After sorting out my differential strut bushing issues (see other thread), I lifted the subframe for the last time and bolted it in. I won't lie, it was great feeling of relief to lower the motorcycle jack and see the the subframe in place on its own. Still have some work to do before the car is ready for the road, but it's a lot more fun now!

Happy to report that I finally got to take the cat out for test drive and the refurbished suspension felt perfect, so the worries I had about switching to poly bushings were completely unfounded.
I managed to goof up the hand brake adjustment so the rear wheels have to come off again sometime soon, but that's a minor issue, I know what I did wrong.

I did have a small scare when I first started up, got both ABS and adaptive suspension faults, which I expected since I had run the engine warm at one point while the wheel speed sensors and CATS were still unplugged. What I did not expect was that my iCarsoft would not clear these codes, which made me worry that I had somehow damaged the wires and that the faults were actually real. But the Torque app cleared the codes right away and they did not come back after my test drive. Anybody else have trouble clearing old codes with the iCarsoft?

Some lessons learnt from this job:
- Replacing the bushings in the pendulum and the wishbone tie bracket was not necessary and it would have saved me a ton of effort if I had left them alone. But I had obviously no way of knowing the condition of the bushings beforehand.

- As many pictures as I took while tearing the subframe apart, things would have been easier if I had taken even more, including videos. Simon at projectsinthebarn was kind to help by sending me a few pictures of components that weren't shown in detail in his disassembly videos.

- I should have put studs in the exhaust brackets before lifting the axle in place so that the exhaust mounts could be bolted in place using nuts instead of the original M8 bolts. Many hours were wasted messing around trying to get those bolts back in place.

- There are wires that run between the fenders and the strut mounting plates, which are at risk of snagging or getting pinched when the struts are moved in and out of place. I had to constantly check on them while lowering and lifting the axle to make sure that didn't happen.

- I should not have bolted the anti-roll bar to the drop links until the struts were in place, since you pretty much have to be able to move the wishbones individually to get the holes in the strut mounting plate to line up with the studs.

- One of my biggest fears was that I'd get carried away and forget to disconnect / reconnect the CATS, and it ALMOST happened on re-assembly. What a pain that would have been...

- Although it's not exactly convenient as a one-person job, it was not very difficult either. I never had to call on a buddy to come over and help. Lifting the axle off and back onto the jack to get to the underside bolts is probably the biggest challenge for a single worker. If arms, legs, and back are not in decent shape, help is definitely needed with that.