I am in the process of installing a new octopus hose. My question in how does the Norma connector on the passengers side (port, US) work. It is the big black one with a green "shield" on it. There is no "lock" or other guide on the connector that I can find. It is the main heater line with the input arrow # 1 input from engine.

 

Sorry, no experience with this yet but from what I did read about it, like you said a new one comes with a green clip but I understood that it comes off when coupling engages.
Seems to be single use only?
All I've seen is people cutting the lock fingers off.

Next week maybe I am sure because on mine the non return valve (7) has cracked and is leaking...

 

Hmmm.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...estion-244067/

 

Hi,

Yeah just put my hose in today and it it is a PITA. From my experience on my car (2000 XK8) I think you should pull off the air intake, coolant header tank and the throttle body. Also best if you have a set of hose removal tools that have a good reach. Plus if you have a extra set of hands on call all the better. It is not technically that hard but there is very little space to work in. Below is a tool that for me was a must have. Good luck

 

You will not be changing the octopus hose but a serperate hose on the heater pump. I would still get the tool as access is going to be tight. On my car you would have to remove the header tank for access but may be able to leave the TB in place. Should be easier than the octopus hose, just sring clamps no Norma issues.

 

Thanks, I believe there are two non return valves, one next to pump and one in octopus hose. The latter had cracked. I could try to remove it in situe but expect I can't reach even with all parts around it removed...
Will see. Also need to find replacement valve. Think I will buy the little hose that contains the other valve as they seem similar. Saves a few bucks.

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I can't answer your question fully. I can share a little of my experience with it so far ('02 XK8 4.0L). I had to cut the old connector off. Mine was leaking at this connection/clamp and the only way I could find to remove it was to cut the plastic shroud off. When I tried to squeeze the 4 clips around the clamp they all broke off but the clamp/connector wouldn't release from the metal pipe so I cut the remains of the plastic shroud to remove it (slid it forward on the pipe). But ... underneath the plastic shroud is a metal band that wraps around the metal pipe and is 'frozen' to it somehow. Don't know how. Perhaps just corrosion. I hope, anyway.

Anyway, I left the metal band and whatever is beneath it attached to the metal pipe and continued to remove the rest of the hose. I successfully removed all the remaining clamps and hose ends but I could never figure out how to get the #%& hose out from under the trans tunnel. It looks to me like the trans has to be removed, or at least tilted down at the back, to get the hose out of the car. I hope I'm wrong about that but that's been my experience to date.

I was able to slide the rubber hose back over the metal band on the metal pipe and used a screw clamp to secure it to pipe/band. Then I reattached all the other hose ends and filled the system with coolant. I've driven the car around the block with no leaks and I'm waiting to schedule a time to get the car into a shop that specializes in premium euro cars to get this stupid thing replaced. The owner has been stalling for the last 3 weeks. Not sure what's going on.

Also, a word of advice. When you replace this hose you should also replace the plastic "Tee" behind the driver's head. I believe it suffers the same fate as the clamp/connector you're struggling with. Both of these "Norma" clamps/connectors appear to be 'use once' connectors. In order to remove them I believe you will destroy them. If, a year or two from now, that plastic 'Tee' cracks I doubt you'll be able to replace the plastic 'Tee' without have to replace the 'Octopus/Spider' hose AGAIN. The 'Tee' is only a $5 part and it's easy enough to replace while you're replacing the hose. Better safe than sorry.

Happy landings.

 

Thanks for the input just finished mine off today, no leaks so far! I did not have to remove the Norma fitting on the input side as it was all ready removed and it had a jubille clamp in its place, which didnt leak. I used the Norma fitting and both just snap into place. The input Norma took a lot of pressure to seat. I had to remove the air intake, throttle body and header tank for access. There is a post where someone says they left the TB in place, no way. On a XKR I do not know if the supercharger would have to be done. The image is the car this morning , all back to gether now. Just easy driving and checking coolant level. By the way the Octopus hose goes on the bottom up against the firewall.

 

I think you're describing the annulus that is formed on the metal pipe? The fingers/tangs on the Norma latch on to this to lock it in place.

