P0174 / P0171 plan of attack
Ok, right forum this time... 2000 xkr... This is the way my day is going folks. 
*****
Hi,
I got these codes plus a 10 second RP light a few weeks back. I pulled the codes, reset them, and it was fine until this morning when the codes came back.
With the check engine light on but otherwise seemingly ok on the way home, I floored it doing 70mph while going up a hill. The car lurched forward and shuddered hard twice, so I immediately let off the gas. I got the RP warning for about 10-15 seconds but I still babied it the next 20 miles home. I was able to give it some gas a bit later and it was fine but...
I also get a rough idle on the first start of the day.
From a quick look around the web and these forums this is my plan:
Replace IMT O-rings, PCV Hose & Brake Booster
And since I'll be in there: (the pdf link)
Cleaning the Throttle Body, MAFS & Part Load Breather DIY instructions(from another good site - maxperformancecars.com)
Btw, It took me 3 1/2 hours to do a full front brake job on my minivan, and about 6 hours to replace the radiator in my neon. I also tend to have an extra bolt or two after i'm done, And there's a 50% chance I'll have to get the car towed. So...
Does anyone know if a reliable jaguar mechanic other than the dealership in the Seattle area in case things go horribly wrong?
*** and i'm still trying to resolve my username issue, so this might or not be me later ***

*****
Hi,
I got these codes plus a 10 second RP light a few weeks back. I pulled the codes, reset them, and it was fine until this morning when the codes came back.
With the check engine light on but otherwise seemingly ok on the way home, I floored it doing 70mph while going up a hill. The car lurched forward and shuddered hard twice, so I immediately let off the gas. I got the RP warning for about 10-15 seconds but I still babied it the next 20 miles home. I was able to give it some gas a bit later and it was fine but...
I also get a rough idle on the first start of the day.
From a quick look around the web and these forums this is my plan:
Replace IMT O-rings, PCV Hose & Brake Booster
And since I'll be in there: (the pdf link)
Cleaning the Throttle Body, MAFS & Part Load Breather DIY instructions(from another good site - maxperformancecars.com)
Btw, It took me 3 1/2 hours to do a full front brake job on my minivan, and about 6 hours to replace the radiator in my neon. I also tend to have an extra bolt or two after i'm done, And there's a 50% chance I'll have to get the car towed. So...
Does anyone know if a reliable jaguar mechanic other than the dealership in the Seattle area in case things go horribly wrong?

*** and i'm still trying to resolve my username issue, so this might or not be me later ***
I took a quick look at what I believe is the air duct that seems to cause problems and both ends of the duct look ok. no obvious cracks. I believe I have to take this off anyway to inspect the bottom as well?
You should copy the descriptions of the codes into your post as most people do not memorise them. They might understand the problem, but not if they don't know the code that relates to it.
One of the members is a tech in Washington state but he normally hanges out in the X300 section. Read a few threads there and you should recognise him. His first name is Doug. Also try looking in the regional section to find mentions.
One of the members is a tech in Washington state but he normally hanges out in the X300 section. Read a few threads there and you should recognise him. His first name is Doug. Also try looking in the regional section to find mentions.
Your problem is most likely an intake air leak after the MAFS or a problem with the MAFS itself.
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it's dark so the mafs will have to wait til tomorrow.
I did grab some numbers from the car.
Both long term trims at 8% when I rev'd the engine to 3000rpm.
Idle at 1.5%
The air flow measurement seemed to increase relatively uniformly with the acceleration (samples every 5 seconds)
I did grab some numbers from the car.
Both long term trims at 8% when I rev'd the engine to 3000rpm.
Idle at 1.5%
The air flow measurement seemed to increase relatively uniformly with the acceleration (samples every 5 seconds)
Sounds like you've only recently got this vehicle and the faults aren't something that's crept up after lengthy ownership and known maintenance?
You've nailed the descriptions of the two DTC's. Here's the full list of possible causes:
P0171 System Too Lean (Bank 1); P0174 System Too Lean (Bank 2)
Possible Causes:
Air intake leak between MAFS and Throttle
Fuel filter, system blockage
Fuel injector blockage
Fuel pressure regulator failure (low fuel pressure)
Low fuel pump output
HO2S harness wiring fault
Exhaust leak before catalyst
ECM receiving incorrect signal from one or more of ECTS, MAFS, IATS,TPS
When both P0171 and P0174 occur together and the MIL is illuminated, then the ECM:
1. limits engine speed to 3000 rpm
2. inhibits canister purge
3. inhibits EGR
As WhiteXKR advised, air leaks and MAFS are top of the list. You've eliminated air leaks so dirty / faulty MAFS is next. Many members have had to replace MAFS.
Fuel pumps are a known weakness with many reported failures here. Throttle Bodies are another favourite but, unless it only needs cleaning, you're not getting the codes that indicate TPS issues.
Graham
You've nailed the descriptions of the two DTC's. Here's the full list of possible causes:
P0171 System Too Lean (Bank 1); P0174 System Too Lean (Bank 2)
Possible Causes:
Air intake leak between MAFS and Throttle
Fuel filter, system blockage
Fuel injector blockage
Fuel pressure regulator failure (low fuel pressure)
Low fuel pump output
HO2S harness wiring fault
Exhaust leak before catalyst
ECM receiving incorrect signal from one or more of ECTS, MAFS, IATS,TPS
When both P0171 and P0174 occur together and the MIL is illuminated, then the ECM:
1. limits engine speed to 3000 rpm
2. inhibits canister purge
3. inhibits EGR
As WhiteXKR advised, air leaks and MAFS are top of the list. You've eliminated air leaks so dirty / faulty MAFS is next. Many members have had to replace MAFS.
