that’s what I did when coming thru the radiator support on top. So far even the “cushion” has no abrasion marks.

nylon outer braid appears to be holding up very well.

whatever you use, keep checking it periodically.

Z

 

Thanks Z, good to know

Jack

 

I might use nylon then if it bends a little more and doesn't seem to have any wear problems.

 

I tried my best to measure the length of one of the hoses and it came to 180CM, does that sound about right?

 

I wish I could be helpful, but I neglected to take measurements.

Also, I was making hoses for a remote auto transmission cooler, not the oil cooler. The locations are similar but not exactly the same. So my measurements, if I had them, would likely not be helpful to you.

In your shoes, I would just put a fitting on one end of your bulk hose and thread it thru the desired path to the engine attachment point then you have a very good idea of where to cut the other end..


l mentioned this earlier, but bears repeating, you can avoid a lot grief by getting the proper shears to cut the braided hose vs just using a Dremel cut off wheel like I did.

A lot less mess, less loss of blood, and the job gets done quicker with the metal shears.

Z

 

Point taken, I guess it shouldn't matter if the hose is too long? It would be best to just thread on one side like you said.

 

Maybe I'm measure it wrong? But I measured my oil radiator today at about 370mm or so. No idea why but maybe they changed the oil radiator size?


I think they must have increased the oil cooler size for the 4.2 supercharged cars?

The closest size radiator I can find that will mount is the Setrab 405mm 10 row radaitor, the stock length is 402mm from mount to mount so the 405mm might fit as the bolt holes are slotted I assume to sit can have a little wiggle room.

Setrab PROLINE 10 Row Oil Cooler 405mm Length (Series 9) with M22 Ports

Although it's not the same height but I don't think that will matter all that much, the closest in height would be the 15 row version but because the mount is at the top of the cooler and n ot near the middle like the stock cooler it would likely sit too close tot he road.

 

I think this radiator would be the best fit for my car. Setrab PROLINE 13 Row Oil Cooler 405mm Length (Series 9) with M22 Ports Just hope it doesn't sit too close to the road and take a stone or something. Granted it's cheaper and easier to replace if I needed to in the future compared to the OEM radiator. I will need to measure the depth first though in the morning it's dark now.

 

I'm going to try to use the Setrab 50-613-7612 6 Series ProLine Engine Oil Cooler - 13 Row with M22 Ports
I think it fits my hanger perfect. going to have to measure and see if the extra height will fit. My 2005 XK8 came with a 7 row cooler.

Jack

 

That sounds good if it matches around the same size as you're stock cooler. It is a bit odd that Jaguar went to the trouble of having differnt sizes of oil coolers for these cars but I guess it makes sense if some are supercharged and some not but they seem to have changed the cooler from the 4.0 to the 4.2a fair bit. I should think the superhcarged engines heat the oil up a lot more. Regardless these coolers are a lot cheaper than trying ot find an OEM cooler which costs at least double the price if not more which is frankly a rip off. I have been emailing Swallows and they did say that even matching the same size cooler might not yield the same cooling performance because it depends on the plate sizes and how long the oil takes to pass through the cooler. I should think Setrab is a good brand though so I should think it's OK. It's not like I'm going to track my car anyway. Ont rack I should think it's a lot different though.

Edit: I measured the depth just now and it's 40mm for the stock cooler on my car. The Setrab one is 50mm so it might fit. Probably something I just have to see if it fits in person.

 

[QUOTE=Kuddlesworth;2834693]That sounds good if it matches around the same size as you're stock cooler. It is a bit odd that Jaguar went to the trouble of having differnt sizes of oil coolers for these cars but I guess it makes sense if some are supercharged and some not but they seem to have changed the cooler from the 4.0 to the 4.2a fair bit. I should think the superhcarged engines heat the oil up a lot more. Regardless these coolers are a lot cheaper than trying ot find an OEM cooler which costs at least double the price if not more which is frankly a rip off. I have been emailing Swallows and they did say that even matching the same size cooler might not yield the same cooling performance because it depends on the plate sizes and how long the oil takes to pass through the cooler. I should think Setrab is a good brand though so I should think it's OK. It's not like I'm going to track my car anyway. Ont rack I should think it's a lot different though.

Edit: I measured the depth just now and it's 40mm for the stock cooler on my car. The Setrab one is 50mm so it might fit. Probably something I just have to see if it fits in person.[/QUOTE

A lot of auto engineering is centered around MONEY and nothing else.
In my research I found that What Zray said in another post about how the oil really gets hot while the engine is idling, hence the reason I'm going with a larger cooler. It will at least radiate more heat while at rest.
With little air going over the cooler or pullling hard on hills in slow traffic they heat up quickly.

Jack

 

[QUOTE=JACKP;2834724]Whenever I go up to Scotland some of the roads are very small and the hills can be very steep. The oil gets very hot going up them at slow speeds with a lot of throttle. When idle I can see the oil getting pretty hot as well, I tend to avoide traffic as much as I can which in the countryside is easily done. I've been through Edinburough and Glasgow a few time with a lot of traffic and that was pretty rough on the Jag I think. You could see a lot of heat coming out of the bonnet louvres anyway. But that was before I fixed the intercooler pump which I should think now makes a big difference. You can still see heat coming out though every now and then but the intercooler radiators are nice and cold now (well warm).

 

Hopefully not too far off topic, but if one has an issue with the engine compartment getting too hot, just remove the insulation pad attached to the underside of the hood / bonnet. It is there to keep engine noise from bothering the driver and passengers whilst they enjoy the “Jaguar luxurious ride” ; ha ha.

But It holds in a lot of heat. Removing it has no impact on the painted surface outside. Millions of cars are / were driving around with no such pad and doing just fine. Mine has been removed
for 80,000 mile of driving in SW USA heat with no impact on the cars finish.

and now I can hear the engine better !

Z

 

Sounds like a good idea. When I park mine in it's small room I raise the hood to let the heat out. it raises the temperature of the room quite a bit in the winter.

Jack

 

I thought it was a blanket to smoother an engine fire? Anyway I do actually have some paint damage on my bonnet that looks like heat damage but that may be related to when my intercooler pump wasn't working. The top of the intercooler radiators would get very hot to the touch. Could be anything though I guess.

 

When I removed the insulation pad I had some paint damage (cloudiness) under the pad, but none adjacent to the pad where the heat would be / is more substantial.


In my view the paint damage under the pad is 100% due to abrasion from the pad. It certainly hasn’t changed in the 80,000 miles since I removed the pad.

Z

 

Mine was on the outside of the bonnet. Cracked paint under the clearcoat.

 

Sounds like a bad paint job that finally showed itself.

With millions of cars driving around for decades with no insulating pad installed , and yet they have zero paint damage, it seems unlikely that a quality paint would be impacted by the pad removal.

Not discounting your experience. But I think the root cause to be more complicated than just related to the insulating pad alone, imho , FWIW.

Z

 

I don't disagree.

 

Probably an apples to oranges analogy, but just throwing it out there : I see a lot of inexpensive cars, primarily Kia’s & Hyundai’s, that have clearcoat and base coat damage. Which has been attributed to sun damage.

There are so many ways to go on this subject. I’m totally uneducated on what factors can contribute to paint damage that I shouldn’t be talking. I’m just glad I haven’t had to deal with it.

Z