Hi Guys, As you may recall I had my 1998 XK8's rear end go bad 2 weeks ago. It is at the shop with a new/reconditioned rear end and the mechanic is planning to install it early this week.

As I plan this out I can't help but wonder if this is a perfect opportunity to replace worn bushings while he is in there. I am a big fan of Power Flex, the only two sets of rear bushings they sell, besides the anti roll bar ones I've already done, are:

Rear Panhard Rod Bushings

Rear Beam Bushings

Now I have no idea how close these are or are not to the working area for a rear end replacement. Does anyone know if they are going to be super easy access for the mechanic during this job? If they are maybe I can negotiate getting them installed for small $$. But like I said I have no idea.

Right now I'm trying to test and coordinate this opportunity. I have an email into PowerFlex to see if they can ship today should I approve. With your input I can go down and speak to the mechanic, so please do share what you know about how easy / how much easier it will be to access & replace these during the differential installation.

Not to complicate things, but I suppose it is pertinent: The price of these 2 bushings is the same as the price for 2 new rear shocks (95,000 miles on old, lower shock bush a bit worn to the eye). I say this because it may be obvious to one with experience that one job might have way more impact than the other (replace bushes, or replace shocks). I certainly can't afford to do both right now.

Thanks a bunch,

John

 

If by panhard rod you are referring to the differential strut, I have not read of anyone needing to replace them, nor the pendulum bushings.

I did buy a pair of subframe bushings, but when I took the subframe out they appeared to be in excellent condition at 95K mi, so they're still on the shelf.

At that time I replaed the shock mounts and spring isolators, and recently the lower shock mounts, which are now available for about $12 ea on ebay.

Access to all of these components is either part of removing the diff. or made easier when it's out.

 

RJ, thanks mate. It's beginning to look like it is not worth the $$$ time and effort to schedule a replacement. Your history helped me a lot here.

Fwiw, I was using the terminology from the Powerflex website they have those plus the anti sway bushes for the rear.

 

I would certainly do the anti sway both front and rear. If you ask for the free sng barratt catalog you will have some good drawings of many parts with the part numbers and names. I often have to check for the jag names of various parts.

 

If your rear end is already out, no reason not to do it.

Getting the old subframe bushes out is PITA, the rest are easy.

 

The Top Shock mount foam can crumble and the Large shock washer clunk against the top of the top hat. New bilsteins come with all new foam and a new boot.
To get present and future clunks out of the system, new rear shocks all the way.

 

RaceDiagnostics, You may very well be right, but the coordination of getting hold of the parts, the mechanics schedule, and my irritation of driving an old rusty Ford Brono in the interim put this one out of my reach. They started the job this afternoon, hopefully will be done tomorrow morning.

The photos you shared could not have been more clear, thank you for taking the time. Looking at your photos makes me think "wow could have changed the shocks in about 10 minutes too" , well you know what I mean. Probably better that I save the $$ for christmas presents anyway. Thanks for your help.

At least I can hope this string will help the next guy do a better job of planning and understanding this whole thing. You know what? I'm sure it will so at least something good came out of this whole thing.

John

 

Ungn, We must have posted at same time. Thank you too. I do think the new shocks are next on my list. I appreciate it. thanks, John

 

Replacing the shocks in the future makes sense if you don't already have the upper and lower mounts. The spring isolators also.

Ask you mechanics to follow the procedure used by Bob Goss (motorcarman): Remove the four bolts securing the subframe to the diff., pry the frame down until the springs can drop. The calipers should be unbolted and hung from the stops and the shafts rotated to allow the hub carrier to drop. I had the shocks out in 1 1/2 hrs working alone.

 

New Bilsteins come with all of the upper mount hardware/boot and there is no lower mount hardware...just a bolt.

My 1996 vintage spring Isolators were in good shape. I put in new but it could have gone many more miles. All of my shock bushings were visibly worn and the top shock bushings were missing on one side and crumbling on the other.

The top mount isn't inspect-able so they could be good one day and clunking on every bump the next day.