Hey all,


I posted about this awhile back. Had a speed sensor code. Changed conductor plate did sonnax valve sleeve upgrade and a new electrical plug. Standard stuff. No more CEL. Drove for over 100 miles no light. Sent in for inspection and he said nd the computer wasn't ready. Well I got the driving sequenced here to fix that, and when I got back to him he said don't worry I know them and will do it when I have time....Well he went through all the driving sequences so I was told and it still will not ready to inspect, He told me the vehicle speed sensor is not communicating.


SOOO I cant get it inspected which is driving me absolutely insane about now. Is this something a jaguar only diagnostic tool shuts off? As I said no light just the non communication issue. I went through the driving sequence here and used my wifi iphone scanner and it didn't give me a current code.


Am I missing something? could there be another issue? I don't want to bring it back and it still not be ready t inspect. I don't have much free time


Any ideas and comments are much welcomed


Thanks!


Damon

 

Sounds like one or more OBD monitors hasn't set. Any decent OBD tool can tell you which, even the $5+ elm327. Then you can try to figure why.

 

i faced a similar issue recently. my Bosch workshop with high end diagnostic tools was not able to read and clear all fault memories properly. went to a jag dealer and gave the order just to read and clear.

in my opinion you don´t have an speed sensor failure. the warning light (DSC /ABS failure) works properly and it should be present if a failure appears.

 

I recently replaced the connecter plate in a 2000XKR. It took about eight drive cycles for the P1111 to appear, but didn't have to do the sequences.

 

So I need a p1111 which means all monitors ready. I dont see that on my code reader. Now...I didnt mention it this time but I do have a faulty RH side ABS sensor which I already ordered. That wouldnt have anything to do with this would it?

 

I don't recall for certain, but I believe the wheel sensor will not result in P1000 instead of p1111. Are you sure it's the wheel sensor and not the cable? Sensor failure is uncommon while the cable is often at fault.

 

I am not sure but the cables looked fine and I had cleaned the sensors. I figured it cant hurt to change the sensor. If I still get the issue I know for sure its the cable. So I guess the issue again remains why the speed sensor issue still remains and I wont get a P1111. Could have checked resistance..That will for sure be nexct but my mind has been flustered with getting it inspected..Literally driving me batty

 

Throwing parts at a problem is a very expensive method, and not always successful. It would be a good idea to download the JTIS21 from the forum sticky, then use the wiring diagram to identify the pins that connect the wheel sensor cable to the abs module and check the resistance, which I think should be about 1040 ohm. Turning the steering wheel lock to lock while measuring the resistance will usually identify a break in the cable. The battery should be disconnected at the negative terminal before unplugging the module.

 

You can use this link for a wiring diagram.

Link JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

 

Thanks. I had written that down some time ago. Its just I have been travelling alot for work and then the car was at the shop for inspection so no time to do any of the resistance testing. In this case I wanted to make sure I had the part just in case(my time was a bit more valuable than the part) I should have picked up the wire as well. I dont mind having spares.

Like I said though Ill swap out the sensor and check resistance. My speed sensor in the conductor plate definitely failed and showed all the symptoms of it. Valve sleeves were worn in the valvbody and the conductor plate had a crack in it as well ...So my speed sensor issue made sence. I no longer get any transmission failure light.

Im not really concerned with the ABS issue at the moment uness it was associated with this larger than life (to me) issue. Im just not completely confident in how this engine control system works. All I know is It cant be inspected at the moment and I need to figure out why. I had already taken apart the ABS modual and resoldered just n case.

 

I can understand your problem of being unable to perform multiple drive cycles due to other commitments like work. It always seems to get in the way. Being in NYS I wonder if you can pass inspection with the abs fault. I have not lived there for many years but seem to recall the state inspection as being fairly comprehensive. Not as difficult as the English MOT, but not easy like here in the Atlanta area where they just test the emission system response.

