Of course it happened while down! I know and did how to raise it manually but that doesn't get the rear windows up. Hoping it's a fuse but don't know where the darn thing is. (Sorry guys but it's a recent buy and a first Jaguar for me).
I guess I'll tape it up tonight but if I could get some info on fuse panel location and fuse location for this item I would be grateful. I figure more chance of a blown fuse than a bad switch. Any other added info greatly appreciated.

Thanks;

Dave

 

Is the pump making any noise or is everything just dead?

 

Can you hear the lift motor trying to run? The top has to go thru the full cycle before the rear quarter windows will raise. Did the top latch raise? and catch? More info would be helpful for suggestions. Also try lowering it and see if it works. I know that is counter-intuitive, but you'd be surprised.

Just in case, the fuse diagrams are in the stickies, but my money is on some other fault.

 

Start by checking the fluid level of the the pump over the CD changer in the trunk. The level should be between the two horizontal embossed lines on the tank. Low fluid, usually caused by a leak in the system, is the most common cause of top failure.

 

Mr. White:
You got it. Fluid level low. Also got "damp oily stuff" around the area so it sure looks like a fluid loss issue. In the meantime any system for getting the quarter windows up or am I stuck with (gasp) blue tape and plastic?

 

The roof operation is dependent on the proper flow of Hyd fluid and electrical contacts when the fluid is low it will stop the roof operation and not satisfy the electrical components. You say you put the roof up manually and that is fine but the windows will not go up until the two lift rams in the rear are fully extended and locked in place that will not happen when the roof is lifted closed manually. Check the fluid in the tank and make sure the level is above the lower embossed line on the side of the tank first. If it is low fill to the top embossed line then open the roof manually and park the latch and then close the petcock on the tank. Start the car and try to close the roof electrically, remember to hold the button until the operation is completed. If your pump is not running then check the fuse.

 

Well, it's 10:40 PM where I am and for sure the hydraulic fluid has leaked out. No way to get more at this time on Saturday night to refill and get windows up.
Top is secured but all I have around the house is masking tape or duct tape and I KNOW from much experience what a clean-up mess that will make after the sun hits it but looks like no choice. In the meantime, as shops open tomorrow and I can temporarily solve it I can say that the leak is in the vicinity of the tank. Any thoughts on whether it will be a lousy 25 cent o-ring or a major part needing replacement?

Dave

PS-And still loving this car!!

 

See instructions here for one method to raise the rear windows in an emergency: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-closed-71304/

 

Muchos Gracias for the info Steve. For tonite it's taped up. I'll jumper the window relays tomorrow AM and then go after where that pesky leak is. Ain' no fun running with the top up!

 

Well, it looks like the leak is right around the pump unit, if not from it. The fittings where the lines go in are dry but there is fluid around/under the pump itself.
It looks like you need to take the pump out to fill it anyway, right?
I see where one can fill the tank while in place if you have a syringe with hose. I'll see if I can locate one at my auto parts store, Though it looks like pinpointing the leak will mean taking the tank out anyway.

 

No, you can fill reservoir with a small tube reaching from a pump or funnel. The hoses are most likely leaking if the fittings are dry. Why not throw an inexpensive weatherproof cover over the car rather than duct taping or masking it and making a sticky mess to clean up?

 

It's probably one of the hoses at the rear of the pump - you'll need to undo the two fixings (8mm I think) and pull the pump forward to check. If it is one of the rear four hoses they go to the lift rams - the top latch hoses are at the front of the pump.

 

No tarp handy last night-I keep putting off picking up a cover and am now, of course, kicking myself! Checking local auto stores for Pentosin next.
The tank holdown screws are torx heads. Have a full set in my toolbox (at work of course).
This stuff never happens at a convenient time, but at least the rain gods have been taking a break.
If it is, as is most likely a hose fitting at the pump, I sure hope it's not the one to the latch-that's a real pain to change out from all I've seen.
I guess the easiest way to find out if it isn't visually evident once I release the pump is to have someone hit the switch while I look at the results.

 

My ram hoses gave up shortly after the latch hoses were replaced. Just sayin'.. Might be wise to replace all six when you tackle the job. Top Hydraulics have upgraded replacement hoses available and were excellent to deal with.

 

It's much more likely to be a hose fitting than something to do with the pump body. And that's a good thing ($$). Generally, a latch hose is probably more likely than a ram hose, but then a latch hose leak you should see immediately as the fittings are right there next to the petcock. I'm thinking ram hose fitting behind the pump.

Just a heads-up on a possible source of confusion: depending on where the system "thinks" it is in the raise/lower top cycle, when the rocker switch is pressed, a particular hose (latch) or hose pair (rams) may or may not be pressurized. Something to be aware of while watching for a leak.

 

Thanks for all the great input. Found the Pentocin at the Bennett store in Boca and will be heading there and then to the shop for stage 1 diagnostics shortly.

I'm much more a carpenter (actually a cabinetmaker) than a mechanic so if it looks too deep I'll likely turn it over to the pro's. Also a time issue-work is a bit overwhelming right now and I don't want this to turn into a long project.

After owning it for a few months I pulled the dipstick last week and found gold colored oil! Isn't the all syn black? The guy I bought it from used to have it serviced at Naples Jag but when he gave it to a consignment dealer to sell for him he had it serviced at a Chevy dealer? Also found the wrong coolant in the radiator but took care of that one already. (apologies for going off topic)

 

I use Mobil 1 all synthetic in mine. It is honey colored. But don't worry, it is OK to mix them if you cannot change it right now.

 

Update:
To get new hydro fluid in I ended up taking the pump out. Turned out one of the rear lines was pulled out of the fitting at the tank. That would cause a leak, huh?

Pushed it in, filled tank, put it back in place, replugged the electrical, started the engine, hit the roof rocker to up and NOTHING!

Went back and heard it cycling. Waited til it was done and hit the rocker up again. STILL NOTHING!

But all was not lost: Hit the rocker down and voila! Top went down. Hit the rocker up and top and windows went up.

The front lines are obviously new while the back ones are original. I think I'll leave the top up until I replace or get them replaced.

Thanks for the syn oil info. I asked the guy at Bennett about it and he also told me there is lots of gold colored syn oil. I guess I was thinking of when it first came out (Back when I was young) and was black. My other vehicle runs semi and it is gold. I feel so out of date when it comes to mechanics now. Haven't done any of my own work for a huge number of years.

So to make sure I understand: The back 4 are all for the top mechanism and easier to run?

Just checked Tops site-looks like they want 479 for a set of four hoses. Seems steep just for shipping the hoses or am I missing something here?

 

the back or outboard four go to the hydraulic rams and are much easier to replace. The inner 2 go to the latch mechanism at the top of the windshield. Cabriolet Hydraulics in Bradenton or Top Hydraulics offer upgraded hoses for about $600 for the complete set. If you just replace the 4 to the rams around $400. I used Cabriolet Hydraulics - very good to work with. Others have used Top Hydraulics with equal success and support.

 

The back 4 hoses go to the rams and the 2 hoses on the inside at the petcock are for the latch. If you remove the pump use caution when removing the connectors at the top solenoids. You also want to use caution not to bend or pull on the existing good hoses.

Link to hose connections JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource
Link to filling tank JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

I also have a lot of other info on my page related to the roof system. I hope this helps.