point. A few days ago I installed a 10"pusher fan (jumped it from intercooler pump so the fan runs any time the pump does) on the intercooler heat exchanger and that has helped with the intercooler temps.

AFR's have been perfect. So far the Pro M 90mm MAF has been great and no issues with readings or mix being off.

I have not done a nitrous pull yet to see how it does. Curious, as it lights the tires (R888r) up from a 50 roll already.

Performance is improved, might take it to dyno next week to see the numbers. The exhaust sounds a little better, mainly just louder/more aggressive especially while parked or stopped. And you can hear a slight intake/supercharger whistle on idle and part throttle. Cant tell exactly what it is (not a vac leak), but I think its from the air being sucked through the intake filter, but it sounds cool, almost like the big blower cars. I also noticed it takes a little longer to slow down when let of the gas, might be because of the ported plenum and throttle body spacer leaves more residual air to be consumed once the valve is shut. This is not an improvement nor an issue, but just something I have had to adjust to. This made me curious to what the boost levels are now. I saw that under WOT, boost is around 14 psi and as the RPM's go up closer to redline I end up seeing close to 15.5 psi


I think it could really benefit from a custom tune. I will try to work that out soo enough as well.

 

Not sure if you've done the intercooler pump upgrade, but the intercooler radiator can be upgraded too. This is the cheapest place I've found it so far. They're the ones who make the unit Paramount & EuroToys sell

 

Nice job!
Question on the pusher fan. As far as I know the intercooler pump is on whenever engine is on, So you might be counterproductive if you're going at fast speeds and your pusher fan is still on? Maybe thermostat start based on intercooler temps would be better? Idle issues can be resolved in a custom tune. When I installed a ported throttle body I had to adjust in ECU wide open throttle opening as it was a few degrees short of full opening with new tb. What's the difference with intake temperatures with your pusher fan on at idle?

 

My understanding is the same place makes them for everyone. Look on ebay. I seen it cheaper

 

I actually upgraded both intercooler pumps a while back (first one was by accident). Thanks for the link! I have considered this before but found the price to be to steep from Eurotoys. I do have a full meth kit in the garage, I will install that first. That should help with the charge temps, but once I get that on, I will re-evaluate the bigger intercooler.

 

That's a good point, as far as I have observed, it seems to help. If I take it for a ride on the highway and pull over and put my hand on the intercoolers they are fine. My main issue has been in traffic or waiting at stoplights. After a few minutes of that they would be very hot. Recently with this fan, it seems to have helped with that issue, and I haven't noticed any drop in performance on the highway pulls.

The scanner I leave plugged in for live data only shows IAT1 (tempt coming from the thermistor I wired in with the PRO M Maf). I believe IAT2 is where I would see a difference from the intercooler temps. I have not been able to confirm that, but you can definitely feel when its heat soaked and pulled timing vs when its maintaining decent temps and doesn't drop in power. Florida heat and traffic is a real killer.

 

Anyone else ever get their TB on??

 

I do, but I'm not very happy with it yet - the installation and result, not the product. The product itself is amazing quality.

I've fabricated a 5mm spacer for the EGR, wich led me to ditch the new EGR I recently installed because the tube doesn't have enough movement/play in it. Which in turn led to creating and EGR bypass with some spare aluminium and a couple of 6mm (internal diameter) barbed hose connectors.

I have taken a lot of measurements of the throttle blade angle and the TPS position (with a multimeter) when setting up the new TB but the car doesn't seem happy for some reason. Short Term Fuel Trims are bang on between -3% and +3% but idle is a bit higher than expected and the revs seem to hang when going off throttle - so much so that it developed DTC P0507 (Idle RPM too high). Drivability has taken a big hit because of this, engine braking is almost non-existant as the revs just hang so much.

Surely i've missed something when setting up the throttlebody but I'm not sure if this is caused by the TPS being a bit off angle, or needing a calibration through IDS. Or if this is caused by the throttle blade being too open on it's idle setting, but I'm not keen on taking the intake off again to change the idle screw to test this.

 

I also experienced the high idle and the rev hang. It took tons of adjusting of the TPS to find a point where the car is decently happy. It does still throw that same code every now and then though, but most of the time it doesn't. I figured it could be tuned out eventually. I wasn't sure if it was the TB, or the fact that I also ported the plenum and supercharger outlet and that causes what you described. It runs strong though, when its running. I took mine down in early Feb to do a few more upgrades and haven't turned it on since. Hopefully I get it running soon and can drive it to the Jag meet in NC.

You are right though, at this point for me the drivability is out the door, not just because of the TB and intake upgrades, but exhaust, fuel and a few other things just make it a weekend, track (dragstrip) or show car. Not a practical daily any more. I'm fine with that.

Glad to hear someone else got it installed and running. I believe that makes 3 of us now.

 

So has anybody found an alternative to maxbore?

Iv got the 4 XKR

 

I have recently discovered this thread, the new TB sechtor makes is heaven sent for twin screw owners.
Only thing for me is that I already have a maxbored TB to 81mm, so gains for me would be minimal.

Unless, of course, there is more "meat" on the sechtor 83mm than on the bired out 81mm - in whitch case it could be bored by maxbore to a bigger size.

Cristian, could you please tell me the wall thickness near the TPS? Is there a safety margin built into the TB as to its strength, so I could go to the limit? As the one who knows it best, could you give me a guess as to the max diameter I could squeeze from it? I can take a calculated risk on boring it out.

Or, if the TB is already at the limit, how hard would it be for you to adapt the design to fit say a 90mm TB?

The Kenne Bell is still out of the car, and I am porting out Avos' intake to fit the larger 3.0 from the original 2.6 unit. The TB side of the elbow is 84mm, but I bet I can squeeze a bit more out of it.

 

keep in mind guys on 08 4.2xkr I ran into an issue with a bigger butterfly and port of stock tb, it would not open all the way at WoT by few degrees , so had to be adjusted in the ECU tune.

 

@Matei Dima
Another way would be to use a 90mm TB, for instance the Hemi ones that I use. All you need is to alter the signal for TPS1 and 2, you could ask if Cambo can tune that as well, if he knows the location of the data, it should be easy. Otherwise an extra ECU to alter only the TB signals would also be an option.
However you would need to check if it fits under the hood on your setup 1st, as it may not...

 

Are the bolt holes the same spacing? or is the intake you were making for the Stage II XKRs set up for the different intake? If I get a 90mm hemi off ebay, does it also bolt to the intake you made for the XJR? Any tips on how to wire? Which wires to which pins?

I will ask Cambo about this. After my experience with the aftermarket MAF, and especially after the *friendly* words from the ProM owner, I'd try and avoid aftermarket ECUs if it can be done through a recalibration.

 

No the bolt pattern doesn't fit, you need to make an adaptor plate, these are about 80mm by 80mm.
An alternative might be the LS7 90mm TB, that one may fit easier under the hood, but what I am not aware if with these TBs if they have a similar TPS sensor that can be converted easily like the Hemi ones.

 

One more thing, even you find a way to modify this 83mm TB as offered in this thread, you still need to adjust the TPS signals, or tune the ECU as up from 85mm somewhereish ( for sure from 90mm) you will get ECU errors on rationality checks (airflow vs throttle opening).