I’m the proud owner of a recently acquired 2005 Jaguar XKRconvertible. I absolutely LOVE this car and while I’m new to this forum, I’m certainlynot new to the Jaguar marque. If I’m up late at night, I’ll actually spend sometime just sitting in the car admiring the details of this machine. The vehiclecurrently has 37,000 miles on it and here’s what I’ve noticed needs attention.I appreciate all responses and am happy to be an active member of this community.



1. The passenger side window drops the required amount (notsure of exact measurements) when a passenger exits the car, but it raises backup immediately when the handle is released. The driver’s side drops and staysdropped until the door is closed and then it raises back into the establishedposition. I also noticed that when the passenger door handle on the exterior islifted the window drops and remains, but if I lift the handle again, it dropsfurther. If I continue lifting the handle occasionally, the window willeventually drop all the way down. I have read about resetting the window switchesand have tried that, but haven’t had any luck. Additionally, and likelyrelated, the puddle light nor the interior light(s) will come on when thepassenger door is open. The computer error display gives no indication that thepassenger door is open – like it does with the driver’s door is opened. I’mthinking it’s the switch I’ve read about on in here, but what exactly is itcalled and roughly how much is it? What do you guys think? Are these twoproblems related?



2. I have the dreaded headrests problem on both seats. I’veread about how to repair them using various remedies, but am curious to know ifJaguar still repairs these and if any member has had a dealer repair this item.I live in NY and in PA and this car is lightly driven on the weekends duringthe warmer months, so it’s difficult to always get to a dealer and to start aproject I may not be able to finish. Your thoughts?



3. Both the driver’s and passenger’s side mirrors have limitedmobility using the door switch. Sometimes they’ll turn right to left, but rarelyup or down. Could this just be the door switch?



4. The transmission does have the “bark” that other membershave referenced to. This only happens at the 3rd and 4thgear changes. Is it hurting anything to leave it alone until I have the transmissionflushed? I read that there is this additive that will eliminate the problem,but I’m not sure what it’s called.



5. Is there anything else I should expect to go wrong withthis model? Any preventative maintenance I need to do? The car will be parkedfor six (6) months out of the year.



Thanks for all your help!

Jeremy

 

Welcome to our group!

1. Before you repair anything check the voltage across your battery in the trunk after the car has not been driven overnight. If it is under 12.3-12.4 volts replace the battery and attempt the window reset procedure again. Even if it does not solve the problems with the door/window, a strong battery is a must on these cars.

2. I am sure a dealer can fix the headrests at a cost, but it is not a hard DIY if you are a bit handy. Just because there is a TSB, does not mean it is a free repair when out of warranty.

3. Resolve the battery before going further here also.

4. The bark is not really harmful. Either the additive or a fluid change will solve it. A fluid change would be smarter in terms of extending the life of your transmission.

5. A battery maintainer and/or switching to an AGM batttery will be needed if you are not driving 6 months out of the year. Sears has an AGM battery for this car now.

 

Also did you get a bumper to bumper extended warranty? with the mileage on the car a platinum warranty will be very economical! it only makes sense with any high end vehicle...

 

Hope you get everything worked out!
FYI, as much as you love your new convertible, my advice it to get the remote top module! There's nothing like simply pressing your key fob and raising and lowering the top. Heaven!!
Best thing I've done! (And I've done a LOT!)
It's from jagwrangler.com. Whitexkr on this site.

 

I had a CNA aftermarket warranty that was very good, but still they managed to come up with issues that they would not pay for. Surprisingly, the headrest fix was one of them. (claimed it was an "adjustment"???)
My local dealer offered to do the fix for $250/seat while doing about $1000 of CNA covered issues, which I refused since I knew the fixes on the forum for the headrest.
Turned out that my passenger seat had had the headrest "dealer repair" that had also failed.
I think that the 5/16" hose coupling fix is best (brass or plastic if you can obtain them) Also, someone reported that they shortened the cable housing and recrimped the metal end cap just as the original was.
My fix was to use split Tygon tubing with hose clamps which going on 3 years has proven to work well. (On occasion I run the headrests up and down just daring it to break again)

 

I am glad you are pleased with the Remote Top. It does mean a lot coming from you after all the cool upgrades you have performed!!

 

I did not see where anyone suggested the hydraulic pressure reduction for the top.

I would recommend that before the remote top mod just to eliminate the possibility of watching the green shower from a distance.

 

Thanks for the responses. Are the hydraulic lines common to failure. Rothwell, could you provide me with a little more information on your suggestion?

Thanks!

 

Start here
JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

Searching for green shower will turn up a few horror stories as well.

 

Yes, Hydraulic lines prone to crack at the top latch area. There is a mod you can do (it's somewhere here on the forums) that lowers the pressure hypothetically lengthening the life of your lines.

Oh- and welcome, fellow Snyder.

 

This should give you a good idea of what NOT doing the pressure reduction could lead to.

 

That Youtube clip still slays me every time I see it. I think it is from one of our San Francisco-area members....

Those of you whose wives are the primary drivers, make sure you show them this clip so they will understand and be prepared if and when the "demons in the Jaguar" decide to strike....

 

Yeah I can't help but laugh. Although I do sympathize with Johan. He was in for a bad night.

 

My goodness! That is one scary video. Probably a silly question, but is the roof design the same for all years 1996 -2006? How concerned should I be with mine failing since the car only has 37,000 miles. Thanks!

 

It is the same for all years, however some '97 cars had more durable hoses that seem to not be susceptible to the problem.

It is impossible to predict if/when the hoses will fail, but they can be inspected for visible deterioration such as a peeling outer jacket. They can also proactively be replaced with aftermarket hoses that are probably considerably more durable, but only time will tell for sure.

 

rothwell,

I think she's opening her video with "Yo, hun...." as a term of endearment, not Johan....

Either way, you're right - it had to be a bad night all the way around....

 

I just bought my 04 a couple months ago with 38000 on it. I put the top down once and never moved it again until I did the pressure reduction mod.

I inspected my latch area and no leaks yet but I still plan to do the hoses very soon. Along with that video, my dealer has told me stories of the green goo getting into the dash and gauges of some cars they fixed. I am not taking any chances.

I also scored a new latch valve ($40 on ebay. woot!) and am about to get the better lines. One weekend soon I'll be doing it all for peace of mind.

 

Thanks for the information. I've been reading over the roof modification info and the headrest repair info and am starting to build a little confidence to tackle these projects myself. My guess is I'll just purchase all three switches for the door latch problem and see which one I need to replace. I do like the fittings for the cable for the headrest repair, though it doesn't seem like a lot is being cut off the cable. Thanks!

 

C'mon it's only been 2 hours, you can't have done more than scratch the surface.

 

Just a reminder that the 1/2" length of housing to be removed is the effective length and actual length of housing removed may vary with a particular coupling. I suggest having two reference marks, one above and one below the coupling on the housing that is a measured length before you start. After completion, those two marks should be 1/2" closer together.