XK8 / XKR ( X100 ) 1996 - 2006

Norma Connector - replace seal?

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Old Feb 28, 2017 | 04:47 PM
  #21  
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XKR1975: I did end-up replacing the octopus hose assembly and I did not drain the radiator, only because I could not get the drain plug to budge and stopped as I did not want to break it.

I did drain the reservoir using a turkey baster. After that I just had a large catch pad under the octopus and removed the temp fix and let the coolant drain-out of the hose into the catch pad.

So doing this in a parking structure.....????.....you are going to spill coolant, no way around it so be prepared for that; catch pad, kitty litter, towels. Other than that being in a garage or parking structure is not much different except I did not have any cars parked next to me to worry about.

Good Luck.
 
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Old Mar 1, 2017 | 12:42 PM
  #22  
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Thank you very much Lannyl81 that was exactly the information i was looking for.
Based on this information i think i'll change strategy and find a proper garage.

Best
/Stig.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2017 | 09:42 PM
  #23  
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You can just remove the Octopus and let the coolant drain out if you don't have pets or don't care where the coolant goes. Replacing the beast isn't hard, just fiddly and intimidating. Start to finish it should take you about an hour. Old hose off: Take a LOOOONG screwdriver and position it against the ring on the right connector, just under the little tab. Give it a rap or two with a dead hammer and the collar slips back. Grab and twist like a ******* and it will come loose. You may have to tap it a bit with the screwdriver, but don't whale into it.
Clean the aluminum stub with steel wool.
Left connector is easy: take the same screwdriver and break off the tabs. The fitting falls apart. Clean the seat. Remove the other connectors with long pliers. Remove the hose from the left.

Here's the part that usually costs an extra hour: Put the old hose next to the new one and orientate the collars to the positions they will be easiest to access when the hose is put back in. This done, re-insert the new hose from the left.

Here's the part that lots of people forget and will shave another 30 minutes off the install: rub your fingers liberally with dish-washing detergent (I use DAWN) and anoint the inside of the fitting and the pipes they are connecting to. Push the left connector in first, not second, not fourth; but FIRST. Then fit the right connector. I found using an underhand grip works best (I do not have huge hands). WIGGLE THE CONNECTORS AFTER INSERTION TO ENSURE SEATING. Then connect the other hoses. I've done this a number of times and haven't had a failure yet.
Cheers,
Zaphod
 
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Old Mar 5, 2017 | 10:41 AM
  #24  
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Hi Zaphod

Thank you for your insights and sequence instruction. I'm positive it will prove invaluable when i get to doing mine.

I'll have to address the spill and i plan on just draining the coolant and using cups, spill pans, towels and what have you.

Thanks again.
/Stig.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2017 | 12:44 AM
  #25  
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Hey Zaphod, Before you start....
Some folks missed the point that the right side Norma Connector is easily released with a circular plastic fitting available in sets at any FLAPS. They are cheap, but the store might even loan you the set. The left side connector easily releases with just two small screw drivers placed under the catches. Don't sweat the Normas. They're easy. Just get that set of release tools.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2017 | 04:43 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by scardini1
Hey Zaphod, Before you start....
Some folks missed the point that the right side Norma Connector is easily released with a circular plastic fitting available in sets at any FLAPS. They are cheap, but the store might even loan you the set. The left side connector easily releases with just two small screw drivers placed under the catches. Don't sweat the Normas. They're easy. Just get that set of release tools.
Good point. I have used the release tools but find it easier to snap the right side fitting. The left side leaves little room to insert the ring upstream and no room to pull it back. You're throwing the old hose away anyway. Chacun a son gout.
Cheers,
Zaphod
 
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Old Dec 6, 2018 | 09:17 AM
  #27  
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1- Top view of the problem connector
 
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Old Dec 6, 2018 | 09:20 AM
  #28  
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2- steps to release the lock.


3- removed connector.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2018 | 09:29 AM
  #29  
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4- make a simple tool for removing the o-ring.


5- location of o-ring.

 
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Old Dec 6, 2018 | 09:32 AM
  #30  
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6- insert the tool into o-ring groove.


7- pull the o-ring out.


8- close look of the broken ring.

 
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Old Dec 6, 2018 | 09:39 AM
  #31  
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9- install the new ring.


10- connector with new o-ring.


11- metal rib holding the connector.

I did the O-ring replacement many years ago. Up to now, the hose still worked well, no leaking at all. Since I found that the pictures I posted in forum was lost, I reload them again today. see if it can help others.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2018 | 12:14 PM
  #32  
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Is this the dreaded octopus hose? If so, which connection?
 
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Old Dec 7, 2018 | 01:32 AM
  #33  
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That is the Octopus Hose MJA6728AC, coolant leaking is caused by the broken O-ring. Normally we should replace the whole hose set, but it will need a lot of labor work. Since the problem on my car is due to the o-ring only, I replace it as showed on the pictures. I made the similar change on another side, it is the problem of the O-ring too.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2018 | 07:48 AM
  #34  
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Say Toyman - could you post the specifics of the O-Rings in the Non-OEM parts thread? That would be a big help to folks. That's a great fix (and big cost saver). Thanks!
 
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Old Dec 7, 2018 | 08:22 AM
  #35  
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This job was done long time ago, I forgot that already. But I remember I found the o-ring size some place in Jaguar forum. Both the left and right side use the same o-ring even though the connectors are different. I will try to find it out again in forum and let you know once I got it
 
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Old Dec 7, 2018 | 08:26 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by scardini1
Say Toyman - could you post the specifics of the O-Rings in the Non-OEM parts thread? That would be a big help to folks. That's a great fix (and big cost saver). Thanks!
Scardini1, you can check post #5 of this thread.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2018 | 09:13 AM
  #37  
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Actually, it's 15/16" X 1 1/16" and 1/8 " wide. I just did this recently. They are not metric. Don't ask how I know.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2018 | 02:04 PM
  #38  
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[QUOTE=................Don't ask how I know. [/QUOTE]



We've all been there. ;-)
 
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Old Dec 8, 2018 | 11:56 AM
  #39  
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Kudos to you Toyman. Am always impressed with (1) someone who clearly explains the step-by-step procedures to tackle things like this and (2) actually knows how to use a camera and take clear close-ups with annotations!
 
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Old Dec 12, 2018 | 08:13 AM
  #40  
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Naturally this is done by someone with hands about the size of a 2yr. old. Toyman definitely did a great job.
Does anyone think these designs are by engineers who never plan to work on the cars. Maybe that is why we love them so much????
 
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