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Old Sep 26, 2013 | 09:15 PM
  #21  
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The headrest fix is a lot simpler than the TSB procedure.

You don't really need any parts. Just...
  • cut the existing crimped end off,
  • remove the small bit of plastic conduit inside the crimped sleeve,
  • expand the crimped metal so you can slide the conduit back in,
  • stick the now shorter conduit fully into the uncrimped metal sleeve
  • crimp it once again

That is what I did and it works perfect. A lot easier and cheaper than adding parts to the cable.
 
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Old Sep 26, 2013 | 10:20 PM
  #22  
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The passenger window problem sound like a simple reset. Take the window all the way down and keep holding the switch until you hear a click, then take the window all the way up and do the same. Problem should be cured after that.

As for the hoses, unless they were already replaced with steel braided ones, you will experience the "green shower" at some point. It's only a matter of when not if.
 

Last edited by tberg; Sep 27, 2013 at 03:43 PM.
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Old Sep 26, 2013 | 10:38 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by rothwell
The headrest fix is a lot simpler than the TSB procedure.

You don't really need any parts. Just...
  • cut the existing crimped end off,
  • remove the small bit of plastic conduit inside the crimped sleeve,
  • expand the crimped metal so you can slide the conduit back in,
  • stick the now shorter conduit fully into the uncrimped metal sleeve
  • crimp it once again
That is what I did and it works perfect. A lot easier and cheaper than adding parts to the cable.
If I had to do this fix over again and if the housings have not been previously cut, I would be game to try this method.
 
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Old Sep 27, 2013 | 01:26 PM
  #24  
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Seems like a good approach. So I'm cutting the actual cable not just the sheathing, right?
 
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Old Sep 27, 2013 | 01:37 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Jsnyder0828
Seems like a good approach. So I'm cutting the actual cable not just the sheathing, right?
No, you are still cutting the sheathing only, just at the end instead of somewhere in between.
 
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Old Sep 27, 2013 | 01:53 PM
  #26  
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Do NOT cut that cable! You'll be in a world of hurt if you do....
 
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Old Sep 27, 2013 | 01:56 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by WhiteXKR
No, you are still cutting the sheathing only, just at the end instead of somewhere in between.
I cut it right at the edge of the crimped metal. Once around with a sharp blade will do it. The cable is steel so it won't be damaged easily.
 
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Old Sep 27, 2013 | 02:45 PM
  #28  
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I tried doing the reset, but I never head the "click." I held down the switch for 15 seconds.
 
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Old Sep 27, 2013 | 02:47 PM
  #29  
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Got it! Guess I'm really ignorant with these things! For some reason I just cannot wrap my head around the actual problem and how only shortening the outer sheathing helps. Guess I'll need to get in it to actually inspect everything.
 
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Old Sep 27, 2013 | 03:06 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Jsnyder0828
Got it! Guess I'm really ignorant with these things! For some reason I just cannot wrap my head around the actual problem and how only shortening the outer sheathing helps. Guess I'll need to get in it to actually inspect everything.
It is just your basic speedo cable drive setup. The cable inside needs to be about a half inch longer so that the square ends don't work themselves out of the sockets they plug into. Some engineer goofed on the math when they spec'd the cable.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2013 | 04:22 PM
  #31  
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Got it. I'll give it a go and see how it turns out.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2014 | 08:27 PM
  #32  
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Hi Everyone,

So, it's been a while since I've posted last, but I'm going to tackle my headrests and the door switch this weekend and will provide an update. I purchased the door latch for the passenger's side off of Ebay. While I tried to reset the windows, it'd didn't resolve the door puddle light or the interior lights when the door was open.

On a separate issue, the driver's side heat button and power functions failed, so I did some research and ended up switching the passenger's side module for the driver's side and got it working. I installed a replacement (off Ebay) for the passenger's side today and while it restored the power functions, the heat function still doesn't work. I'm left wondering if perhaps the replacement module is funky or if I'm not checking something. I guess I could swap modules again, but I really want to go through switching them again. What would you guys suggest?

Finally, I'm wondering if Gus at Jaguarrepair is still selling the hose bypass kit for the convertible. I've inquired but haven't heard a response from him. Anyone have any info on this?

Thanks!
 
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Old Apr 24, 2014 | 05:41 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by rothwell
This should give you a good idea of what NOT doing the pressure reduction could lead to.

Jaguar XK8 convertible green wife shower - YouTube
Hilarious! Ghostbusters - lol!
 
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Old Apr 25, 2014 | 03:28 PM
  #34  
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I know! That motivated me the first time. I wonder if the pressure reduction kits are still available. I reached out to the developer, but never got a response.
 
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Old Apr 29, 2014 | 10:21 PM
  #35  
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Default Headrest Repair Progress - Need Some Help

Hi Everyone,

Continuing to ride my wave of confidence after I fixed the seat module and door latch, I decided to repair the headrests in my car tonight. I ended up taking the seats out for easier access and really because I wanted to clean under them. :-)

So, I watched a few videos on how to do the repair and decided to go the route of simply cutting off the existing crimped end and then recrimping it again. Sometimes the cable engages in the motor and sometimes it doesn't. I'm not sure what to do. Should I make a splice in the sheath like the TSB states? The cable actually came out of the sheath and I reinserted it. I thought maybe it wasn't engaging at the end of the headrest but I can feel it "click" in when I feed it through. Any suggestions?

Thanks!
 
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Old Apr 30, 2014 | 09:55 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Jsnyder0828
Hi Everyone,

Continuing to ride my wave of confidence after I fixed the seat module and door latch, I decided to repair the headrests in my car tonight. I ended up taking the seats out for easier access and really because I wanted to clean under them. :-)

So, I watched a few videos on how to do the repair and decided to go the route of simply cutting off the existing crimped end and then recrimping it again. Sometimes the cable engages in the motor and sometimes it doesn't. I'm not sure what to do. Should I make a splice in the sheath like the TSB states? The cable actually came out of the sheath and I reinserted it. I thought maybe it wasn't engaging at the end of the headrest but I can feel it "click" in when I feed it through. Any suggestions?

Thanks!
Seems like the conduit is still a bit too long. I would just shorten it a bit more. You should be able to fit the drive cable into the headrest end and determine the appropriate conduit length to get the motor engaged securely on the other end.
 
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Old May 2, 2014 | 12:02 AM
  #37  
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Rothwell, THANKS for your advice on how to fix the headrest. I took your advice and last night completely repaired both headrests. APPRECIATE the help. :-)
 
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Old May 2, 2014 | 08:51 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Jsnyder0828
Rothwell, THANKS for your advice on how to fix the headrest. I took your advice and last night completely repaired both headrests. APPRECIATE the help. :-)
Glad it all worked out.
 
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