There is a zip tie holding the octopus cunningly hidden in the transmission tunnel.

Good advice to replace the (cheap) plastic tee (NNE3944BA) along with the octopus. It can be disengaged by rotating the two 90°, although this is much easier when it's out of the car...

For the sake of the cost of the TB gasket, the job is much easier if you remove the TB.

@Ekskaar - I have the remains of my original octopus in the museum. I'd be happy to post the valve out to you if you wish, although if the octopus is old....

 

Wow, could really use that! Thanks a lot for the offer!
Octopus on mine is still in good shape, just a crack in non return valve (wonder how)

 

^^ PM me your address & I'll pop it in a jiffy bag.

 

Great! Thanks! Have sent a PM.

 

I was trying to find some suitable pictures of the octopus' RHS 'Norma' connector in its unlocked and locked positions.

This one from GordoGatCar's post is the clearest i can find of the 'unlocked state, but with the green 'safety' sleeve removed:


The 'teeth' can clearly be seen with the indentation that locates over the ridge formed on the metal pipe to which it attaches. Note the rear of the sliding collar is tight up against the body of the connector.

Like many of us, I destroyed the original connector when I replaced the octopus some years back, so I don't have one as a reference. I tried to take a picture of mine in situ, but the best I could manage is two part images. This really only shows the green 'locked' indicator band that is exposed when the collar has been slid forward:



..and this shows the end of the collar locked over the 'teeth'



There is apparently a tab that needs to be depressed before the collar can be slid to the locking position. It's 9 years or so since I did the job, so I honestly don't remember, other than I didn't encounter any problems. A spray of silicone lubricant on both the pipe end and connector will ease fitting.
While it may have eased assembly at the factory, it is definitely a weak point, particularly given its location close to the RHS cat.
IMO the solution some have followed using a short piece of metal pipe and a short piece of hose is better engineering for those of us not lifting out the motor every weekend...

Hope this may be of some help.

 

Very helpful indeed!
I am no longer looking at a chunk of plastic, and with this explanation I might choose to remove the entire octopus for ease of access instead of replacing check valve in situe.

Cheers!

 

I am going through this "experience" myself at the present and I thought I would throw in another little tidbit since I had the same question as the original poster - how does the RH side norma connector "work" ? I got a new octopus hose and have been trying to figure out how the sleeve slides forward to lock the connector in place without success (this is just bench testing before I jump into the project). With michaelh's help and photos, I believe I have figured out the mystery. The "sleeve" that locks the connector in place won't budge until the connector is slid onto the metal pipe with the ridge on it. In the first photo in michaelh's post #13 at about the 3 o'clock position you can see a little nub that sticks out in the groove where the ridge fits into the connector. There are three of these. These are the bottom of the "fingers" that slide out and lock over the "teeth" in the third photo of post #13. The ridge in the pipe pushes these fingers outward so the sleeve will slide forward. I hope this helps someone.

 

I just did it and that is how it works. There is no "clip" or "tab" I could find on it. I cleaned off the metal pipe with 800 grit sandpaper first , then used liquid soap to lubricate it. (I didn't have any silicon) and pushed it on. It took a good amount of force. The connector attached to the raised ridge on the metal pipe and it was seated. A cover around the connector moved forward to reaveal a green ring confirming the Norma connector is in place. I did not have to remove the old connector but from I have read most people had to break it off.
Good luck on your install and from my experience having a set of hose clamp tools is a lifesaver.

 

I did the RH Norma splice a couple of years ago. Will need to replace the octopus soon. I’m thinking of cutting the Norma off the new octopus and sleeve it. It’s not a matter of if, but when. The plastic Norma is going to fail, being right above the CAT. Anyone else do this?

 

Back in early January I removed the original Norma connector and spliced that connection with the well-known brass barb method. Much better solution....

 

I didn't use the norma connector I just used a plastic insert and c clamp. Much more reliable. I had to cut the old connector off, piece by piece. Awful device.

 

Great info, can ou tell me where did you buy that tool and what is the name and part number for it?