Fuel pumps are a known weakness with many reported failures here. Throttle Bodies are another favourite but, unless it only needs cleaning, you're not getting the codes that indicate TPS issues.
Graham
Yeah, this car was my uncle's. I got it about 10 months ago at 42k miles. I just hit 49k so it hasn't been driven too much, though I will not deny going ahem, fast...
When I first got it, I had to do a full front brake job, plus replace the supercharger and regular serpentine belts.
My uncle did stop going to the dealer because he said they insisted on fixing things that weren't wrong, like leaks and the like. I'm wondering if they actually just wanted to replace the plastic guides and the water pump? So should I send my uncle the repair bill? hahhah.
When I first got it, I had to do a full front brake job, plus replace the supercharger and regular serpentine belts.
My uncle did stop going to the dealer because he said they insisted on fixing things that weren't wrong, like leaks and the like. I'm wondering if they actually just wanted to replace the plastic guides and the water pump? So should I send my uncle the repair bill? hahhah.
Since your long term trims are well within range of setting a 'typical' lean condition CEL and code, i'm going to go with the system being lean only on hard throttle, meaning your 2nd fuel pump (meant for those larger demands) is kaput. Research the xkr fuel pump threads and you'll see many common symptoms with yours.
When my CEL light appeared for the very same codes on both banks, my long term trims were over 15% (and viewing these while sitting in idle in the garage)...thats the trigger for the CEL, in addition to occurring either two or three consecutive drive cycles. My particular problem was related to a leaking fuel pressure regulator...which your 4.0 engine does not have. BUT, not enough fuel...same results.
When my CEL light appeared for the very same codes on both banks, my long term trims were over 15% (and viewing these while sitting in idle in the garage)...thats the trigger for the CEL, in addition to occurring either two or three consecutive drive cycles. My particular problem was related to a leaking fuel pressure regulator...which your 4.0 engine does not have. BUT, not enough fuel...same results.
by the way, be careful with that little gasket under the TB, if you want to take it off for a good cleaning, stop by the dealer and pick up the $5 gasket to replace it. They get squished and won't rebound after awhile.
I've had this on my XKR for some time, until recently, now FIXED! Here's what I did:
1. Checked air intake tube - ok
2. Replaced fuel filter
3. Replaced EGR valve and tube - tube was broken. This fixed my EGR code.
.... still had the occasional 171/174 code (maybe once every three or four drives). The fix? One day I stopped by Chevron and filled up with 94. Haven't seen the code in about 3 months.
4. 94 @ Chevron
1. Checked air intake tube - ok
2. Replaced fuel filter
3. Replaced EGR valve and tube - tube was broken. This fixed my EGR code.
.... still had the occasional 171/174 code (maybe once every three or four drives). The fix? One day I stopped by Chevron and filled up with 94. Haven't seen the code in about 3 months.
4. 94 @ Chevron
before bringing it to the mechanic I found a bunch of oil in the air duct and passenger side breather tube. So I cleaned the throttle body, cleaned off the half covered in oil mass air flow sensor, and cleaned the tube and air duct the best i could. (soaked it in the bathtub, air dry, etc)
ok... and the call from the mechanic just now.
1) cam covers need to be replaced - plastic of some sort. original jaguar install. ( 99% sure thats what he said.. I got lost at the estimate
)
2) serpentine belt reroute to save the superchargers bearings (bearings are otherwise perfect)
3) 2 hoses weeping. to get to them have to pull the supercharger...ffs... might as well replace all the hoses anyway. I did have a possible coolant leak anyway. that could explain it.
4) spark plugs most likely bad, if so, replace them (possibly causing the oil in the air ducts, maybe the lean condition as well) not sure yet.
Just over 4 grand.
ffs.
at least my hyundai is under warranty, and my subaru just doesn't give a damn.
Ouch!
ok... and the call from the mechanic just now.
1) cam covers need to be replaced - plastic of some sort. original jaguar install. ( 99% sure thats what he said.. I got lost at the estimate
)2) serpentine belt reroute to save the superchargers bearings (bearings are otherwise perfect)
3) 2 hoses weeping. to get to them have to pull the supercharger...ffs... might as well replace all the hoses anyway. I did have a possible coolant leak anyway. that could explain it.
4) spark plugs most likely bad, if so, replace them (possibly causing the oil in the air ducts, maybe the lean condition as well) not sure yet.
Just over 4 grand.
ffs.
at least my hyundai is under warranty, and my subaru just doesn't give a damn.
Ouch!
R&r cam covers & inspect secondary timing chain tensioners
replace spark plugs (overlap time with r&r cam covers
replace all belts
replace heater hoses includes pressure test cooling system & inspect for leaks
replace spark plugs (overlap time with r&r cam covers
replace all belts
replace heater hoses includes pressure test cooling system & inspect for leaks
did you also clear the part-load breather tube in the drive side cover? Clogged will blow oil in many places it's not supposed to go. There's a pdf writeup in the FAQ in this subforum.
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