XJ XJ6 / XJR6 ( X300 ) 1995-1997

Upper Shock Bushings Front and Rear

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 05-27-2017, 05:11 PM
97XJR-Flausa's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Florida
Posts: 42
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Upper Shock Bushings Front and Rear

I want to replace both the front and rear upper shock bushings on my 97 XJR. I've gone the the various DIY's on how to replace the shocks themselves but I am wondering if I have to remove the whole shock as well as the calipers and rotors to just replace the upper bushing? I'm not really worried about the fronts but I am concerned about the lower bolts on the rears. Has anyone done just the bushings without having to remove the brake hardware and the shocks themselves? Could be a relatively simple job or a huge job in terms of time and effort.

If I have to remove everything then maybe I should just replace the shocks.

Any help would be greatly appreciated before I dive into this. Thanks
 
  #2  
Old 05-27-2017, 08:44 PM
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Adelaide Stralia
Posts: 27,309
Received 10,312 Likes on 6,822 Posts
Default

Been many, many years since I did the rears on my X300.

The shocker spring tophat etc all must come out to do the rear tops. NOT a simple task, but doable and very time consuming.

I actually used info from a write up here way back then, but I cannot find it at the moment.

Fronts easy enough, but care still needed or the shockers can be bent. Just finished a mates R yesterday. Took 4 hours both sides. The RH easy enough access, the LH, MONGREL access.
 
  #3  
Old 05-28-2017, 04:01 AM
countyjag's Avatar
Veteran Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Scotland
Posts: 1,067
Received 514 Likes on 366 Posts
Default

As Grant said, the fronts can be fiddly on the left side, as you need to remove the expansion tank for access to the top nut. When refitting, check you have the various washers etc correctly orientated, as it is easy to get them mixed up.
The rears are a bigger task, although very doable. There are basically two methods, the "by the book" method, and the A frame method. I have only ever used the A frame method, and chose it because you do not need to disturb the brakes or hubs, and do not need to compress the springs in situ (which isnt easy on the X300). Basically, by removing the A frame, the wishbones can swing down far enough to enable the entire spring/shock assembly to be removed from the car intact. It worked well for me, more than once, and is described in detail elsewhere on this thread, and online by someone called black onyx. As I said, a doable job, but not a 5 minute job.
When you have the shocks off, I would strongly recommend you replace the bottom bushes too. These cars are sore on these bushes, and unless they have already been replaced within the last 5000 miles or so, they will already be some way consumed. Saves you having to remove the shocks again for some time to come.
 
The following users liked this post:
Grant Francis (05-28-2017)
  #4  
Old 05-28-2017, 09:40 PM
al_roethlisberger's Avatar
Veteran Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Sanford, NC
Posts: 3,749
Received 672 Likes on 495 Posts
Default

As noted, there unfortunately is no way to replace the rear shocks, much less the upper rear shock bushings without taking the entire shock, spring and "top hat" assembly out. Might was well "do it all" while you're in there, taking care of the various rubber spacers, spring isolator, etc ...


Some links:

Rear shock, standard method with spring compressors:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ent-how-62143/


Rear shock, A-frame drop method:

Tech


Front shocks:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...market-109819/


.
 
  #5  
Old 05-29-2017, 10:54 AM
97XJR-Flausa's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Florida
Posts: 42
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Thanks for the great info and links. Where can I get the torque specs needed for when I am installing the new shocks?
 
  #6  
Old 05-29-2017, 02:25 PM
countyjag's Avatar
Veteran Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Scotland
Posts: 1,067
Received 514 Likes on 366 Posts
Default

At the risk of striking a controversial note, just do everything up tight. I am not aware of any particular sensitivities, and I just tried to replicate what I felt taking them off. Heresy, I know but.....
 
  #7  
Old 05-29-2017, 08:39 PM
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Adelaide Stralia
Posts: 27,309
Received 10,312 Likes on 6,822 Posts
Default

Agreed,

Nice and tight, as versus stupid tight.

My torque wrench has more cobwebs than an old barn.

Common sense kicks in mostly. You get that "feels right" moment.

Engine stuff etc, do it by the book, the rest lives on.
 
  #8  
Old 05-29-2017, 08:41 PM
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Wise County,TX
Posts: 11,893
Received 7,879 Likes on 4,763 Posts
Default

You can save HOURS by just removing the 4 bolts from the trapezoidal plate on the bottom of the suspension cage/diff and BEND IT DOWN to allow the lower control arms to DROP and the dampers/springs will fall out.

I have written up posts about this and uploaded pics of the bolts to be removed.

It should take 2 to 3 hours using this method.

bob
 
The following users liked this post:
Grant Francis (05-30-2017)
  #9  
Old 05-30-2017, 03:14 AM
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Adelaide Stralia
Posts: 27,309
Received 10,312 Likes on 6,822 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by motorcarman
You can save HOURS by just removing the 4 bolts from the trapezoidal plate on the bottom of the suspension cage/diff and BEND IT DOWN to allow the lower control arms to DROP and the dampers/springs will fall out.

I have written up posts about this and uploaded pics of the bolts to be removed.

It should take 2 to 3 hours using this method.

bob
Bugga, that dropped the penny.

Thats exactly how I did mine, thanks again Bob.
 
The following users liked this post:
motorcarman (05-31-2017)
  #10  
Old 05-30-2017, 07:24 AM
Scotlad's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Midwest
Posts: 587
Received 131 Likes on 89 Posts
Default

There is a great video on U Tube on how to change the rear shocks on a Jaguar X300. The mechanic does it in under 22minutes per side! He does have the car on a lift however.
 
  #11  
Old 05-31-2017, 10:58 AM
97XJR-Flausa's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Florida
Posts: 42
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Motorcarman - do you have the pics that you mentioned in your post regarding the 4 bolts to remove? This would save me from having to drop the entire A-frame correct? I'm just one person without a lift. Thanks
 
  #12  
Old 05-31-2017, 11:30 AM
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Wise County,TX
Posts: 11,893
Received 7,879 Likes on 4,763 Posts
The following users liked this post:
XJRengineer (05-31-2017)
  #13  
Old 05-31-2017, 12:54 PM
97XJR-Flausa's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Florida
Posts: 42
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Thank you
 

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:28 AM.