They are hose clamp pliers. Amazon has them:

For once, the US prices are higher than this side of the pond, so I'd shop around.

Your knuckles will thank you...

 

Except for the 2 10mm bolts under the throttle body (at this point I have only one under the throttle body because 1 is enough) this job is pretty quick and easy IF you are willing to remove the entire throttle body and plastic intake I one big lump and set it to the side. Makes life so so much easier.

I replaced my hoses last week.

There are 10 10mm bolts that hold the TB intake to the heads. With something electric they take 3min to remove. Then the LH vac tube where it plugs into lower TB, then 2 gas lines, then assorted plugs and such and the entire top end can be off in 15 - 20 min. Have some new seals for the intake to heads connection - good to replace those anyway.

Anyways, once the top end of the engine is removed everything is right there.

From there, there are 2 8mm (or 10mm) bolts that hold the metal connector tube braket which connects the hose from the front to the Norma and octopus... Once this is removed the Norma connection, and steel tube can be removed for easier working. All of the routing and such is much easier as well...

I destroyed the old Norma connection which is a PITA. Somehow I tricked myself into NOT using a barbed fitting and just running that front hose to the octopus directly. I feel dumb for doing it. The proximity of the plastic Norma to the RH CAT is too close for comfort and it (in my mind) is a matter of time.

I ziptied (like was mentioned) the Norma, raising it some, to the hard-ish AC line above it for a little added clearance...

 

Before starting have a set O these.
Fuel line disconnect tool.
Can be had cheap.

 

Typical. I didn't find this thread of Curtiss' when I was searching the other evening. (Well, it was in the X308 forum, m'lud)
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...94/#post906517

Some good pictures in there, particularly from post #15 on.

 

Nice video ^^^. Now I know all I ever wanted to know about norma connectors. I'm having the same problem with my federal income taxes. It's all so complicated. Must read the manual five times ! It takes twenty reads to figure out a simple problem - well maybe not so simple anymore. Should I just cut the thing off an clamp it, and have done with it ! Are they (norma connectors) really just a shortcut for production costs that will lead to leaks before their time ? Questions for the enlightened and the gurus.

 

Yes indeed, these Norma connectors are lousy shortcuts for the build process on the factory floor. Your best bet is to cut them off and brass hose barb the connection at your earliest convenience....

 

Agree completely! Mine was actually leaking out of the stupid NORMA connector past the o-ring. Had to destroy it to get it off as the coolant leak gummed everything up and it wouldn't budge. Did the replacement with the hose barb, heater hose section and stainless steel worm gear clamps. Hasn't leaked a drop since. Much more peace of mind.

 

Kodos to Michael for donating a heater system non return valve!
Great forum exist thanks to great people ,...with great knowledge (AND great variety of part on shelf )

Thanks Michael!

 

Today I dug up the octopus hose and replaced the cracked non return valve. The valve is deep down but with TB off the car and metal bracket with the many electrical connectors out of the way, it is better accessible than I expected.
Did not even drain the system😱.
lost less then 1 litre. (worked quickly, valve out-in)
Norma connections were okay, I did not touch them and leave them as is.
Will put all back together tomorrow.

 

Ecchhh. Don't ya' just love plastic parts in cooling systems...

 

Bit the bullet today and got the old octopus out, in pieces. Cut it off in several places and then pulled the pieces out. The work was done rather easily thanks to having the throttle body off since before. And having read all the advice in this eminent thread!




New octopus ready to go in

 

Well done....

 

Well done indeed;-).
I guess, like with all such undertakings...
Its a hell of a job, before you actually do it.
Still, it takes a lot of effort but if you summarise the time it takes, then an hour brings a lot of progress usually.
That is why I like to "wrench" on the old Jag as it is sooo satisfying😂.

 

In my case I undertake LOTS of work in the engine bay area, hence many specific tasks get a lot easier thanks to lots of stuff already out of the way. Started with removal of the supercharger to change its pulley to a smaller one. That was one year ago.. one thing led to another.

With the supercharger off I decided to have all bearings and seals inside it replaced. That is done now, only refitting of the SC is pending

There will be a EGR delete. In the slot in the intake elbow where the EGR normally expells its yucky stuff I will instead inject water/meth. Piping is now routed from the trunk but the pump will be purchased later, probably next winter.

I replace almost almost every coolant/heating hose, but unfortunately some of them are still missing at Sng Barratt, waited two months for delivery now.

Both belts will be replaced, serpentine belt replaced yesterday

Probably forgot some stuff I replaced already. The car has been on jackstands for 16 months now

EDIT: Yes forgot some work that I have done during the time the car has been on jackstands:

-Thermostat replaced
-Nav unit delete. Working on a own solution based on a raspberry pi single board computer
-Cd changer delete
-Fitted a temperature sensor to the differential. Will be read from the raspberry pi
-lots of wiring work from the ECU and TCU connectors to read values into the raspberry pi
-Fitted usb port in the arm rest storage compartment

But it all started with a total refurbishment of the rear suspension and subframe, and fitment of a LSD. That project is almost finished now, only hubs and brakes left to fit. But thats another story..

 

I know, of topic but...Wow, great job👍.
I have 10% pulley upgrade as well.
Planning for homemade Water-methanol kit currently.
Will EGR delete not cause codes? It influences pre-calculated mixture map...
Like you, I overhauled the IRS😉. Put poly bushings in.
Did some stuff on these engines in the past...
Replaced head on current AJ-27s

 

As I understand it, on a AJ27 up til year model 2000 you should be able to ditch the EGR without having issues with warning lights at the dash. Time will tell

Interesting you also plan for a DIY water/meth injection, I have been thinking in that direction too even if I havent yet decided which way to go. But ideally I would like to find a pump with a known flow/voltage input chart and do my own programming. But so far I have not found that pump

Maybe we can do a joint venture here?

 

Hi Higgins,
I am a low budget-proofeveryonewrong kind a technician.
What I plan for will not get credits because it is not helping business who make a living of these systems.
So 200psi, injection solenoid, pressure switch kinda simple thing😂.
I will post. And read if you are first👍

 

I know this post is old, but that tool helped a lot. I wanted to say thanks for the tip.