Hi John,

No core return necessary. They took about two weeks (or less) to arrive.

What do we do with the old ones then? I don't know. I just junked the first one. I'll see if anyone on the forum wants this one before I dump it as well. It's a waste of a very expensive component for sure, but I have no use for it.

 

Thank you chillyphilly for great description, looks very helpful...do you by the way have partsnumber for the use only bolts for reassembly?

Thanks in advance

Ixller8

 

The big hub nut that requires the 27mm socket is JZN100035. A year or two back I paid 25 or 30 USD for one.

The Jaguar Workshop Manual says to also replace the rear brake caliper mounting bolts (2 per caliper). I believe there are a few different caliper bolt types and therefore p/n’s depending on model. My 2005 R package XKR required p/n C2C6745, about 4 USD each from the dealer.

 

Flat6, thanks for the note. I forgot all about the caliper bolts' directive to replace.

John

 

I didn't replace my caliper bolts, just put some new blue loctite on them, Jag specify to use new ones for many different bolts that only need loctite applying.

 

Yep, just bought them from SNG - 21 pounds a piece:-)

 

Done that many times...never a problem!

 

Just a little caretaking on this excellent thread. Just finished my 3rd replacement, made the same PITA mistake again. Nothing big, but it will slow you down for a bit trying to figure out what went wrong.

Orientation of rubber seals. The outer seal looks like it fits over the lip on the inside of the hub.(spring side of seal facing outwards towards street side of hub) In fact it fits perfectly.

Problem is, the hub will not sit properly inside wheel carrier. It sticks out too much.

Seat the outside rubber seal on the inside of the hub so that the spring side of it faces the carrier, its receptacle.

The inner rubber seal spring side faces the street side of the carrier.

Just figured someone else might run into this someday. Hell, I'll probably pull this string up again in a few years when I do the next one.

John

 

so what I first though was a faulty preload noise in diff turned out to be rear right hand wheel bearing(which was a relief...),

are now at half way point(they do make things complicated with the handbrakes in UK...),

have knocked out the oem races(Timken) out of the housing and have new SKF bearing that's supposed to be a direct fit. I measured the outer race's depht, which is: Timken = 13.95mm, SKF = 14.85mm,

as mentioned in this thread the two distance peices's are good to go with new bearings and no adjustment is required for the smaller one, but since my new SKF races are 1mm longer, this must change the equation?

also I could not see any flange on the inside of housing acting as "stop" for the outer race(can't remember how it looked at the inner race), I did see a small flange(that the race had slid over upon install) in the housing that lined up with outside of outer race, anyone done the replacement with non Timken bearings? if so how to get the free play tolerance?

 

have had 2nd look at it, I was simply measuring the wrong bearing race, SKF & Timken have the same lenght for the outer race...

but as how far the outer/inner race is supposed to be punched into the housing? , se pic below, the outer race is about 13,95mm in depht, the bottom of housing is about 21mm(where one normaly would expect the race to be finally seated in housing), so from bottom of race to bottom of housing there is about 7mm gap when installed(topside of race flush with the small flange halfway down, this is where the old bearing sat before punching it out),

I have read here that the bearing punch in procedure is straightforward, ie that one hears when its seated properly, I really cant imagine how, are the housing tapered so it only goes so far?

also, in the workshop manual it says something about loctite 270(the strong type lock) for this operation, I supposed that was going onto the halfshaft-splines/hub? from reading here the splines should be left ungreased/unloctited??

for punching out, i used a round mandrel, for the sharp edges of that, just put some duct tape around the top and it wont find its way into the housing alloy

top of outer race lines up with flange halfway down

21mm

 

S,
I always use a press, but that's irrelevant. The race will go in all the way to the raised flange. IOW zero gap between new bearing race and protruding flange.

I'm sure there is a flange to stop the outer bearing cup (race). While I can't picture it in my mind, nothing else would have stopped my press from installing it. , and I can picture that point at which it was seated.

Locktite is often used on the hubs axle nut. The dam things are not to be reused, and it creates a scary drive while it ruins your new bearing if it loosens (ask me how I know;-).

John

 

When torquing the axel nut, I didn’t do it with the wheel off the ground. I didn’t want that stress transmitted through the universal joints. Pop the center cap out of the wheel and mount the wheel on the lugs. Nuts can be finger tight. Lower the tire to the ground and then torque the nut “through” the wheel. You might need to place the socket on the nut before mounting the tire if the wheel’s center opening isn’t large enough.

To be honest, I may have been a bit **** about those stresses.

 

Thanks John, yes, your'e right, did just now have a look again...the distance btw the innermost housing race seats matches(within 0.1-0.2mm) the combined lenght of the 2 distances that goes between the bearings, so will punch those in next weekend, dont know how I got to the previous conclusion....but clearly wrong where the race was seated(perhaps it crept out while punching out the hub)

yeah, have new awful expensive nuts to go when the time comes, car is going into hibernation and some fixing things up period for the next 6 months or so,

Cheers!

 

Great! Glad to hear you figured her out. Let us know how it goes. (And think of how much money you just saved doing it yourself)

 

Did get them in there finally, did try to make a puller for the races, it worked but had to crappy steel bars(low tensile strenght) so they just budged halfway in, so ordered(aliexpress, 23pcs wheel bearing kit) a puller/pulley toolkit, se pic below, these things are a alternative to using a hydraulic press, and it worked quite good, did not use more than 50-60Nm(with a adjustable spanner & all friction surfaces oiled(not the races..)) to pull them in, reasonable good feeling as when and where the races "bottomed out", the outer seal was knocked in with one of the "discs" aswell, for inner seal I used the ABS disc as guide/punch

23pcs wheel bearing toolkit, about 50 EUR(incl shipping withing EU)

pulling inner race in with old race as guide

pulling inner race, all oiled up and ready to go

outer race flush with housing,

pulling outer race in with old race as guide