 

If the OBD2 system is working properly, (in a Jaguar XK8-XKR) you should have either a P1000 (Monitor Tests Not Complete) or a P1111 (Monitor Tests Complete). In addition, there may, or may not, be various Trouble Codes.

If you do not have a P1000 OR a P1111, There is a problem with your Code Reader or the communication with the Car.

 

+1 that you should have either P1000 or else P1111 but they are pending codes so some readers suppress them (daft though that is).

If you wish to know more about how a modern (OBD II) car works then there are tons of articles on the net with details but start by thinking of each monitor as a sort of little part of the PCM (aka ECM; see my sig) that does what its name suggests (checks sensors for plausibility etc) and if happy it "sets" aka "completes".

A pic may help, showing the kind of vital sensors etc OnBoardDiagnostics.com - Engine Basics

 

I have a pending P1000. I scanned and it seems my EGR and Catalyst are now what isnt ready. I am going to do a few drive cycles over the weekend and retest. I did hav ebattery disconnected for some time after doing repairs as well as a hard clear. So perhaps I just need to do the drive cycle several times to get these monitors ready. Ill report back after. Ive just never had an issue like this with any other OBDII car Ive owned. Live and learn..Hopefully I learn!

Thanks everyone

 

Using my wifi scanner I checked and managed to get all monitors ready EXCEPT catalyst. I went through entire drive cycle properly,,,,THEN I did the catalyst only drive cycle about 5 times. Mind you 5 minutes at 55mph is rough in NYC and still difficult on the highway over here heading out east.


No luck. So It seems I may have to do the ENTIRE drive cycle 5 times or so to get this catalyst monitor ready from what Ive read. This is crazy


any pointers here?

 

Hopefully someone knowledgeable is semi following my plight here.


I was told of another way to do the catalyst test.


Basically start car (cold) and rev engine to 2500 in park or neutral for 5 minutes and then drive vehicle making sure to be over 10mph and 1500 rpm.


Well I did that and afterward I received two P codes (besides the P1000 pending)


P0171
P0174


Basically bank 1 & 2 lean. No engine lights or restricted performance. Going to do some soul searching here. Would or could this be an 02 sensor issue or a catalyst issue. Was this test proper? I had previously done the long drive cycles many times and the catalyst test 55mph for 5 minutes several times and those P cods never came up


Help?


THANKS!

 

im checking for leaks at maf

 

A monitor that won't set has something blocking it and it's usually a bad sensor or code or something where the PCM can't figure what on earth is going on so it's struggling to flag any code yet unhappy.

To get P0171/P0174 the fuelling has to be so way off that you ought to have been able to see it via OBD live data for fuel trims - so look at those as you hunt for the fault.

If you look (hot engine, parked) at idle & 2500rpm and the trim(s) head towards zero as you rev then you know you've an air leak. If they don't then it's not an air leak you're hunting for.

With an air leak you can see trims fluctuate if you spray something burnable (propane, MAF cleaner, ...) near enough the leak but do this with caution and well-ventilated so as not to start a fire!

 

Well I pulled the air intake pipe off an it looked fine UNTILL I poked at it. That's when a portion of the flex tube basically broke through. So I wrapped the entire tube and put it all back together, I also cleaned the MAF while it was apart.


I think I now have a OBDII scanner that can read fuel trims so I will try that next, Unsure if the tube was an issue but it was definitely close to becoming one.


Those two lean codes came on only after doing that 2500 rpm for 5 min. Never any of the other long drive cycles.


No I did spray some carb cleaner in the back of the blower area as it sounds as though I may have a leak there. Its so faint and so many different noises are around its hard to tell. I didn't get any idle fluctuation. Ill try looking at the fuel trims and use some MAP gas. I honestly didn't even think of that. Is there anything back there that is known to leak? TB gasket, inlet gasket, hoses??? Sometimes things are just prone to leak over time






Thank you much!

 

I recently replaced the EGR valve on a 2000. The original was not bolted tight and air was leaking into the manifold. Probably a weird exception, but with a map tip you can put some gas in that area, maybe. Not easy to reach.