OK, now the fronts are complete and I have bought a new 2 1/2lb hammer to replace the one I wore out encouraging the front rotors to come off, I am ready to do the rears. Somewhere, I read that there is something about the rear inboards that is somehow more challenging than the front job. I can't find that post, and nore is there anything specific in the DIY section, other than a photo. I would appreciate if anyone cares to advise where the punjii pit is located. Thanks.

 

No worries about inboard brakes on the XK8 or XKR. I remember them on my old XJ6. My rotors and wheels were stuck on my XK8 also. I put a coat of grease on the mating surfaces and copper grease (tiny bit) on the lug nuts. Brakes are no biggie.

 

Good news then. Thanks!
I had the idea that perhaps it was an access issue that existed on the rear that wasn't as bad on the front, but I can't remember where I saw the comment. As long as the same possibility for jacking the rotor from the back whilst torching and clubbing the rotor whilst spraying PB, I should be OK!

 

Only issue could be the Emergency Brake shoes are expanded in the drums. These can be adjusted back loose to enable the rotors/drums assembly to be removed w/o too much problem. Since my front rotors came of easily, the rear were just a little more work, but the shoes were not close enough to to cause any problem. there is a small access hole in the rotor/drum to loosen them if needed.

 

As on the front, the caliper bracket bolts to the spindle are secured with LOCKTITE and can be a bear to remove. On the front you can turn the wheel for access. In the rear you can't so the leverage to loosen/ remove these bolts can be difficult. Like you, I'm doing the rears Monday as well. Ran out of daylight last Tuesday. I'm thinking the rear of the car must be jacked up higher to get a good pull on the ratchet with a cheater pipe on its handle. I have an air impact wrench but a room mate sleeps during the day so turning on the compressor is not possible. I might do this at a friends house with the impact gun instead. Every article I've read says NEVER lube lug studs! Dry threads, dry lug nuts and they must be torqued to manufactures specs.

 

Guys, be safe and be sure to put a block or brick on both sides of the front wheels. They have nothing to stop them from moving as you pull on the rear.
Have a safe and happy New Year.

Wayne

 

All of that makes sense: less access to those 140 FT Lb caliper bolts means more work. Locktite AND 140 FTLB? Talk about belt and braces / suspenders! 100% on the wheel blocking. I have a pair of the wheel chock devices, a short piece of railroad rail (used at other times as an anvil, but wonderfully effective as a wheel chock, when turned on its side, base against tire) and some blocks of wood besides.
May I assume that the handbrake access hole allow one to operate an adjuster cam like my MG?